Here they study chess at school, drink salty tea in the morning, and say prayers while turning an iron wheel. Religion, food and culture in Kalmykia are so different from the norms familiar to Russians that it’s worth at least once to look at it with your own eyes, says Rais Gabitov from Bashkiria in his LiveJournal.
At the same time, Kalmyks speak such pure Russian that they are even hired as announcers on central television. Incredibly, this is not somewhere near Mongolia, but in the south of the European part of Russia, between the Rostov and Astrakhan regions.
1. The largest Buddhist temple in Europe
This temple is called "Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni", it is in Elista, the capital of Kalmykia, consecrated in 2005.
It looks extremely exotic. They say that tourists traveling from Siberia to the Black Sea take pictures in front of it and post it on Instagram as if they were in Thailand).
2. Buddhism
Kalmyks are Buddhists. I think it's cool. A very ancient and beautiful religion.
For example, a prayer wheel, "khurde". Each of them contains thousands of pieces of paper with prayers, and when you spin them, you pray to God many hundreds of thousands of times. You need to take the handle and walk in a circle three times.
3. Chess is a folk sport
If Buddhism is the religious faith of the Kalmyks, then chess is a secular faith.
On the central square of Elista, townspeople play chess. Chess is one of the school subjects (!) in Kalmykia.
But most likely, the popularity of this sport is associated with the personality of Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, who headed Kalmykia from 1993 to 2010. Kirsan became the republic's chess champion in the 9th grade, and in 1995 he headed FIDE, the international chess federation.
4. City Chess - chess city
Kirsan Ilyumzhinov is the same person who managed to realize Ostap Bender’s dream and build “New Vasyuki” in the Volga steppe.
Many personal belongings of Michal Tal, the eighth world champion with eight fingers. Tal had 8 fingers from birth (so it’s very easy to remember what kind of world champion he was).
I visited Kalmykia with the Volga Expedition.
5.
"Kalmyk does not eat grass"
Almost everyone who visited Kalmykia first of all advised trying the local food.
The cuisine of the Kalmyks, who were cattle breeders and nomads, is meat and dairy. Kalmyks make lamb dishes best.
Cure. Only a master can make this dish. The sheep is butchered, its meat is placed in its stomach with seasonings, it is buried in an earthen hole and a fire is made on top. After many, many hours, lamb stewed in its own juices becomes tender, like stew.
There is also makhan sheltyagan and shulun- boiled lamb and broth, as well as final tour- a dish made from entrails. You can try all this in the Oirat cuisine restaurant “Legend”.
Remember: Dzhomba - tea with milk, butter, salt and nutmeg. Börigi- something like dumplings with lamb and wrestlers- flatbreads fried in boiling oil. This is incredibly delicious.
I was given Kalmyk tea, which I will brew in a larger cauldron and treat to friends in nature.
6. Steppe
A flat space with a straight line to the horizon, filled with the dry smells of burnt grass and tumbleweeds. The steppe is the place where Kalmyks live, an integral symbol of the internal, archetypal awareness of the nation.
7. Tulips blooming
8. Monument to Ostap Bender
9. Lonely Tree in the Steppe
I was personally convinced of this. I drove for half a day in 35 degree heat from Volgorad to Elista, I was very tired and on nerves. Touching the poplar and being silent, I felt the extraordinary calm and strength that emanated from its rough bark. It was at this moment that I realized that Kalmykia would become one of the most amazing discoveries of the expedition.
10. Kalmyks
Kalmyks are a very ancient people. Kalmyks - Western Mongols (Oirats) - formed part of the Mongol Empire and were the very famous warriors who once conquered half the world.
But there were also a lot of troubles. Kalmyks were divided several times (some still live in China)
The Kalmyks had four genocides in history! The latter, most recently, during the war, when Stalin deported most Kalmyks to Siberia in such carriages. A third of the Kalmyks died.
Famous modern Kalmyks. Do you recognize anyone?
And this is a survey that I conducted on my social networks.
Acknowledgments
My sincere thanks to Vitaly Bokov, who told me the inspiring story of the Oirats and Buddhism, the wonderful Khongor Marilov, director of Kalmyk television, Arkady Sharmanzhinov for the photographs and Kermen Manzhieva, thanks to whom I fell in love with Kalmykia even before I visited it)
And, of course, my deep gratitude to Kermen Utyasheva from the Megafon-Volga region company, who organized meetings and excursions for me.
See you again, friends!
You can get to the Republic of Kalmykia both by land and by sky. Kalmykia is connected with other Russian cities by several highways - for example, the highway from Volgograd, Stavropol, Mineralnye Vody etc. The section of the Elista - Divnoye railway is connected to the network of the rest railways, but most likely you will have to travel by train through Stavropol, or by bus or plane.
The bus from Moscow to Elista takes about 24 hours, the one-way fare is 1200 RUB. Prices on the page are as of November 2019.
Ruslan Airlines operates flights from Moscow to Elista, but it is very difficult to catch them, so you may also have to fly through Stavropol, and from there to Kalmykia by train or bus. There is only one airport in Kalmykia - in Elista, with flights from Moscow, Mineralnye Vody and Rostov-on-Don.
Search for flights to the Republic of Kalmykia
Weather in the Republic of Kalmykia
The climate in Kalmykia is far from resort-like and is characterized as sharply continental. Summers here are hot and dry, and winters have little snow and are often frosty. On average, the January temperature in Kalmykia is about -7...9 degrees in the south of the republic and about -10...12 degrees in the southwest. In the northern regions, cold weather occurs in winter with temperatures as low as thirty-five degrees. But there are quite a lot of sunny days a year here - 280. average temperature July in Kalmykia - +23...25 degrees. Maximum heat is about +40...44 degrees.
Sights, entertainment and excursions of Kalmykia
It must be admitted that the nature of Kalmykia is not very diverse - mainly the famous “Kalmyk steppes”, but this does not mean that there are no attractions here. Nevertheless, it is better to start getting acquainted with this steppe country from its capital - small, but beautiful city with the poetic name Elista. The city was founded at the end of the 19th century, and today it is home to only about 100 thousand people. The city itself is a unique phenomenon, rising in the steppe.
Elista is a city with a Buddhist flavor, clean and cozy streets and incredible buildings. For example, here is the largest seven-level Buddhist temple in Europe, the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni, with the largest Buddha statue on the continent, 12 meters high!
The Golden Abode houses many relics, such as the clothes of the 14th Dalai Lama and the hair of Lama Tsongkhapa. On the first level there is a museum, a conference room and a library, on the second there is a statue of Buddha covered with gold leaf and inlaid with diamonds, above there are private reception rooms, the residence of the head of Buddhists, the residence of the 11th Dalai Lama and utility rooms, and on the very top floor there is a meditation room where only monks have access.
Elista - Kalmyk khurul
Big Yashalta Lake
Among the natural attractions of Kalmykia, one cannot fail to mention the unique Big Yashalta Lake. By medicinal properties it can only be surpassed, probably, by the Dead Sea. And despite the fact that around the lake there are not resort towns, but steppe and feather grass, a large number of Russians come to it to improve their health - from the treatment of respiratory diseases to diseases of reproductive function and for the purpose of rejuvenation. Moreover, a modern treatment center was recently built here, today it is one of the best on the list of Russian health resorts.
In terms of healing properties, Lake Yashalta can probably surpass only the Dead Sea.
Reserve "Black Lands"
Between the Volga and Kuma, the Kalmyk nature reserve “Black Lands” is located with an area of 121 thousand hectares.
Since 1990, these lands have been considered a state biosphere reserve for the purpose of preserving unique nature these lands from environmental disaster, for example, to save the saiga population.
Here, on the territory of the reserve, there is Lake Manych-Gudilo, where the wintering and nesting grounds of swans, pelicans, bustards and other rare birds are protected. There are 12 islands on the territory of the lake, traveling through which you can admire the birds of the reserve and the beautiful landscapes of wildlife.
City Chess
If you are a fan of modern attractions, then be sure to visit the City Chess area. The prototype of this unique area is the project of New Vasyuki by Ostap Bender, the hero of the novel “The Twelve Chairs”. It was built in 1998 as a complex for the XXXIII World Chess Olympiad. The Olympics have passed, and “City of Chess” still delights residents and guests of the city. In the center of the complex there is a huge Chess Palace, where, in fact, the Olympiad was held. Today it houses gyms, offices and cafeterias. The area of the complex is built up with small cottages, which creates the impression that you are not in the capital of Kalmykia, but in European town with cute houses and well-kept lawns. The area is decorated interesting sculptures, and there is even a small Orthodox Church of St. George the Victorious, which fits perfectly into the architectural mood of the complex.
Tsagan Aman
Almost 300 km from Elista there is an amazing place called Tsagan Aman. In ancient times, it served as a traditional outpost for crossing the Volga for the Scythians, Pechenegs, Cumans and other peoples who inhabited these lands, and was called the “White Gate”. There is also a beautiful temple here - the Tsagan-Aman Khurul, established in the early 90s next to the house in which Lama Tugmyud-Gavdzhi once lived and served. This temple is a beautiful example of Buddhist architecture with an elegant pagoda with a golden roof decorated with wooden carvings. On the walls of the temple hang icons depicting the protector goddess Green Tara, the health-giving Buddha Manla and other Buddhist deities, brought from Mongolia and Tibet, as well as bronze sculptures made by craftsmen from Nepal.
The Republic of Kalmykia is a beautiful and interesting region, unlike most Russian cities and regions, which makes it even more interesting to travel.
A map of Kalmykia with regions and transport routes clearly demonstrates that you can get to this region in a variety of ways.
Passengers can use air Transport or ground vehicles. Satellite map Kalmykia demonstrates the roads that lead to Kalmykia from Stavropol, Volgograd and other regions.
The Elista-Divnoye railway section communicates with the rest of the railway network. But in most cases, passengers purchase tickets for a train in Stavropol, an air or bus flight.
- when purchasing a ticket for the Moscow-Elista bus route, expect that the travel time will be approximately 24 hours;
- in Moscow you can buy a plane ticket to Elista from Ruslan Airlines, but these flights are very rare;
- You can get to Kalmykia with a transfer by taking a flight to Stavropol, and from there by train or bus.
There is only one airport on the territory of Kalmykia, which is located in Elista. This air complex receives flights from Rostov-on-Don, Moscow, and Mineralnye Vody.
Map of the Republic of Kalmykia with all cities
An online map of Kalmykia with borders shows a vast steppe territory with lakes and several large settlements.
Before heading to the republic, you need to explore the region, find out what attractions there are. It is best to start getting acquainted with the capital of Kalmykia - Elista. This one is small but a beautiful city, founded in the 19th century, is a kind of oasis in the steppe, where 100 thousand inhabitants settled.
Elista is distinguished by its Buddhist flavor; here are the pearls of Buddhist culture - the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni Temple. This temple houses many Buddhist relics.
For lovers interesting leisure I'll love the City Chess area. It was built specifically for the 33rd World Chess Olympiad. The Chess Palace is located in the central part, and the complex itself is filled with small cottages, creating the feeling of being in a European town.
Tsagan Aman is located 300 kilometers from Elista. Here is an amazing example of Buddhist architecture, the Tsagan-Aman Khurul Temple.
Elista is the capital of the Republic of Kalmykia and is considered the chess capital of Russia. Everything here is imbued with the spirit of chess, and many of the city’s attractions are connected specifically with chess. Elista often hosts major international chess tournaments with the participation of the most famous chess grandmasters in the world. And Elista, together with Ulan-Ude, is one of the largest Buddhist centers in Russia. This nice city I'll show you today. 2. Elista was founded in 1865. And nine years earlier, Russian Emperor Nicholas II, by his decree, ordered the planting of forests on the Kalmyk steppes. Naturally, there was a need for people who would do this. The founder of Elista is considered to be Stepan Prokopyevich Kiykov, a former serf. In 1862, he built the first house on the territory of modern Elista. In 1865 it was already a small village consisting of 10 households. 3. Monument to the hero of the Patriotic War of 1812, commander of the second Astrakhan Kalmyk regiment, Prince Serbedzhab Tyumen. It is installed at the entrance to the city from the eastern side. 4. South Gate of the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. They are built in traditional oriental style and are painted in three colors - red, blue and gold. The gate looks very beautiful and solemn, because according to Buddhist traditions, it is the South Gate that is considered the main entrance to the territory of the Golden Monastery. 5. Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. Buryatia is usually considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. But the largest Buddhist temple (not only in Russia, but also in Europe) is located in Kalmykia, in the center of Elista. The building is shaped like a mandala and seems to float in space, surrounded by a fence with many white stupas. A wonderful garden with fountains, statues and spinning prayer wheels completes the picture. It is here that the largest 12-meter Buddha statue in Europe and Russia, covered with gold leaf and diamonds, is located. 6. 7. 8. The doors of the temple have been open since the end of December 2005, a year after the visit of His Holiness the Dalai Lama XIV. The building has everything necessary for a Buddhist - a library, a Tibetan doctor's reception room, a prayer hall, meditation rooms and the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. 9. We were lucky, we walked a little at a Kalmyk wedding) 10. Monument to Ubashi Khan, this is an exact copy of the monument to the last Kalmyk Khan Ubashi, located in the city of Bulgan (Mongolia). 11. 12. 13. The Seven Days Pagoda is located in the central square of the city of Elista. The pagoda got its name due to its seven tiers, symbolizing the seven days of the week. In the very center there is a copper prayer drum, about 2 meters high, covered with gold leaf. It is designed to give harmony and peace to the residents of the city. It contains 75 million mantras. According to the Buddhist tradition, one rotation of the drum with pure thoughts is equivalent to reading all these mantras. 14. 15. Light and musical fountain “Three Lotuses”. Lotus flowers in Buddhism symbolize purity. 16. Monument to V.I. Lenin was moved three times in the square. In 1970, it was opened. In 1995, the monument was turned 180 degrees so that it faced the deity of Buddha Shakyamuni, which was installed in the square in 1995. And in 2005, the monument was moved closer to the Meeting Hall of the Government House. Now the monument to V.I. Lenin is located on the same square bearing his name, but not in the very center. 17. 18. 19. 20. Fountain “Boy and Dragon” in Friendship Park. Three living boys are cooling off in it. And the boy himself perched to the left of the Dragon, he is not visible :) 21. 22. Golden Gate Altn Bosch. The gate is a tall golden arch made in the traditional Buddhist style. The arch is supported by thin red columns. Its height is 15 meters. The outside of the arch is decorated with 28 paintings by artist Nikolai Borisov; the drawings depict the most important events of Kalmyk history. It is believed that the one who passes under the arch is spiritually purified, and all his desires are fulfilled. 23. The sculpture “Tsagan Aav” is a sculpture of a mythological creature of the pre-Buddhist period, revered by the Kalmyk people as their patron. Tsagan Aav is translated from the Kalmyk language as “White Elder”. It is a symbol of eternity, purity, harmony and unity. 24. Golden Buddha Pagoda in Druzhba Park. This is the only example where the statue was installed on the street, and not in the premises of a Buddhist temple. The statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is enclosed inside a hexagonal rotunda - a pagoda. The statue is made of white marble. But, in the last year, Buddha is covered with a yellow robe. 25. 26. Tree of wishes, lovers come here and leave locks 27. 28. House of Soviets. Built in 1928-1932. as a building for the regional Kalmyk committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks. Architectural monument of federal significance. Currently, the building houses the First Building of Kalmyk University. 29. 30. Cinema 31. Monument to A.S. Pushkin. Probably, there are monuments to Pushkin and Lenin in every Russian city) 32. 33. 34. Monument to the dzhangarchi Eelyan Ovla, a Kalmyk dzhangarchi, that is, a singer and storyteller. From him the Kalmyk people heard songs from the folklore work “Dzhangar” for the first time. This is the most famous Kalmyk epic, known throughout the world. Eelyan Ovl came from a family of storytellers; from childhood he was trained to become a dzhangarchi and taught to sing epic songs to people. In 1908, the scientist Nomto Ochirov recorded all the songs performed by Eelyan. 35. In front of the Elista Hotel building there is a sculpture “Dragon Lu” - a large stone statue depicting a lying dragon, stylized in an oriental manner. The sculpture was created by the famous Tuvan sculptor Kh. Dongak. He created his sculpture according to all the canons of the ancient art of Tuvan stone carving. The material was greenish agalmolite, a beautiful fine-grained stone. 36. Memorial complex “Alley of Heroes”. The central figure of the composition is a bronze monument to the legendary Kalmyk military leader Lieutenant General Basan Badminovich Gorodovikov. Behind the monument there are two memorial walls with bronze bas-reliefs of twenty-four Heroes of the Soviet Union and Russia and thirty-three Heroes of Socialist Labor, who are in some way connected with the Republic of Kalmykia. 37. 38. 39. I haven’t seen this for about twenty years, and only in the movies :) 40. In 1998, the city of Chess (City Chess) was built in Elista, which was opened for the 33rd World Chess Olympiad . The official literary name of City Chessa is New Vasyuki. 41. Ostap Bender and 12 chairs. The first monument to this famous character was erected here. The author of the sculpture was the architect A. Khachaturian. He portrayed the son of a Turkish citizen - Ostap Ibrahimovich Bender Bey. He is dressed in his usual suit - smart trousers and boots. The jacket is open, a scarf is carelessly wrapped around the neck, and a cap is on the head. The right hand of the bronze Ostap lies in his trouser pocket, and in his left hand he holds a chess piece - a knight. The monument was erected in the new City Chess microdistrict - the new chess capital. 42. In the center of City Chessa there is the Mikhail Tal Museum of Chess Glory. Initially, the museum was opened as a chess museum, and it became the only museum of this kind in the world. The museum consists of two parts. The first contains an exhibition entirely dedicated to chess: various chess tournaments and chess players; interesting chess boards and pieces, cups, winners’ trophies, paintings, and documents are also presented here. In the second part you can see the personal belongings of Mikhail Tal himself; there are about 3000 of them. You can always play chess in the museum; tables with boards are placed in special game rooms, which are never empty.
