I am sure that you all, well, almost all, at least once heard about this place, but perhaps did not attach any importance to it. Remember the line from the song "Rybachy melted in the distant fog ..."? So this is what they say about him - about Rybachy, a peninsula fanned with eternal glory, located in the very north of the European part of Russia
I have been to the Kola Peninsula many times. But all these trips took place in the fall, winter or spring. It was impossible to go there in the summer. But I wanted to. And so that not just in summer, but necessarily on a polar day, when the sun does not sink below the horizon. And so the trip planned a few months ago seems to be taking shape - and trusted friends are ready to join the company, and there is a suitable car, and the boss does not mind. Let's go! Our goal is the Rybachy Peninsula.
The Rybachiy Peninsula is the northernmost part of European Russia. This is a border area, therefore, to visit it, you need to issue passes at the Murmansk border detachment or at the FSB Directorate for the Murmansk Region - the procedure is simple, but it can take up to a month of waiting.
TITLE
We got out of Murmansk only in the late afternoon - purchasing food, fuel, packing luggage and canisters took almost half a day. We flew about a hundred kilometers on the asphalt and behind the border control post, crossing the Titovka River over the bridge, turned off the road to the right - the journey began! There are four of us - residents of Murmansk Vladimir Kondratyev, Alexander and Evgeny Zarodovs (father and son), as well as the author of these notes. Transport units - prepared for the trophy "UAZ" on "collective farm" bridges and a 500-cc ATV Polaris.
We are moving along Titovka. The history of the name of this river and the bay of the same name in Motovsky Bay dates back to the 16th century, however, then it was called Kitovka because of the massive release of whales on land. In ancient times, Sredny and Rybachy were islands and there was a "whale crossing" between them and the mainland. Over time, the land rose, and the age-old instincts of the animals remained.
The exact purpose of these seid stones in Sámi culture is still not clear. Either they served as landmarks in the desert tundra, or were used as religious attributes
Soon we stopped on the shore for a parking lot. We had a snack, admired the completely shameless ducks stealing bread from us, and drove on - there is nothing to waste precious time sleeping. It's light, the polar day!
PASS
The only road from the Big Land to Rybachy was built by the monks of the Pechenga Monastery for their horse carts. Then, after the Soviet sappers, in 1940, the first tank passed through it. During the war, it was occupied by the Germans - until now, everywhere around the fortifications and barbed wire. And on the left and right under the slopes are the remains of equipment, serving as a sobering factor for any driver. The road is tricky - twists and turns, then rises, then descends from the hill to the hill. I can imagine how hard it is here in winter in ice or blizzard. It is not for nothing, probably, since the wartime, the stream before the ascent is called Piany - here it was supposed to take a glass for good luck, and on the descent the Sober - in order to drink cold water and take a break, wiping sweat from his forehead ... Around the amazing beauty of the northern landscapes with saucers of lakes, looking into the sky between the hills, covered with soft moss and reflected in the water in some unrealistic green color. True, barely descending from the pass, we found ourselves under low dense clouds and a fine, sluggish rain that subsequently accompanied us throughout the trip.
LESSONS OF HISTORY
We go around the Motovsky Bay. To the east goes the legendary Musta-Tunturi - a four-kilometer ridge, the only section where German troops could not cross our land border. From June 29, 1941 until the end of the war, the front line here remained unchanged! But the names of all the defenders of Musta-Tunturi are still unknown. Every year, search engines recover and reburial their remains. And here to the right of the road is the camp of one of these teams. Despite the early morning, the attendants are on their feet, water in the boiler gurgles over the fire. They invite you to sit down, treat you to tea, show your yesterday's find - a military-style flask with the scrawled name of a soldier. We meet the leaders of the group - Alexander and Ksenia. They are from Nikel, they have been working with schoolchildren here for several years already. The city administration supports - allocates tents, equipment. Yes, such history lessons will be remembered by the children for the rest of their lives!
STRICTLY TO THE NORTH
We skip Bolshoye Ozerko - a former anti-aircraft garrison, almost a city. In 1959, an air defense regiment with a missile system, the same from which a U-2 spy plane was shot down near Sverdlovsk, was transferred here from Tallinn. And in the fall of 1994, the last residents left the village.
The vector of our further route points strictly to the north along the Bolshaya Volokovaya Bay. We drive along the coast, breathing in the real arctic wind at the stops. Even inclement weather does not spoil the joyful mood from the anticipation of meeting the peak point of the hike. And that's all, we have arrived! Vaydaguba, Cape German - further only the Arctic Ocean and the North Pole! Historians believe that people have lived here since the Stone Age. In the 16th century, merchant ships moored on Vaida (translated from Finnish as “change”), and trade was conducted. German is usually interpreted as "foreign". It seems that everything is mixed on this small piece: the ruins of an old pier and a monument to the defenders of the Fatherland, a Sami well and a completely modern weather station, stones with mysterious signs and ... a payphone operating autonomously on solar batteries.
DESERT SHORE
We collect water from an ancient well into an eggplant and head to Cape Skorbeevsky. Another legacy of the Cold War, another abandoned garrison. An eerie sight ...
We spend the night near the waterfall on Zubovka. It’s hard to believe that before these lands were so populated that to a Dutch traveler, circling the Fishing Sea in 1594, it seemed like one big city - there were so many buildings on the coast.
SECRET PLANS
It's time to reveal a little secret here. Besides my usual desire to visit Rybachye, I had one more goal. Now that the "secrecy label has been removed" and the system for issuing passes to the border zone has been worked out, this summer is a real pilgrimage here. Jeepers, motorcyclists, cyclists, pedestrians ... But almost everyone travels along the same route in the central and northwestern parts of the peninsula. There are even firms specializing in off-road tourism that take customers to pre-determined points, almost like the Golden Circle, only with planned adventures in the form of fords and destroyed bridges. But nowhere did I find any mention of their visit to the eastern part of Rybachy. Even in Google Earth this area is hidden for some reason by a veil of "unreadability". So let it be “our little end of the Earth”!
The roads in the tundra are unpredictable. It is unlikely that this vehicle will ever drive - its destiny is to become the prey of "metal hunters"
BPM
Leaving Zubovskaya Bay, we rush east, towards Tsyp-Navolok, along the rocky coast of the sea. After a couple of kilometers, we see flat sandy surfaces and the remains of many fortifications - during the war there was an alternate airfield here. And soon we find ourselves at BPM. This abbreviation is deciphered both as "Let's drink, guys," Moskovskaya ", and as" The patrimony of fishermen-meteorologists ", and as" Here are the ruins of a lighthouse. " The latest version is now the most correct - since 1953 there has been a fan-shaped radio beacon (BPM). Warships and cargo ships were guided by the signals they sent. A kind of analogue of the modern GPS system. In 1979, the outdated design of the lighthouse was replaced by a new one, but soon nobody needed it. From the former genius of human thought, in addition to the ruins of a two-story building, auxiliary and outbuildings, several 75-meter towers remained, placed for almost five kilometers along the sea.
CHICK-NAVOLOK
We entered Tsyp-Navolok after midnight. As it should be at this time of day, normal people were already asleep. We stopped in the center of the village near the lighthouse and looked around. Nobody. Only a couple of dogs run around the car and beg, barking softly. We notice that a door opens in a nearby house and a figure of a young guy in a shirt and camouflage pants appears on the threshold. The building is located behind a low fence and a gate with a star. Come on, say hello. You have to talk with difficulty, because the cold, almost icy wind almost knocks you down. Visitors are rare here, so the conversation is quite official: "Who are they, where, why, are there passes to the closed area?" We are at a military facility where civilians are not supposed to be. Zhenya jokingly asks about the presence of a shop or a stall in the village, which immediately relieves the tense situation - we are invited into the house to drink tea. I have never eaten such delicious bread that sailors bake in Tsyp-Navolok! Better than any croissants! Andrey is a contract midshipman, has been serving here for several years. He grumbles that they pay little, but is not going to leave yet: “I am at home here, and who will teach these young people? Everything depends on the midshipmen. " Although himself at most 27 years old, no more. And the philosopher: “What to do here in winter besides work? Here I am writing poetry out of boredom - last year I filled up my entire notebook! " And after tea, he gives us a real apartment for the night with six soldiers' beds almost close to each other and a stove.
VISITING MIKHALYCH
The usual drizzle is pouring from the sky, and sleeping under a warm roof, and not in a wet tent, is the height of bliss. Therefore, the morning begins closer to lunchtime and ... with another check - it was the midshipman who looked in and said that we should show ourselves with the documents at the outpost. The border guards in these parts have all the functions of power - from the primary ones to protect the borders to the police and “fish control” ones. While we were washing and getting ready, the head of the garrison himself visited us. A serious mustachioed officer scrutinized the papers, but after looking at the "business card" - a magazine with material about our March trip to Cape Svyatoy Nos, his eyes became kinder and the tips of his mustache crawled up - everything is fine, your own! It's time to sit down at the table together, because besides acquaintance there is one more reason - the most important, perhaps, in this situation - today is the Day of the Navy! After a small buffet table, Andrei Mikhailovich proudly showed his farm. It turns out that behind the shabby facade of the outwardly unprepossessing barracks, there is a completely modern building with all the amenities and renovation. There is a sauna and a la swimming pool on the street. It is difficult to imagine how hard it was all built and delivered along the "roads" on which the military "Ural" "strips" three wheels per trip, and the same BPM masts serve as landmarks in winter. But nevertheless, people live and work. On the territory of the village there is a meteorological station, founded already in 1921, an operating lighthouse, from which we have an amazing view of the stormy Barents Sea, Anikievsky Island (oh, the weather would be better!) And the deserted shores for many, many kilometers around. But even at the beginning of the last century, there was a fishing trading post of the Savin brothers, the largest buyers of fish in Murman, there were houses of colonists, a church and even a hospital of the Red Cross.
STONE CHRONICLES
Meteorological conditions did not allow us to get to Anikievsky island. Here is what is written about him in the “Guide to the Russian North”, published in 1898: “During the stopping of the steamer in Tsyp-Navolok, it is curious to visit the nearby Anikeev island, one of the slabs of which is a stone chronicle of Murman. It is all covered carefully and beautifully ... with the carved names of Danish, German and Dutch skippers who came to Murman for fish in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Especially beautiful are the inscriptions: Berent Gundersen 1595, 1596, 1597, 1610, 1611, 1615 blef jeg frataget skif (“the ship was taken away from me”). Below, under the inscription, a warrior is depicted ... "And even further:" The Russian inscription, carved in curly writing, is beautiful and interesting: Leta 7158 (according to the new chronology, it is 1650 - Ed. Note) Grishka Dudin grieved. " And the expedition of M. Oresheta in 1995 found an even earlier Pomor autograph: "There was Shuerechanin Vasily Malashov in 1630".
RETURN WAY
Almost a day spent in Tsyp-Navolok flew by unnoticed. In two days we definitely had to return to Murmansk. We say goodbye to the hospitable hosts and, as usual at night, we start. Although what kind of night it is, rather a slight twilight.
If you look at the map, then there are several roads leading to Ozerk, Rybachy's junction. We choose the shortest, but, as it turns out later, the most difficult - "Zubovsky tract". It walks through the mountains among the tundra swamps flooded by many days of rains. Puddles, often as deep as the hood of an elevated "UAZ" on 35 wheels, come across every 50-100 meters. And stones, stones, stones! The speed of advance is about 3-5 km / h. Sometimes it's even easier to ride a quad, as you can go around obstacles along the edge, but the wind and rain make it a very difficult walk.
STONE GREATS
After 12 hours of non-stop travel, the loop along Rybachy closed, and we descended to Sredny. Now the direction of movement is counterclockwise. From Cape Zemlyanoy we drive along the western coast along a long 30-meter cliff, made of the finest shale plates, through which many small springs break through. The famous "Two Brothers" are gigantic outliers. There is some kind of mysticism here - it is not without reason that the Sami have since ancient times considered the Pummanki mountain to be the habitat of sorcerers (noids). According to legend, two of them - brothers Noyd-Ukko and Noyd-Akka - were punished for their atrocities and turned into these stone sculptures.
38 STARS
A little further, on the high bank, we meet a practically untouched coastal battery of the 1950s (judging by the nameplate on the gun, 1946). Multilevel system of moves, lubricated mechanisms. During the war, the 221st battery was also based here, which destroyed a German minesweeper on June 22, 1941 and thus opened the combat account of the USSR Navy. The barrel from one of her guns with 38 stars (according to the number of enemy ships sunk) now lies in the ship's cemetery four kilometers from this place.
GLORY TO THE HEROES!
We break the last night on this trip on the outskirts of Sredne, on the river bank under the Musta-Tunturi ridge. Sanya Zarodov tells how, as a schoolboy, he participated in the installation of the first obelisk on it. I carried sand up in a backpack for the foundation of the monument. Suddenly our camp is illuminated by the sun peeking out of the clouds - for a week we have already lost the habit of it. We look at the lightened mountains and somehow automatically begin to discuss the route of our next trip to the North. Harsh beauties, the attraction of the North, the end of the Earth - seemingly banal phrases, but ... oddly enough, very honest and appropriate here.
"Two brothers", who were worshiped and feared by the Sami, considering them petrified evil sorcerers. A geocache cache is now hidden at the base of the northern outlier.
The Rybachiy Peninsula is located in the very north of the Murmansk region. He meets tourists with a depressing sight of the abandoned village of Bolshiye Ozerki. Abandoned destroyed houses immediately make you want to move on. There are only two residential settlements on the peninsula, and less than 150 people permanently live there.
Rybachy Peninsula. Coast.
The peninsula itself is a low plateau, indented by small rivers, streams and lakes. The highest point is 334 m.
During the Second World War, fierce battles were fought for the peninsula, and you can still see the remains of guns and military fortifications throughout its territory. In the post-war years, there were military bases, a large port, a collective farm, several settlements, but gradually all this was abandoned and fell into desolation. All over the peninsula there were only dilapidated houses, Soviet and German pillboxes, abandoned and rusting equipment. Until 2009, the peninsula was a border zone, and to visit it you had to issue a pass, now you can freely travel here.
There is only one active military base left in the village of Vaida-Guba, near the bay of the same name. Not far from the village there is a lighthouse and a monument to the soldiers who fell in the battles of the Great Patriotic War. One of the first weather stations in Russia is also located here; it was built here more than a century ago.
The most popular route is to the northernmost point rybachy Peninsula - Cape German.
Formally, the peninsula is washed by the Barents Sea, but when you look at the huge turquoise waves, you get the feeling that you are standing on the shore of the harsh and boundless northern ocean. By the way, you can almost always admire these waves here, regardless of the season. Even in summer, the wind blows very often on the coast, and in winter the sea does not freeze. Although it is not a good idea to go here in winter just to admire the views. In summer, the temperature rarely rises above 20 degrees. Summer is very short, relatively warm here only in July-August, night frosts begin in September.
Rybachiy Peninsula - how to get there?
Abandoned village on the peninsula You can get to the Rybachiy Peninsula only by car. The border zone has been canceled, a Russian passport is enough to travel. Since the peninsula is a natural park, formally, you need to fill out an electronic approval to visit it, but in fact, there is no one on the peninsula who could check whether a visit was agreed or not.
The easiest option is to book an excursion at some travel company that deals with this. I can recommend the company Nordextream, they carry them to the Rybachiy and Sredny peninsulas and do it well. There is a detailed report with photos of the trip with them.
But if you decide to risk your car, know that you need a well-prepared SUV, and preferably more than one. The second SUV is very useful in order to pull out the first one.
From Murmansk you need to go along the A-138 highway, after about 100 km. there will be the Titovka river. We cross over it and turn right. We drive about 50 km to the village of Bolshoye Ozerko, located already on the peninsula.
Here the road ends, it is very difficult to name what follows the road. But along the rivers and stones you can try to get to the northernmost part of the European territory of Russia - the German Peninsula.
Video trip to the Rybachy Peninsula
To be honest, I had to spend those days off flying over the Solovetsky Islands. But the weather forecasts were depressing and I did not go. The pilots drove there just to look at the places there. And I was already there and the prospect of wandering around the islands in cloudy weather (when I was there before in sunny weather) did not inspire at all. Stayed at home. And then I was offered to make a company on a trip to the Sredny and Rybachy peninsulas in our Kola Peninsula.
By the way, the weather was also expected to be severe. However, choosing between two places where to freeze (in an apartment or outdoors), I chose the second option. Well, at least take a ride, look and decide on the future with an already unhurried trip to the northernmost edge of our region (sorry :))).
I have already written about the beginning of our expedition ... Having unexpectedly slept well under the roar of a waterfall, refreshed with sandwiches and tea or coffee, we moved along the Titovka River to the north. The most courageous three climbed onto the roof of our "all-off-road builder" and from there surveyed the surroundings, entertaining themselves with stories and incidents from life. The sky on the horizon gave hope. God, how badly we were wrong!
Although the car was thrown from side to side on pits and bumps, like a fragile boat during a storm, it didn’t prevent you from sometimes taking out your camera and taking pictures on the move, of course, with belay from both sides. Moreover, the insurance was extremely reliable: sometimes it was impossible to bring the camera to my nose - my comrades held me so tightly. Although, to be honest, most of the way then passed along the usual monotonous tundra, where there was nothing to catch the eye, so I did not get the camera.
I must say that we met a lot of people: fishermen and tourists in ordinary cars, and companies of ATVs and cyclists, and "jeepers".
Such is the tundra, such is the landscape ...
We drive up to the pass. After a short stop, the people also wanted to hang out on the roof and a whole "garden" was located there.
We passed the pass and almost immediately the purpose of our trip appeared in front of us.
Traces of fierce battles during the Great Patriotic War are found everywhere here.
And there are many monuments and obelisks to the heroes who defended the Arctic.
The sun came out again. As it turned out later, this was his farewell greeting.
Once again it lit up the sea, but somewhere far behind in the south. And on the course we were greeted by a low dark sky, wind blowing right in our face and drizzle with fog. On the roof, we were already traveling together with a partner for a long time - the rest were blown into a dry large "cabin". It’s so good that halfway through, I donned a windproof and waterproof raincoat, like my neighbor on the perch on the roof! It was impossible to photograph anything along the way - the dampness instantly settled on the lens filter. And why the hell did I get involved in this adventure?
However, we got there! Cape Nemetskiy is the northernmost point of the Kola Peninsula and the European part of Russia. Further only the ocean and the North Pole.
Birds overhead. Sometimes I had to bend down ...
The wind still whistles from the north, carrying drizzle. It turns out that you take one frame and wipe the filter glass for half an hour, turning away. So there will be no gradient filters, water washings and other "artistic" features. Pure chronicle of events and statement of facts. Unfortunately. Moreover, in such trips everything happens according to the principle of "galloping through Europe": there is little time, but you need to see a lot.
The rocks on the coast impressed me a lot.
The water also had something to look at. "Polarik" would not hurt, of course, but wind it up in the rain ...
I am shocked by these rocks. Individual stripes of the size and shape of the machete could be separated from the mass. The edge of such a cleaver was almost as sharp.
Do you know this plant? A lot of interesting things are told about him.
Sea ocean.
So the ATVs caught up with us. We went to the very shore, apparently.
And ours decided to look at the birds. There are a lot of them there and they were not happy with us.
Still would! Only, over there, the small ones hatched. They don't know how not to fly, not to run. They hide, freeze and wait for the uninvited guests to leave. Please do not swear - all precautions have been taken. The photo was taken from a distance by a telephoto camera at maximum zoom (and cropped for enlargement). We are not enemies to nature.
Yes, there are also two more lighthouses: old and new, working and not.
On one I was "ashamed" to go (judging by the sign, overtaking was allowed somewhere :))), and on the other I climbed, of course.
An unearthly picture from it opens in one direction (and in the other and in the third - a gray fog).
And on the fourth side - that cape with rocks, where we had to go further.
Well, again, everyone was assembled and they were just waiting for me. He threw his backpack behind his back, rolled down the rotten stairs ... Let's go.
The distance was very short, so we arrived quickly. And immediately we climbed the cliff - to look around.
The "pattern" of the local rocks is also very textured.
What forces have tried so hard here? It looks extraordinary.
At this point I could not resist, went down to the foot of the rocks and rushed to the shore while the people were busy with photo sessions. But I also wanted to climb the second peak of the neighboring cliff. In general, he ran along these stone folds at a run and scared them a little with a camera.
I looked, and on that top they were already walking ... I hurried to them.
I looked back at the stone waves on the shore.
Here is the top. The wind is great here. And the review is excellent.
For the photo, thanks to a beautiful stranger, whom we found here sitting on the top and looking into the distance all alone (I myself like to do so according to my mood in my solitary excursions, when I'm not in a hurry). And the girl travels alone (!) On foot (!) Around the peninsula (!). Now I am writing at home, and she is still there (the guys said that she plans to finish the hike by the end of July). From my "bell tower" I can only envy her: how many different things you can see without haste, and nature, for sure, will give a chance to capture it with good weather.
Oh, how specially one of our participants in the trip came to the same place where I was, for the scale.
Again with regret I leave this place - it's time to move on.
Our movements are closely watched from the air ...
We pass Skorbeevka ... Once upon a time there was a real military settlement, there is a house even four floors, a couple - smaller and small piles. Interestingly, with us on the trip was a man who lived here at one time. To my question: "where are the missile silos here?" replied that there were mobile complexes. He showed where the "headquarters" and the household infrastructure of the village were. Now the wind is blowing and desolation reigns here. It is clear that, as is customary with us, everything is broken and torn apart, pieces of wood have been removed from everywhere: either for bonfires, or for other purposes ...
Once again I was convinced: almost always where there is no person, there is beauty :))
Cold northern waters.
I found here a small fragment of the same rocks as in Vayde-Guba.
All around rocks and stones ...
And suddenly - a real beach! Where is the sun and my bathing suit ?!
I wandered back and forth along the shore, breathed in the sea air and went to the camp: we got up here for the night.
The Rybachiy Peninsula, which is located in the Murmansk region, is a very interesting place. The Rybachy Peninsula will certainly appeal to those who love travel, nature trips and sea fishing. Photos from trips and travels to this unique place can be found on the Internet, as well as in travel magazines. There you can also find reviews of experienced tourists-lovers of outdoor activities and interesting photos of amateur fishermen.
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You can get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk... The main thing is to think over the route of the trip in advance, because due to difficult weather conditions, the trip to Rybachy can be frustrated. To get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk, you must have a map with you. The Rybachiy Peninsula in the Murmansk region is one of the most interesting places on the map of northern Russia.
Travel to the Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk region: why it is worth going there
Those who love outdoor activities do not have to leave Russia for this. There are very interesting routes in our country too. In the north of Russia, beyond the Arctic Circle, there is the city of Murmansk. This is one of the northernmost cities in Russia. From Murmansk you can easily get to the Rybachiy Peninsula.
There are several reasons where you should definitely visit Rybachy... These are the following reasons:
Those who are interested in Russian history and the military glory of Russia will certainly want to return to Rybachy again and again. Here you can still find shells and other artifacts that have survived since the Great Patriotic War. The heroic past of the Rybachy Peninsula is even sung in the famous Soviet song dedicated to parting with the Rocky Mountains. There are industrial enterprises, fisheries and reindeer farms.
Murmansk region Rybachy peninsula: fishing for outdoor enthusiasts
This place has a "telling name": Rybachy. It is no coincidence that local residents dubbed this peninsula is just like that. The Rybachiy Peninsula provides everyone with a unique opportunity to have a great time on real sea fishing. You can fish both with a fishing rod and with a more modern spinning rod equipped with a variety of additional devices. They go to sea, as a rule, by boat or by boat. You can get on sea fishing in the following ways:
While fishing, you can easily catch a wide variety of sea fish, which a resident of the Russian central strip usually sees only in stores. It is good to catch both large cod and small capelin here. If you are very lucky, you can see real fur seals basking on the seashore.
On the territory of the peninsula there are a large number of private fishing farms and tourist centers designed for fishing enthusiasts. Transport and fishing equipment can be rented at the hostel. Those who are afraid to go to the open sea for the first time without an accompanying person can take with them a competent instructor - a seasoned fisherman who will help to organize fishing correctly and get a good catch.
For fishing, you should choose calm, windless weather. It is dangerous to fish in a storm, therefore, if a tourist plans to go to Rybachy for the purpose of fishing, it is advisable to check the weather in advance.
While fishing, you can take unique photos. The northern sea waters are rich in fish, so even a novice amateur angler will not be left without a solid catch. Everything you need for fishing (bait, clothing, accessories) can be purchased at local fishing shops... The best time for fishing is the short northern summer. Locals from time immemorial have been engaged in fishing, hence the "telling" name of the peninsula. A fish like this cannot be caught anywhere else. Sea fishing in one of the coldest and most northern places in our country is an activity for real men and passionate fishing enthusiasts.
Rybachy is located in the north of Russia, so the climate there is very specific. So, when going on a trip, you should definitely take warm clothes with you: a jacket, boots, a warm hat, waterproof clothing for sea fishing.
The Rybachy Peninsula is rich in mushrooms and berries. Passionate mushroom pickers should be aware that blood-sucking insects are raging in the local forests during the mushroom season, so you should definitely take protective equipment with you - insecticides and repellents. Those who go to the forest to “quietly hunt” should wear long-sleeved clothing so that arms and legs are reliably protected from bites.
Those, who go to Rybachy in summer, in the midst of the local tourist season, must make a reservation in advance in a hotel or a tourist center, otherwise there may simply not be vacancies.
It is imperative to take your camera and video camera with you on your trip. There are big problems with cellular communication on the territory of the peninsula. In order to talk on the phone with relatives or friends, you have to specifically look for a place where you can catch a mobile connection.
There are several nature reserves and national parks on the peninsula. During your stay in these places, you must strictly follow the rules of conduct that are mandatory for all visitors : do not make fires, do not leave trash behind, do not pick flowers or break tree branches. In case of violations of generally accepted rules, the offender risks paying a substantial fine.
On the territory of the peninsula there are places where any hunting and fishing is completely prohibited. Therefore, before planning these events, you need to check with local residents if the chosen place is not forbidden.
Those, who loves animals and is interested in agriculture, can visit numerous reindeer farms scattered in abundance throughout the peninsula.
The Rybachiy Peninsula is a unique place in the north of Russia. This place has an ancient history and a heroic military past. Those who have visited the Rybachy Peninsula at least once usually return there several times. The majestic northern nature makes people's hearts swoon with admiration. However, it is not recommended to travel to Rybachy with small children, because the weather on Rybachy is very harsh. - an ideal option for those who are interested in the nature of their native land and love extreme tourism. Rest here is inexpensive, but will be remembered for a long time.
The Rybachy Peninsula, stretching from the Kola Peninsula to the Barents Sea of \u200b\u200bthe Arctic Ocean, is the northernmost land of the European part of Russia. Written records of the mid-16th century say that here, in the Kekurskaya Bay, was one of the three centers of international trade between Russia and Europe.
The peninsula is washed by the Barents Sea and the Motovsky Bay. Off the coast of the peninsula, the sea does not freeze all year round thanks to the warm North Cape Current.
For many centuries in the far north, far beyond the Arctic Circle, Russian Pomors, together with the Norwegians, Finns and Lappish Sámi, have been fishing and selling fish.
In the 20th century, the Sredny and Rybachy peninsulas, connected by an isthmus, acquired strategic military significance: the retention of Rybachy made it possible to control the northern sea route. Here, during the entire Great Patriotic War, Soviet sailors and soldiers did not concede a single meter of land to the enemy, and the Musta-Tunturi ridge, separating the peninsula from the mainland, is saturated with the blood of heroes.
In our time, after the collapse of the USSR, in the euphoria of trust in former conditional adversaries, troops have been withdrawn from the peninsulas, military camps have been destroyed. There are almost no people on Rybachye now, only a few border guards and employees of two lighthouses and a meteorological station on Cape Nemetsky remained.
Surprisingly, in recent years, interest in the history of Rybachy has been reviving. Young people of the new generation are restoring and erecting monuments to Soviet soldiers.
For me, Rybachy is also a place of strict northern beauty and powerful energy of nature. Having seen the peninsula for the first time in 2015, having endured the cold, winds and rains, apparently forever stuck to this land, the harsh sea, ancient rocks and gray mosses.
Eternity is felt here, and only here any person feels all the power of nature. Tundra vegetation, a peculiar landscape, green and white lichens, moss, reindeer lichen, an abundance of berries and mushrooms, combine with the rocks and the sea to create unique landscapes.
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2. Lip Big Volokovaya. 
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4. This road leads to Cape Nemetskiy, where the northernmost lighthouse of the continental European part of Russia is located 
5. The last surviving bridges. 
6. Empty barrels along the road, a kind of beacons for car travelers. 
7. A firing point that has survived since the Second World War. 
8. During low tide, the sea recedes and a "highway" road opens up for these places. If you do not know the specifics and try to drive during the beginning of the tide, there is a high probability of "digging into the sand under the very frame." The tide raises the water level up to one meter. According to the lighthouse keepers, at this place every year several cars are carried out to sea. 
9. Before reaching the lighthouse there is an unclassified military facility. 
10. The northernmost lighthouse of the continental European part of Russia. There is also a weather station. 
11. "End of the Earth". Further only the Arctic Ocean and the North Pole. 
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15. End of the Earth. This is the Russian North! 
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Last year, a Pomor stone well was discovered here, which is estimated to be more than 300 years old. There is still good quality drinking water in the well. 
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Then the route runs to Cape Kekursky, where the locality called "Armageddon" is located. (Due to heavy storms in the autumn, when the waves reach the top of the coastal hills) 
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Cape Kekursky.
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The coastal strip of Cape Kekursky (Armageddon) 
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So strong winds and storms sharpen, cut granite stones. 
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So storms break rocks to pieces. 
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The coastal strip of Cape Kekursky is the land end of the European part of Russia. 
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And flowers grow on the rocks. 
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Departure from Cape German and Kekursky to the base "Ozerki". 
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Lip Big Volokovaya. 
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Base "Ozerki". This is the only place on the Rybachy and Sredny peninsulas where you can dry up and spend the night. Coordinates may be useful for travelers: 
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The coastal strip of the Ozerki base 
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The Sredny peninsula and the rocks "Two brothers", the valley of the "Red stones" on the Malaya Volokovskaya bay, the battery of General Panachetov - in the next article.
The Middle Peninsula. To the rocks "Two brothers" and "Red stones". Battery Pack
Original taken from in
Who missed the previous post: “End of the Earth. Cape German and Cape Kekursky. Rybachy Peninsula ", you can see link .
Today - the northernmost point of the Sredny peninsula, Cape Zemlyanoy, where the rocks "Two Brothers" and the coast of red stones are located. The peninsula is washed by the Barents Sea and connects the mainland and the Rybachy peninsula. Off the coast of the peninsula, the sea does not freeze all year round thanks to the warm North Cape Current. Within sight of the rocks "Two Brothers" are the Ainovskie Islands, part of the Kandalaksha nature reserve.
I don't even want to write about this place, you just have to look at the photos. Insanely beautiful and amazing nature, almost complete absence of tourists. Travelers who find themselves here - untouched, extraterrestrial landscapes and landscape.
It should be noted that the Rybachiy and Sredny Peninsula Natural Park is a specially protected natural area and is regulated by the Law on Specially Protected Natural Areas.
Tourists, travelers, as well as tour organizers need to know that the creation of tourist routes in specially protected natural areas requires mandatory approval from the Ministry of Natural Resources and Ecology of the Murmansk Region. Lack of approvals leads to violation of environmental legislation and entails liability established by law. 
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The road to the rocks "Two Brothers" goes along a picturesque canyon, on the other side of the road - the coast of the Big Volokovaya Bay. 
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On the canyon, there are buildings of firing points and defenses from the Great Patriotic War. 
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Guba Bolshaya Volokovaya and the road to Cape Zemlyanoy.
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At the end of the canyon one can see the "Two Brothers", which are two remnants, a product of geological weathering. 
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Coordinates: 69 ° 49 "26" N 31 ° 46 "1" E 
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Scientifically, the "Two Brothers" were formed due to wind and rain, frost and sun, which destroyed rocks, and stones took on special outlines, sometimes similar to humans or animals. Which, however, is true and does not at all contradict the culture of the Sami. In the report on the expedition "Mystic North", one way or another connected with the Seids and the Sami, the Sami are children of nature. This people does not seek to invade other people's possessions, does not seek to destroy what was created by nature or, on the contrary, to erect monuments on their own with the aim of further worshiping them. No, for them what is given from above is much more valuable. That which is created either by nature or by forces, in their opinion, is more developed than they are. Therefore, the fact that the Sami worship a seemingly ordinary stone is not surprising. It is much more interesting why this particular stone, and even more interesting are the legends explaining such worship.
So, "Two Brothers" are considered sacred stones by the Sami. They were deified, they were worshiped. To appease the spirits, deer carcasses, fish were brought to them, and shamanic rites were performed here. 
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Literally about one kilometer from the rocks "Two Brothers", there is a place called "The Coast of Red Stones".
These are bizarre rocks, huge boulders, eaten by winds and erosion. Those who were on the eastern outskirts of the Alushta amphitheater "Demerdzhi" in the Crimea, where the famous ghost valley is located, have the opportunity to imagine what miracles nature creates. These fantastic figures, with their shapes reminiscent of the mysterious figures of people, animals, mysterious creatures and objects, change their shape depending on the time of day and lighting. Stones of very unusual shape are simply amazing.
These photos do not need further comments. They provide the basis for your imagination. 
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