Baku is the capital of the Republic of Azerbaijan, the largest economic, industrial scientific and technical center of Transcaucasia, the most significant port on the Caspian Sea and the largest city in the Caucasus. Its centuries-old history is reflected in numerous medieval attractions, including the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, the Maiden Tower, and the old quarter of Icheri Sheher.
The city is located on the shores of the Caspian Sea, in the south of the Absheron Peninsula. Baku has a mild continental and semi-desert climate with cool winters, hot summers and infrequent precipitation. Some years may see a lot of snow, but usually there are small accumulations of snow each winter.
Story
In all likelihood, at the beginning of the era, the Absheron Peninsula was located at the bottom of the sea, since the level of the Caspian Sea was much higher. The first mentions of Baku are found in the early Middle Ages.
Climatic and physical-geographical conditions caused the emergence of a city on the Absheron Peninsula. Baku is located at the center of the intersection of trade and migration routes stretching from west to east, from north to south (Great Silk Road). The energy and fuel wealth that has been reaching the earth's surface since ancient times and called “naphtha” also contributed to the formation of the city.
In the ninth century, Baku was part of the State of the Shirvanshahs and served as the main city of Shirvan. The local population was engaged in trade, crafts, oil production, fishing, and gardening. In the twelfth century, the city was surrounded by a two-row fortress wall and a moat. The Maiden Tower was part of the city's defense system.
The Mongol invasion in the thirteenth century brought the city into decline. Economic life picked up in the next century. Various goods were transported from Baku to Central Asia, the Golden Horde, Iran, and the Russian principalities. They exported oil, silk, salt, and brought food supplies from Shirvan. A mosque from the eleventh century and several mosques from the fourteenth century still remain in Baku.
The Ottoman army captured Baku in 1578. The city returned to Safavid rule in 1607. The main population of Absheron was engaged in carpet weaving.
Baku has attracted the attention of the Russian state. In 1723, Russian troops entered here, but were forced to leave the city after the Treaty of Ganja (1735) between Iran and Russia.
In the 18th century, the Baku Khanate was created. In 1806, the Russian army captured Baku. Since the 19th century, Baku has been the industrial and cultural center of the Caucasus. A strong earthquake occurred in Shamakhi in 1859. After which the Shemakha province was abolished and the Baku province was created with its center in Baku.
The development of oil fields caused the rapid growth of Baku, and the influx of foreign capital began. The Rothschilds, Nobels and other entrepreneurs opened their offices. In 1899, a steam fleet appeared in the Baku port, and theaters opened.
The main nationalities in the city were Azerbaijanis and Armenians. Four times (in the winter and summer of 1905; in the spring and autumn of 1918) bloody massacres occurred between these groups.
In 1920, Soviet troops entered Baku. During the Soviet period, Baku was the capital of the Azerbaijan SSR. The city is rapidly developing and turning into a large industrial, administrative, scientific, and cultural center of the USSR. During the Great Patriotic War, the capital of Azerbaijan became the main strategic center for providing fuel to military armored vehicles and aviation.
The economic and political crisis of the 80s gave rise to new realities in the life of Azerbaijan and Baku, which led to terrible tragedies and a split in society (Bloody or Black January 1990).
Nowadays, having overcome the social and economic crises of the post-Soviet years, Baku is once again becoming a major economic and cultural center of Transcaucasia.
Theaters
Azerbaijan State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater created in the spring of 1920. It was located in a building built by the architect N. Baev in 1910-11.
In 1910, the Mailov brothers decided to build a large modern building of a new theater in Baku on their own site. The elder brother Daniil Lazarevich is a businessman, a member of the trade and industrial committee, the younger brother Ilya Lazarevich is a doctor.
The capacity of the auditorium was 1281 people. On the theater stage there were ballet, opera, drama performances and also operettas in Azerbaijani and Russian languages.
The Azerbaijan State Opera and Ballet Theater has been the pride and adornment of Baku for many years, and opera as a form of theatrical art has found a place in the national culture of Azerbaijan.
The modern theater troupe includes vocal and ballet groups, a symphony orchestra, and a choir. The theater's repertoire includes world works of opera and ballet, as well as works by national authors, as well as musical performances for children.
Azerbaijan State Academic National Drama Theater over the years it had different names, in 1991 it was renamed to its modern name.
In 1919, disparate Azerbaijani theater troupes united and the theater was given state status. In 1960, a modern theater building was built (architects M. Madatov and G. Alizadeh. In 1962, a monument to Fizuli was erected in front of the theater building.
For its successful activities during the Soviet period, the theater was repeatedly awarded. Some productions received the State Prize of the USSR and Azerbaijan. The theater often went on tour to St. Petersburg, Moscow, Tbilisi, Kazan, Ashgabat, Tashkent, also in Turkey, Cyprus, and Germany.
Azerbaijan State Russian Drama Theater named after Samed Vurgun has been in operation since 1920. The State Free Satyr-Agitheatre was created on the basis of the troupe of Baliev's theater "The Bat" (Tbilisi) and partly the team of the "Momus" theater, and existed until 1923. Then the theater group was renamed the Baku Workers' Theater. The theater's repertoire consisted of works of revolutionary domestic and foreign drama.
In 1937, the theater received the name “Azerbaijan State Red Banner Theater of Russian Drama”. Theatrical tours begin to the cities of Transcaucasia and the North Caucasus, then throughout the Soviet Union.
The name of the national poet Samad Vurgun was given in 1956 and the theater received its modern name. The theater has two Orders of the Red Banner of Labor.
Today, the troupe includes young graduates of the Azerbaijan University of Art and Culture, the Drama Studio of the Theater, and the Choreographic School.
Azerbaijan Theater for Young Spectators named after M. Gorky founded in 1928. By 1930, in addition to the Russian troupe, the theater included an Azerbaijani troupe from the drama club at the Baku Sailors' Club.
Initially, plays by Russian writers were staged and translated into Azerbaijani. Performances based on plays by Azerbaijani playwrights appeared in the repertoire in the 1930s. The theater was named after M. Gorky in 1936.
In 2013, the Small Stage was opened, with a capacity of 45 spectators.
Museums
Azerbaijan State Museum of Musical Culture created in 1967. The main goals of the museum are to collect, store, study, and popularize materials related to the musical history of Azerbaijan.
The museum's storage facilities contain more than 20 thousand exhibits. These are national musical instruments: kamancha, tar, gaval, saz, zurna, goshanagara; unusual instruments: asa-saz, asa-tar; also gramophones, gramophones, gramophone records. The museum stores posters, personal belongings, recordings, archives of opera singers, music manuscripts, photographs, programs, books, works of fine art, sheet music, etc.
Museum of Azerbaijani Literature named after Nizami Ganjavi founded in 1939. Located near the entrance to Icheri Sheher and Fountain Square. Nowadays, the museum serves as one of the significant and rich treasuries of the spiritual culture of Azerbaijan. The cultural institution is engaged in research, collection, storage of scientific materials about Azerbaijani culture and literature, and presents materials in exhibitions.
National Museum of Arts of Azerbaijan named after Rustam Mustafayev founded in 1936. The largest art museum houses more than 17 thousand exhibits. And in 1943, the institution was named after the prominent theatrical artist of Azerbaijan Rustam Mustafayev, the founder of the theatrical and decorative art of Azerbaijan.
The museum is now housed in two adjacent buildings built at the end of the nineteenth century. The museum's halls display art collections from Azerbaijan, Russia, the East, and Western Europe. The exhibits were exhibited in Cuba, Syria, Canada, Czechoslovakia, France, Algeria, and Iraq. The museum is open 10:00-18:00, Tuesday-Sunday.
Azerbaijan State Museum of Carpet and Folk Applied Arts founded in 1967. This is the world's first specialized museum for the study, collection and preservation of carpets.
The first exhibition opened on the territory of the historical quarter of Icheri Sheher, in the Juma Mosque in 1972. The Azerbaijan Carpet Museum serves as a treasury of national culture, where the carpet is displayed in close connection with other types of traditional art of the peoples of Azerbaijan. The collection contains about 14 thousand carpets, clothing, embroidery, jewelry, coppersmithing, modern works made of felt, glass, and wood.
The Azerbaijani Carpet Museum serves as a scientific center for the study and development of carpet products and participates in the organization of major international symposiums. In 2008, construction began on the modern museum building, and a new exhibition opened in 2014.
Carpet weaving is the oldest form of decorative and applied art in Azerbaijan. Museum collections have been demonstrated many times in countries around the world: Great Britain, Holland, Portugal, France, Spain, Italy, Iran, India, Turkey, Israel, and the USA. The oldest piece of carpet art is a fragment of a Tabriz carpet from the 17th century.
Attractions
State Flag Square- this is the name in Baku for the square on which the state flag of the Republic of Azerbaijan is placed. In December 2007, not far from the base of the Azerbaijani Naval Forces, in the Baku village of Bailovo, the foundation of the square was laid.
The grand opening of the Square took place in 2010, and the flag of Azerbaijan was raised in a festive atmosphere. Until May 2011, the flagpole in the capital of Azerbaijan was considered the tallest in the world and is included in the Guinness Book of Records.
The area is located on an area of 60 hectares, the flagpole has a height of 162 m, a diameter from 3.2 m at the bottom to 1.09 m at the top. Structure weight – 220 tons. Flag parameters: length – 70 m, width – 35 m, area – 2450 sq. m, weight – about 350 kg.
On the square made of gilded bronze there are images of state symbols: the coat of arms, the text of the anthem and a map of the country. There is also Museum of the National Flag, which opened in 2010. The building is shaped like an eight-pointed star and is located under the flagpole pedestal. The museum displays flags of khanates and states that existed on the site of modern Azerbaijan and Armenia, coats of arms, banner tips, samples of banknotes, postage stamps, orders, medals, documents and other items from the history of Azerbaijan.
Maiden's Tower is an ancient fortified structure near the coastal part of the historical Icheri Sheher, serving as an important component of the seaside “facade” of Baku. A stern tower array rises in the coastal strip of a feudal city - a fortress. The tower is located on a rock, lined with hewn stone and screened by a fortress wall with large semicircular projections from the base to the top.
In the 12th century, the Maiden Tower was part of the defensive system of the city and was the main citadel of the Baku fortress - the most powerful fortress of the Shirvanshahs. However, studies of the tower refute assumptions about its defensive purpose. Initially, there was a version about the religious predestination of the Maiden Tower. It could have been a Zoroastrian “tower of silence” erected under the Sassanids or earlier.
The Maiden Tower, with its size and powerful walls, significantly exceeds the castles of Absheron. The defenses were probably concentrated on the upper platform, the architecture of which is not documented.
Palace of the Shirvanshahs– the former residence of the rulers of Shirvan forms a complex, which, in addition to the palace, includes a palace mosque (1441) with a minaret, the courtyard of the Divan Khan, a bathhouse, the tomb of the Shirvanshahs, and the mausoleum of the court scientist Seyid Bakuvi. The buildings of the palace complex were built in the 13th-16th centuries. The construction of the palace is associated with the move of the capital of the Shirvanshah state from Shemakha to Baku.
The main buildings of the palace ensemble were created at different times, but the complex makes an indivisible artistic impression. The builders emphasized the centuries-old traditions of the Shirvan-Apsheron architectural school. They decorated the walls with rich carved patterns, creating clear multifaceted and cubic architectural volumes. The architects, having excellent mastery of the craft of stone masonry, perceived the architectural concept of their predecessor, creatively developed and enriched it.
The palace complex was declared a museum-reserve in 1964 and taken under state protection. To this day, the Shirvanshahs' Palace is considered the pearl of Azerbaijan's architecture.
Mukhtarov Palace erected in 1911-1912 by oil industrialist, millionaire philanthropist Murtuza Mukhtarov according to the design of Joseph Ploshko. Mukhtarov, traveling with his wife across Europe, was very impressed by the architecture of Venice. Therefore, he decided that after the tour he would build a palace in the Venetian style in his native Baku. The building was conceived and executed in the spirit of French Gothic.
At one time, the palace housed the “Liberated Turkic Woman Club”, then the Shirvanshahs Museum-Reserve was opened, and later the Wedding Palace (“Palace of Happiness”). The palace building is still the most remarkable and beautiful architectural structure in Baku.
Ateshgah- an Indian temple of fire worshipers, located on the Absheron Peninsula, on the outskirts of the village of Surakhany, thirty kilometers from Baku. At different times it was revered by Zoroastrians, Hindus, and Sikhs. It appeared on the site of unquenchable fires - flaming outlets of natural gas in the 17-18 centuries, which is why it is called “Ateshgah”, which means “Place of Fire”, “House of Fire”.
The architectural structure is a hexagon in shape with an external battlemented wall and a portal, in the center of which is the main quadrangular temple - the altar, which served as a place of pilgrimage for fire worshipers. Above the entrance there is a typical Absheron balakhana - a guest room.
The temple complex was built in 1713. The fire altar reflects the ancient tradition of building altars, popular in Azerbaijan during the Median era. By order of the president of the country, the open-air museum is recognized as a State Historical and Architectural Reserve.
Hi all!! While the memories of our spring vacation are still fresh, I will be happy to tell you about it. We spent it in Baku. The city, which is the capital of Azerbaijan with a population of more than 2 million. a person with a unique flavor, traditions and oil reserves. I’ll tell you a little about how we got there. The journey took us two days. From Voronezh we went by train to Rostov, and there we boarded a train to Baku. To tell the truth, the road was a little tiring. But we don’t dislike airplanes, and the cost of a train ticket is several times cheaper. As usual, we booked the Red roof hotel on booking.com. It is not located in the city center, and even on the mountain. Therefore, it was always difficult to return to it. But for the view from our room, it was worth it. We booked it, one might say, because of the view)
Baku met us as expected with a strong wind. Many centuries ago it was called the city of winds. The capital of Azerbaijan is located on the Absheron Peninsula, which is surrounded by the Caspian Sea on three sides. Because of this, northern, southern and eastern winds blow across the city and there is rarely a calm here.
Having exchanged money for the local currency - manats (1 manat is approximately 36 rubles), we immediately went to the embankment. It is worth saying that our hotel was located near the State Flag Square. She has always been our guide. But, unfortunately, the flag was not there. Apparently it was under reconstruction. In 2007, it was included in the Guinness Book of Records as the tallest in the world. But after 4 years, the flag was hoisted 3 meters higher in Dushanbe. 
We were immediately struck by the embankment. Of course, before the trip I read that it was huge, long and beautiful. But when you see this beauty in person, you can’t believe your eyes.
This is a real paradise for cyclists and just athletes. You can run, walk, drive, play sports, and all this with a beautiful view of the Caspian Sea. Like any self-respecting park there is an open-air gym.
The Ferris wheel immediately catches your eye. Its height is 60m, the cost of visiting is 5 manats.
On the first day, due to strong winds, it did not work. But of course we rode it later. The cabins in the wheel are closed and designed for 8 people. You can change the air temperature and music volume. There is also a screen showing the stages of wheel construction. An ideal place for viewing: on one side there is a beautiful view of the Caspian Sea, and on the other, the city. We rode in the evening, because evening Baku is just space.
Seeing the Flame Towers was my little dream. The name and design of the towers are a reference to the city’s coat of arms, which depicts three lights. The first tower was built for offices, the second for hotels, and the third for apartments. The skyscrapers stand on the mountain and their heights are different (140, 160, 190m), although they look the same.
Their evening lighting will not leave anyone indifferent. There are flames of fire, and the flag of Azerbaijan, just the colors of the flag, people waving the flag, and just flickering. You can watch for a long, long time how their illumination changes.
From the outside the museum looks very beautiful. And inside there are about 14,000 pieces of carpets, costumes, jewelry, woodwork, glass, etc. Azerbaijani carpets are a form of national self-expression, life philosophy and, of course, household or luxury items.
But returning to Primorsky Boulevard, I would like to say that this is a favorite vacation spot for citizens and tourists. There is so much greenery, flowers, trees. Everything is incredibly neat and clean. Meanwhile, the Caspian Sea flooded the boulevard several times, until in 1998 the Baku residents raised the lower terrace of the boulevard by several meters. And now it bears the title of National Park. In June 2016, participants of the Formula 1 European Grand Prix raced along the Primorskaya embankment. The boulevard has many open-air cafes, fountains and sculptures. There are also several piers from which pleasure boats depart. The Lily fountain is installed in the sea. But we never found him working. Guidebooks write that its height is equal to the height of a 10-story building.
On the territory of the boulevard there is the so-called “Little Venice”. These are several channels with azure water, bridges, and green islands. Here you can rent a gondola and take a leisurely ride along the canals.
On the first day we were incredibly tired and could barely crawl home. Our legs were buzzing and “fell off”, but the pleasure we got from walking along the embankment was stronger.
On the second day we decided to go to the center by bus. To do this, you need to buy a Bakikart in a special terminal. This card costs 2 manats and requires a deposit. It applies to both buses and metro. The cost of travel to Baku is ridiculous - 0.2 manats. We took the metro to the Railway Station. Having bought a return ticket home, we set off to explore the old city (Icheri Sheher). Translated from Azerbaijani as “inner city”. For Russians, this place is familiar from the film “The Diamond Arm”. It was here, and not in Istanbul, that Leonid Gaidai filmed episodes of the film.
This is exactly the most famous place - “Damn it”, where Yuri Nikulin’s hero slipped and fell.
Over the past 40 years, the administration has not demolished a single house. Every pebble is preserved here. And at the same time, ordinary Baku residents live here. The streets of Icheri Sheher are indeed very narrow and it is incredibly easy to get lost in them. Just like the hero of Andrei Mironov)) We also got lost for a long time in a string of narrow streets and stairs.
All roads in Icheri Sheher will lead to the Maiden Tower. This is a symbol of the city, which, like the Flame Towers, is depicted on all souvenirs. The height of the tower is as high as a 10-story building, and the thickness of the walls reaches 5 meters. And, of course, there are a lot of legends around it and its construction. At the top there is an observation deck with a view of the entire old city. But we decided not to go up there.
The Mohammed Mosque competes with the Maiden Tower for the title of oldest building. Date of construction 1078 Archaeologists discovered that the mosque stands on the site of an older religious building and replicates its design. Islamic rules allow only men to enter the Mosque of Muhammad. Those entering bow their heads to Allah when they pass through a special arch below human height.
On the territory of the old city there are many historical monuments - baths, old minarets, mosques. For example, there is an interesting monument to the Azerbaijani poet Aliaga Vahid. Up close, you can see that the curls of his hair are mini-sculptures of the heroes of his work.
Coming out of Icheri Sheher you again find yourself in the park (in Baku you find yourself in a park everywhere). This is the Aliaga Wahid Garden or Philharmonic Garden. With an incredibly beautiful fountain inside and a wide variety of plants. Sometimes the imagination of gardeners is simply amazing. But at the same time, everything is done concisely and tastefully.
The next day we went on foot to Nagorny Park. I think this is the coolest observation deck in Baku; it offers views of the main attractions. And the Flame Towers are very close. See for yourself what wonderful views open from above. This place is a must visit.
After walking around the park, we went downstairs and went to Fountain Square. This is the first square of Baku, it was built in 1868 and called Parapet. Here the land had been trampled by city meetings and nothing grew on it. For a long time, the square was not landscaped because there were problems with water in Baku. Local residents suffered due to its lack. Moreover, there was nothing to water the plants with. But with the construction of the water supply system, this problem was solved and the square began to acquire beautiful features. The last time it was reconstructed was in 2010: the kiosks were removed, twice as many trees were planted, and red curved lanterns were installed. There are always a lot of people on the square. Everyone takes a leisurely stroll, enjoying the excellent weather and the beauty of the park.
The square leads us to the main pedestrian street of Baku - Nizami. It is a pleasure to walk along it. It reminded me a little of European streets. You can see the Ismailia Palace and the Mukhtarov Palace. There are a lot of different cafes, shops and hookah bars. We ended our day in one of the cafes.
Every tourist should see the Heydar Aliyev Center. The building has not a single straight line and not a single angle. It consists of smooth waves and transitions. Looks like a spaceship. The center's buildings were assembled like a mosaic of 12,000 snow-white panels, each with its own size and shape. The architect of the building, Zaha Hadid, is considered one of the most extraordinary and highly paid architects. There are several exhibitions inside the Center. The main one is the Heydar Aliyev Museum, which shows where the former president of Azerbaijan studied, where he served, what cars he drove and what he wore. In front of the center there is a park consisting of several tiers. There is almost always an open-air exhibition. And here is one of the most recognizable inscriptions of Baku.
We couldn't help but take advantage of the bike rental service and rented bikes for a couple of hours. They can easily get to the end of Primorsky Boulevard. And in the other direction to the Mayak restaurant and the Crystal concert hall, where the Eurovision Song Contest was held in 2012.
And this is the same thing, but in night lighting! Looks bomb!
Baku captivated me with its combination of modernity and heritage of the past. Everything looks so harmonious here. And, of course, the amount of greenery, trees and flowers is amazing. People are very kind and sympathetic. Baku gave us only positive emotions. I wanted to remember what I didn’t like there, but I couldn’t))
In conclusion, I would like to say that there are a huge number of places in Baku where you can go. And in the following articles I will tell you where we went and also about our trip outside the borders of Baku.
Warm, welcoming and the fast-paced “city of winds”, Baku is the perfect place to wind down on a long weekend. We found out from the locals what is worth doing if you are in the city for a couple of days.
Find "Tsigel-tsigel"
Vyacheslav Sapunov – journalist, editor, guide in Baku
Icheri Sheher (İçərişəhər) is a medieval fortified city separated by a high wall. Officially, the oldest building is the Mohammed Mosque of the 11th century, but Baku residents know that the Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası) is still ancient, it’s just that no one remembers when it was built. People who proudly call themselves “serfs” continue to live in Icheri Sheher. Other inhabitants of the fortress are souvenir and carpet traders who mix all the languages (don’t be afraid to bargain!), artists (check out Ali Shamsi’s workshop at Böyük Qala küçəsi, 84 or the Mir-Teymur Mamedov Ceramics Center at Müslüm Maqomayev küçəsi, 90), restaurateurs (go, for example, to the charming “Gaynana” on Kiçik Qala küçəsi, 126), bathhouse attendants (in the medieval hammam “Aga Mikail” on Qala küçəsi, 16 two days a week - women’s, the rest - men’s) and, of course, tourists looking for places with names understandable only to former citizens of the USSR: “Sjort Pobieri!” and “Tsigel-tsigel, ay-lu-lyu!” (the first is at the fortress wall just above the Polish embassy, the second is at the opposite end, on Sabir küçəsi). The countless cats that live in Icheri Sheher and, not without reason, consider themselves its owners, are completely indifferent to all of the above. Don't be afraid to get lost in the Old Town. The streets are confusing, but they will always lead to the embankment, the fortress gates, or the Icheri Sheher metro station.
Evaluate the new architecture
Sheida Novruz-zade, architect
During the era of the oil boom, Baku was filled with the creations of the best architects of the beginning of the last century - Joseph Ploshko (the palace of the philanthropist Murtuza Mukhtarov), Jozef Goslavsky (the building of the current Baku City Hall). Nowadays, new architectural landmarks appear in the capital every now and then. The best observation deck is next to the Nagorny Park, where you can go by cable car, nearby is the Flame Towers complex, which has become a symbol of the new Baku, and below is the National Park, also known as Primorsky Boulevard. A walk is a must: breathe in the sea, look at strange plants brought from all over the world (there is even a hundred-year-old baobab tree), have a snack overlooking the bay and appreciate the new architecture - the Mugam center, the Park Bulvar shopping center. The Carpet Museum (azcarpetmuseum.az) has a unique collection and itself looks like a work of art. The flowing forms of the Heydar Aliyev Center, the creation of Zaha Hadid, symbolize eternity. A huge building, snow-white inside and out, is a multifunctional site where exhibition halls, devoid of corners, flow into one another. There is a permanent exhibition about the history of the country and unique exhibitions from Alphonse Mucha to Andy Warhol. Another world star who left a mark on the architecture of the city is Norman Foster, his bureau developed the project in the eastern part of Baku Ağ Şəhər (“White City”).
VOSTOCK PHOTO “Flame Towers” Flame Towers are like the Eiffel Tower in Paris – visible from almost anywhere in the city.
Play with fire
Svetlana Gasanova, executive director of the travel company Aze Turizm
In the Gobustan Nature Reserve, located not far from the city, you can see thousands of rock paintings left by primitive people. According to some estimates, there are about 6,000 petroglyphs here! The story of how this unique place was discovered, chronicles of the first excavations and photographs of Thor Heyerdahl, who visited the “edge of ravines” twice, are collected in the ultra-modern museum. Nearby are mud volcanoes scattered across the cracked ground, an absolutely cosmic sight. Another miracle of nature is the burning Mount Yanardag. It’s better to come here in the evening to see how picturesque natural gas blazes. In the same part of the Baku suburb is the temple of fire worshipers Ateshgah in the village of Surakhani. And on the way to the airport there is the resort village of Mardakan, where the historical and ethnographic reserve “Gala” and the house-museum of Sergei Yesenin, where he lived with his wife Sofia Tolstoy in the summer of 1925, are located. The best beaches, by the way, are also here.
Find yours
Leyla Leysan, blogger, journalist
The best way to find out how to get there, where to go and what to buy, and at the same time find a guide, translator and driver, is to write a post in one of the Facebook groups for the query “Baku”. Word of mouth works flawlessly for us. In general, Baku hospitality is not a stereotype. We always try to show as much as possible and feed as deliciously as possible. It is customary for us to “walk the guest” at our own expense. Ask a local for directions - they will not only put you on the right bus, but also pay with your transport card.
Indulge in gluttony
Ellada Gorina, psychologist, writer
If you want to try real local cuisine, ask to visit. The “almost like home” option can be found near the ancient walls of Icheri Sheher, to which cozy restaurants are built. In Sehrli Təndir (Kiçik Qala küçəsi, 19), a nimble woman in a traditional headscarf snatches hot tandir-churek straight from the oven, which must be dipped in saj (a dish of meat and vegetables cooked over an open fire in a wide flat frying pan). At the Manqal restaurant ( manqal.az) – kutabs arranged in a fan and sprinkled with sumac, curved ribs of kebab and thin sheets of khingal with golden onions and curly minced meat. Breakfast is also good: pomidor yumurta - omelette with tomatoes in melted butter, white motal cheese aged in lamb skins, bread, honey, cream and white Absheron fig jam. In the Terrace Garden (Boyuk Gala, 20) you can watch the entire city, the Maiden Tower and the sea from the roof. If glamor and glitter are not a priority, it is better to stop at İstirahət restoranı (Həsən Salmani küçəsi, 7) - the prices are more than moderate, which cannot be said about the portions of kebabs, salads and fish. And when you want impressions, welcome to Telequlle (telequlle.az) - the restaurant in the TV tower rotates in a Sufi dance while they serve a portion of üç bacı, slowly simmered and lovingly stuffed with minced eggplants, tomatoes and peppers.
VOSTOCK PHOTO Hazelnuts, almonds and walnuts, which grow wildly on Absheron, are often used for local baking.
Listen to jazz
Tair Einullayev, Honored Artist, Head of the Choreography Department of the Gymnasium of Arts. A.N. Alekperova
Music in Baku can be heard even underground - in the metro the arrival of a train is announced by fragments of folk songs and works by national composers. Traditional mugham, recognized by UNESCO as a masterpiece of intangible cultural heritage, can be heard in every courtyard, and, of course, in the International Mugam Center on Primorsky Boulevard. These lyrical, philosophical, heartbreaking chants with and without accompaniment - for true researchers of folklore, will not appeal to everyone. The famous Baku jazz is, by the way, also based on mugham. Every autumn the International Jazz Festival takes place in Baku and brings together world stars. Concerts are often free and in amazing places, such as a Catholic church. In the spring, dancing, music and the famous Azerbaijani “rap” - meykhana (“Come on, goodbye!” - that’s it) fill the streets when the country celebrates Navruz on a large scale.
Sign up for a tasting
Aya Rufin, fashion photographer
Even in Soviet times, Azerbaijan was famous for its various grape varieties. During the anti-alcohol campaign, the vineyards were cut down, but in 2008, 7,000 hectares of vintage varieties were planted in the country, and Italians and French were invited to produce. And today in Baku you can enjoy an incredible amount of local wines. Don't miss the interesting and worthy white varieties of mattress, bayanshira, and kishmish. Well, an absolute surprise - pomegranate wine, a new and strange taste. There are many good enotecas and wine bars in Baku. Particularly popular are the Kefli bar (Tərlan əliyarbəyov, 4a), where the atmosphere is simple but cozy, as well as The Cork (Tərlan əliyarbəyov, 13F) and Room (Tərlan əliyarbəyov, 10).
Buy souvenirs
Delyara Vezirova, designer, founder of the ZZor brand
For shopping, I recommend Spot Concept Store (Bülbül prospekti, 37B), where local designer brands are presented (bonus - delicious coffee). Another giant in the handmade goods market is the Ninkacards studio (ninkacards.com). Here you can shop in full: designer postcards, eco-bags with national patterns, traditional silk kelagai scarves, silver jewelry with the classic Azerbaijani symbol - buta. A new place of “pilgrimage” for all Baku residents, young and old, is the huge Baku Book Center (bakubookcenter.az). Here you can not only sit and read any book on the shelf all day, but also pick up a souvenir with a national theme in the I love Baku department.
(The best Baku souvenirs are antiques, antique carpets and household items. Photo: age / East News)
Bargain
Elbay Kasimzade, Chairman of the Union of Architects of Azerbaijan
The oldest bazaar in Baku is the market square in Icheri Sheher behind the Maiden Tower. Now they sell souvenirs and antiques here. And products are bought at the New Market Təzə bazar on Samed Vurgun Street (Səməd Vurğun küçəsi). It was built in Soviet times as an alternative to the semi-legal bazaar in the Kubinka area, where you could buy anything from a rusty nail to a machine gun and even a French coat. The beautiful, granite-lined and very large Yaşıl bazar (Green Bazaar) on Khatai Avenue is inexpensive, but native Baku residents continue to go to Təzə bazar. I've been buying greens there all my life from the same seller. I started going to the market when I was about 18, and the greengrocer was then a 14-year-old boy, helping his father. Today we already meet as brothers. When you first come to the Baku market, you need to patiently walk around the entire bazaar and understand the logistics, catch the movement, understand why people go first in one direction and only then in another. If you want to buy the legendary Baku tomatoes, listen to the aroma. If they smell, it's them.
Coordinates
How to get there: p Aeroflot (aeroflot.ru), Azal (azal.az), S7 (s7.ru) and UTair (utair.ru) have direct flights to Baku. From 5000 rub.
Visa: not required.
Season
The most pleasant time in Baku is the second half of spring. But roses bloom here in November, and sunglasses can come in handy even on a February day. The hottest month is August, the air temperature rises to +45 °C in the shade. The swimming season lasts from May to September inclusive.
Transport
The Baku metro has two long lines, and traveling in the subway is quite convenient, especially since the main attractions are located within walking distance from the stations. You can also ride buses, most of which are red, with a route board showing stops. Payment is made only by magnetic cards; they can be purchased and topped up at some ground transport stops and at all metro stations. There are an incredible number of taxi services in Baku. When ordering by phone, you will be immediately told the approximate cost. A trip from the airport to the city center will cost from 10 AZN. The most impressive (and expensive) taxi ride is in the "Eggplants", London cabs that were brought to Baku on the eve of Eurovision 2014 and repainted purple.
Description of the national cuisine of Azerbaijan is a multi-page work. In short, the food in Absheron is hearty, often fatty, and the most delicious is always with lamb. From Soviet cuisine, local restaurants got Olivier (in Baku they call it “capital”), herring under a fur coat, which is often prepared without herring, and homemade borscht. Baku residents prefer establishments without unnecessary gloss and shine; they eat fish only in restaurants by the sea in the area of the Bibi-Heybat mosque. It is impossible not to mention the seasonality of local cuisine. The summer menu includes everything that is cooked with vegetables - dolma (in the Baku version - tiny dolmushki), mangal salads (fire-baked eggplant with tomatoes, onions, herbs, seasoned with oil), green beans with onions and eggs, dovga ( summer soup similar to okroshka with kefir). In winter, they prefer hearty, flour-based foods - dushpyarya (small dumplings, they are always served with broth, to which they add a spoonful of grape vinegar and garlic), khingal (boiled thin leaves of dough under minced meat with onions), kufta-bozbash (rich soup with huge meatballs, potatoes and chickpeas). People eat kutabs (thin crescent-shaped flatbreads with various fillings from meat and giblets to cheese and pumpkin) and pilaf, the variations of which you won’t be able to figure out in three days, all year round. The most popular holiday shah-pilaf is rice “packed” in thin lavash leaves, inside of which there is meat, onions, chestnuts, and dried fruits. Azerbaijani pastries, sweet and salty, deserve a separate volume. Baku residents can snack on the sun-like shor-gogal, a multi-layered round pie with a salty spice filling, and on the holiday there will definitely be shekerbura (a pie with ground nuts and granulated sugar) and baklava on the table. All this can be bought in almost any store, but it is better to buy baked goods in pastry shops and shops at private bakeries.
Souvenirs
Pillows, rag bags, ceramic cups and plates with national patterns, salt and pepper shakers with images of colorful cats, paintings by contemporary Azerbaijani artists at an affordable price can be found at the Chelebi brand, their shops are scattered throughout the city, and the largest is near the PortBaku complex. In the Old Town you can buy a traditional souvenir in the form of a pomegranate and copper products, pear-shaped cups of armuda, from which they drink tea here. The most expensive souvenir is a carpet. If you want to buy it at a normal price, take a local with you; the price for Baku residents is always several times lower. The best edible souvenirs are white cherry jam and feijoa from Absheron white figs from Bizim tarla.
Housing
Luxury chain hotels are widely represented in Baku, most of them are located in the center - Four Seasons Hotel Baku, Hilton Baku, Marriott Absheron Baku, Pullman Baku, The Landmark Hotel Baku. Prices start from €150 depending on the season and hotel.
Prices
1 Azerbaijani manat ≈ 38 rubles*
5 AZN – kettle of brewed tea
0.5 AZN – Qutab with meat
2.5 AZN – Kilogram of tomatoes in the store
0.3 AZN – Travel by land transport
15 AZN – ticket to the Heydar Aliyev Center
70 AZN – Kalagai – silk scarf with a pattern
145 AZN – Room at the Pullman Baku hotel
6 AZN – Glass of wine
12 AZN – Entrance to the Maiden Tower
1 AZN – Funicular ride
14 AZN – Ticket to a performance at the Puppet Theater
3 AZN – Jar of white cherry jam
*Rate at the time of publication
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This is the story of the own correspondent of the blog “Roads of the World”,. You are already familiar with him if you have read the stories– Myanmar (formerly Burma), where he lived for a year and a half. This time the wind of wanderings brought him to Azerbaijan...
He lives in Baku, in the capital of the Land of Fire. This country is named so in honor of the ancient cult of fire worship - Zoroastrianism.
The cult of the Sun was widespread throughout Greater Iran, and now communities of fire worshipers remain in Azerbaijan. Fire is depicted on the state emblem of Azerbaijan. Although most of the population professes Islam. And on the country’s flag there is a crescent with a star.
Azerbaijan borders on Russia (Dagestan), Georgia, Iran and Armenia (with the latter, the border is locked after the Karabakh conflict)... The Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic, part of which is under the control of the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, part of which is controlled by Azerbaijan, is located on the border with Turkey.
Azerbaijan is the largest country in Transcaucasia. It is rich in natural and architectural monuments.
The country has a rich climatic diversity, and out of 11 known climatic zones of our planet, 9 are in Azerbaijan - from subtropics to high alpine meadows. There is also the Caspian Sea, mud volcanoes, nature reserves and balneological resorts.
But let's get acquainted with the impressions of a person who saw for the first time...
Golden streets of Baku
Baku is the city of winds. I have heard this definition of him many times. And if we literally translate the name of the city from ancient Persian, it sounds like this: “blow of the wind.”
The winds, I tell you, are really quite strong here. This is due to the geographical location of the city. Perched on a mountainside at the southern tip of the Absheron Peninsula, Baku is exposed to any wind.
Having its origins on the seashore in ancient times, the city grew evenly up the mountainside. Geographical features left their mark on the layout of the city.
But let's get back to the title. There is another version. And according to it, the name of the city of Baku comes from the word “baga”, which in many ancient languages means “God” and “Sun”. Considering that the sun itself is the god for sun worshipers, this version seems very plausible. In addition, one of the main temples of sun worshipers was previously located in Baku...
My first impression of the city is an oriental fairy tale, the city of Scheherizade. Yes, this particular image has been imprinted in my head since childhood.
Houses with emphasized Arabic (I hope I'm not mistaken with the terminology) architecture. The unusual golden sandy color of the houses...
And what is the value of the old city, preserved for posterity in the form in which it was at the beginning of the 20th century?
Now I already understand how the city got this appearance. Modern mayors simply “dressed” old Soviet-era houses in such fabulous clothes. And a number of historical buildings were brought into appropriate shape.
Although, if you dive into the depths of the Baku streets, a far from fairy-tale picture appears before your eyes.
But we must give it its due - the city is growing, the slums are being demolished and modern houses are being built in their place, but with a national flavor.
Yes, another element of fabulousness is the building material – stone.
It is mined near Baku and is widely used in all buildings instead of brick.
And another type of stone is used for finishing. It is its characteristic yellow-sand color that gives the city its fabulous appearance. In the bright southern sun, houses take on a beautiful golden color.
There are also a large number of fountains and parks in Baku.
And I must say - not in vain. They not only emphasize the fabulous appearance of the city, but also give citizens the opportunity to relax in the shade on hot days and breathe in fresh, humidified air.
And the main vacation spot in Baku is undoubtedly the embankment.
Baku embankment. On the left is the Caspian Sea. In the background are the TV tower and the Flame Towers building complex.
About 5 km long (here Internet reference data varies, but my legs say it’s about that), the Baku seaside boulevard is a large park with fountains and attractions.
You can walk here for a long time, and in the evenings and on weekends many townspeople flock here...
Flame Towers, or Flame Towers, are the tallest buildings in Azerbaijan
In general, Baku is a very beautiful city. Did you like it?
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The most interesting facts about Baku
Initially, oil production began here. Azerbaijan can rightfully be considered the world's storehouse of black gold! Oil production continues to this day to supply our country and neighboring countries.
Baku was considered one of the most beautiful and promising cities in the USSR. Tourists from all over the world came here, bypassing the famous Leningrad and Moscow. Noticing the high attraction of travelers to Baku, the Soviet government decided to develop a tourism focus here. Therefore, the first electric train of the Soviet Union was launched in Baku for the first time!
Modern methods of transportation
Nowadays only the most modern vehicles are used here to travel within the country.
Azerbaijan is famous for its healing mud volcanoes
Nowhere in the world is there such a unique collection of useful geysers! There are about 350 active volcanoes here, and there are 800 in total worldwide.
Azerbaijan in Dali's painting
In 1943, Salvador Dali painted the famous painting “The Geopolitical Infant”. Of course, this is not just a canvas and not just a baby - it is a metaphor for the world. The woman in the painting points her finger at Azerbaijan as a man emerges from a rift in North America. Researchers believe that Azerbaijan, according to Dali, is the center of the universe.
Baku is called the “city of lights”
One might think that this is due to the active activity of city residents even at night. In fact, in the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a sacred flame has been burning for many centuries due to the release of gas in Surakhani.
And at sunrise, the stalactites that decorate the Khan’s Palace reflect the light and shimmer like precious stones. It is believed that the Great Khan inspects his possessions before going to bed.
