Cheb in the Czech Republic. Glorious hub city Practical information for independent travelers

Been to the Czech Republic many times. And in Prague, and in Cesky Krumlov, in Karlovy Vary, Marianske Lazne, Frantiskovy Lazne, Loket and many more places. And alone, and with his wife, and with his son...

I came to Prague for the first time. With Amigo Tours. We arrived by train. I was delighted with the city. I spent a week exploring the center and all the pubs there on foot. I was tired as a dog, but I was happy. Prices are about the same as in Moscow (at least in the center). Service everywhere is at a very good level. There is only one problem - people from all over the world go there in droves, you will meet them from any direction of the world.

This is the second time I’ve already tried Prague - it’s an attraction city that the Czechs quickly took over in the early 90s. And he decided to move deeper into the country, guided by the message that the real country is always in the outback. I chose the city of Heb. In the far west of the Czech Republic. It is very convenient to travel to Hub - a carriage departs from the Belorussky Railway Station to Hub every day. Our carriage is very comfortable.

KHEB is an old imperial city, 100 years older than Moscow. In the 11th century, it was ruled by Emperor Barbarossa, known to everyone for the sad and tragic events of 1941. The city itself is largely German- Czech city. for its thousand years, more precisely 950, it belonged to everyone, including Louis of Bavaria. and the Czech king and Austria-Hungary, and in modern history and the German Reich is 7 years old. This city still has the same history. Accordingly, there are also monuments in the city and district. The City alone is worth it; Barbarossa built it. Lots of monasteries. I like to relax after lunch in the Monastery Garden in warm weather.

The city itself is the old part, which is concentrated around the Castle and the Market Square (Markt), and the new one. Well, the new one is interesting, but the old one is like an open-air museum. All houses are old, but in excellent condition. We must give the Czechs their due - they know how to preserve their heritage. In the center of the Markt there is a symbol of Heb - a complex of buildings called Špalicek (stump) with a restaurant of the same name. Quite pretentious and expensive by local standards - dinner per person with beer, Becherovka, a huge dish and coffee will cost 300 crowns with a tip of 350 (450 -500 rubles). Don't make the mistake of only getting one dish at Heb. You just pick at the second one anyway, you won’t be able to eat it. The downside is the Stella Artois beer. 30 CZK Why? Unclear. In the neighboring cafes there are Krušovice and Gambrinus and Hradební, but you never know..

Hub is the administrative center of the Karlovy Vary Region. To Germany: to Bavaria - 3 km. to Saxony - 10 km. The railway is very developed. To get to the resort of Frantiskovy Lazne by train, a two-car diesel is 7 minutes away and 11 CZK one way, but it’s better to immediately take a two-way ticket - it’s cheaper. Karlovy Vary is 40 km away. The highway to K.V. is currently being completed. 25 minutes by car. On the way you can stop by Loket - also a cool old town. Marianske Lazen is 28 km away. The road is good, but in the Czech Republic in cities there are 50 km, and often 30, 40. And there are radars that take pictures of you. If the car has Russian license plates, then of course they will spit on speeding, but if it is rented, then they may have time to send a fine - and a rather large one. You should only drive on the autobahn with a stamp under glass, for at least a week. CZK 250. Otherwise, a fine of CZK 5,000.

Restaurants and cafes in Heb: On the square I recommend Špalicek, Sklepik, Jiřego s Podebrady. that on Jatečnaya Street and Markt, you can drink coffee everywhere, but it’s better in Bartolomeus. There is also Zhidovska Street - at the very end of the square to the left. There are a lot of pubs there and you can go to any one, the beer there is excellent everywhere. Go from one to the other in a zigzag. It’s 200 meters to the end of the street, but if there’s a mug in every beerhouse, it’s hard to stay on your feet. You only need to remember one phrase - one beer, please. Beer please.

At the very end And Dovskoy st. On the left is the pension "U Kata" (At the Executioner's). The owner Dusan speaks Russian very well. On the second floor he has a boarding house - 4 double rooms and an apartment. The rooms are quite decent, and there is a beer hall on the ground floor. Note - the more beer you drink, the cheaper it is. Now Gambrinus light from Dusan costs 22 crowns, prices have decreased by 2 crowns over the year. DECREASED. For two people to drink plenty of beer - 130-150 CZK. get drunk.

If you don’t want to sit in the hall, they’ll pour it up to your room. The price for a room is CZK 350 per person. Those. 700 CZK per room. For apartments for 4 people. 1500 CZK. The pension is popular. One day in the spring, on May 8th (the Americans freed them), a brass band played all night in the pub. It’s cool, but we had to leave for Moscow by car in the morning, so at that moment it made us angry. And now I think about it with feelings - here they live. And in December 2008, before Christmas, near Zhidovskaya, I saw about 5 guys walking under the windows, playing Christmas melodies and moving on, like caroling.

Czechs, according to my observations, drink beer, but not a lot - 2-3 mugs per evening. Although, of course, it also happens that they fall under the table - I saw it myself. But this is not typical, unless someone gives a free treat.

Shopping can be done in Germany - excellent train connections. A hub is a large transport hub. You can use the EGERNET system. The fact is that Heb (German name Eger) was the center of the Principality of Eger, which included the lands of present-day Saxony and Bavaria. Now the EU, together with Germany and the Czech Republic, is pursuing a policy of unification - with this ticket you can travel cheaply in both Germany and the Czech Republic. Marktredwitz is 20 minutes away. You can take the train directly to Nuremberg, Bayreuth, Wunsiedl, Zwickau.

Well, the story turned out to be quite confusing, but I have a lot of impressions from Hebu. But I like it most in the Czech Republic.

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There are many places in the Czech Republic that are completely undeservedly ignored by tourists. These include the city of Cheb, located in the western part of the Czech region near the border with Germany. The influence of German culture is very strongly felt in almost everything in the city. Many residents of Cheb still divide themselves into Germans and Czechs. Finding yourself on main square city, for a moment you may get the impression that you are in Germany. Only the inscriptions in Czech will bring you back to reality.

You will undoubtedly remember architectural ensemble Shpalichek, consisting of charming colorful houses. Not far away you can see the towers of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Elizabeth. There are a great number of church buildings in Cheb. And you can’t ignore the iconic building of Cheb - a medieval Romanesque castle, which is famous for the Black Tower and the fortress chapel of Saints Erhart and Ursula.

Bus tickets

Departure city

Arrival city

Travel date Exact date +2 days +/-3 days +6 days

Cheb Castle

Cheb's most outstanding attraction is the Romanesque castle of the same name, shrouded in secrets and legends, according to which it is still haunted to this day. It was built in the 12th century and, like many structures of this kind, served a defensive function. The Black Tower rises in the castle courtyard. It received this name because of the material used for its construction - volcanic tuff, which has a dark color. It is a square structure (9x9 m) with 3 floors and a height of 18.5 m. The difficult climb into the tower will be compensated by the beautiful views that open from observation deck. Opposite the Black Tower is another unique building of the castle - the chapel of Saints Erhart and Ursula in the early Gothic style. Tours of the chapel offer two levels for inspection, the first of which in ancient times was intended for the stay of commoners, and therefore darkness and poverty reign there. The second floor, on the contrary, is full of luxury and wealth. After all, it served as a chamber for the emperor and his family.

Ticket price:

Adult: 60 CZK
Children (6-15 years old), students, disabled people: 30 CZK
Family (2 adults + 2 children): 140 CZK
Supplement for excursion support: CZK 20 per person
Children under 6 years old, disabled people: free

Cheb Castle opening hours

Saturday-Sunday: 10:00-15:00 January, February, November, December
Saturday-Sunday: 10:00-17:00 March
Tuesday-Sunday: 10:00-17:00 April, May
Tuesday-Sunday: 10:00-18:00 June
Monday-Sunday: 10:00-18:00 July, August
Tuesday-Sunday: 10:00-17:00 September, October

“Block” - this is the translation of the name of the patch of small houses in the city square. These 11 houses, which make up the entire Gothic complex, were built in the 13th century and are considered the hallmark of Cheb. In old times they served as housing for Jewish traders. The old houses stand close to each other, but somewhere between them there is a small passage, which is only a little more than 1.5 m wide. It conventionally serves as a divider of the medieval quarter into 2 parts.

One of the church's dominant features is the ancient Church of Saints Nicholas and Elizabeth. It was erected at the beginning of the 13th century and had pronounced Romanesque features. After suffering a fire in 1742, the temple was reconstructed and acquired a Gothic style. The temple building amazes with its splendor both outside and inside. The exterior of the church is favorably emphasized by the staircase leading directly to the entrance to the temple. It has the outline of a circle, with steps on either side, and is decorated with several statues of saints. The church building has two towers, the sharp peaks of which reach to the sky. The huge stained glass windows and frescoes that are painted on the columns inside the church will cause indescribable delight.

Conducting religious services
Sunday: 8:50 in summer time

Ticket price:
Voluntary donation

Schedule of excursion tours of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Alzbeta
Daily: 10:00-17:00 spring, autumn (except during religious services)

Church of St. Wenceslas

The Church of St. Wenceslas is another outstanding church building, located opposite the Church of Saints Nicholas and Elizabeth. Previously, there was a church in its place and convent. The baroque church itself was built between 1674 and 1688. After the reconstruction, the church building has undergone significant changes, but its main facade is still decorated with a magnificent portal. You can visit the church only by prior arrangement.

Conducting religious services
Friday: 18:00 during summer time
Sunday: 8:50 in winter time

Church of St. Bartholomew

The construction of the church building dates back to 1414. Once its owner was the Order of the Crusaders. The exterior is made in Gothic style, but the interior design is more remarkable. The main hall of the church is crowned with a magnificent fan vault, which is supported by a single central column. During World War II, the church building was badly damaged, but in subsequent years, after reconstruction, the medieval panels and wall frescoes were restored. Currently, the Church of St. Bartholomew is closed to the public, but you can wander around the building and touch another shrine of Cheb.

Transport

Cheb is an important railway junction, with important routes passing through it. Public transport represented by bus routes. They operate from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., with the exception of one line, which also operates at night. The fare for an adult is 12 CZK, for children aged 6 to 15 years, students (15-26 years old) - 6 CZK. Transportation of large luggage or animals will cost 6 CZK. Free travel is available to children under 6 years of age, disabled people and government officials.
If you travel and use own car, then you need to keep in mind that some parking spaces in the city are paid. The cost of 30 minutes of parking will be 10 CZK, and each subsequent hour will cost 20 CZK.

At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing to do in this small town and it is not worth spending time on it at all. But, once on its territory, you realize that this is far from the case. It will take you a lot of time to get acquainted with some of the iconic architectural buildings. In the summer, Cheb turns into a real platform where cultural events follow one another. These include theatrical knightly performances in Cheb Castle, the traditional celebration of Wallenstein Day, and organ music concerts.

Cheb(Czech Cheb [ˈxɛp]), former. Eger(German) Eger) - a city in the Czech Republic, on the Ohře River. Located on the western border of the Czech Republic with Germany, the population is 32 thousand people. Administrative center of the Cheb district.

Story

The construction of the first stone city on the site of a Slavic settlement is associated with the German colonization policy of the early Middle Ages.

In the 11th century, the former Slavic settlement became part of the Holy Roman Empire as part of the Staufen possessions. The city had the status of an imperial city.

In 1157, Cheb was inherited by the German Emperor (Kaiser) Friedrich Barbarossa, who rebuilt the old city into an imperial palatinate.

During the reign of King John, the city, as a hereditary pledge, was finally annexed to the lands of the Czech crown, having the advantage of an independent land with its own diet. The Czech king George of Poděbrady also used Cheb’s services for his political purposes.

In the 16th century, the inhabitants of Cheb began to accept Protestantism. On February 25, 1634, Generalissimo of the Imperial troops Albrecht von Wallenstein was killed in the building of the current Cheb Museum.

In the second half of the 17th-18th centuries, the city was rebuilt in the Baroque style. Architects K. Dientzenhofer, A. Leuter, P. Bayer, B. Alliprandi, A. Pfeiffer participated in the reconstruction.

The population of the city welcomes the German troops. October 1938

After the end of the First World War, the city and its districts were transferred to the Czechoslovak state created on the territory of the former Habsburg Empire (Austria-Hungary). This entailed a deterioration in relations between the Germans and other residents. The English Prime Minister Lloyd George presciently pointed out that the fall of a significant part of the German population under the jurisdiction of the newly formed states would inevitably lead to a new world war. The harbinger of this was the Sudetenland crisis, which was resolved by the bloodless entry of German troops into Czechoslovakia.

Notable residents

Balthasar Neumann - architect, born in Cheb, became famous for construction cathedral in Wurzburg.
Friedrich Schiller - collected materials for his work “Waldstein Trilogy” in Cheb.
Johann Wolfgang Goethe had many friends here, including a 90-year-old executioner, one of the last representatives of this profession.
Pavel Nedved is a famous football player for Juventus and the Czech national team.
Albrecht von Wallenstein.

Culture

Since 1970, the traditional youth brass band festival FIJO has been held in Cheb every 2 years. Cheb has its own museum, a theater with a permanent stage, and a State Gallery visual arts, a number of private galleries and a regional library.

Attractions

The area of the imperial fortress with city fortifications (11th century on the site of a former Slavic settlement of the 9th-10th centuries), bergfried (Black Tower)
Chapel of St. Earhart and Ursula
ruins of the Palatinate (palace) of Frederick Barbarossa
George Poděbradsky Square
Church of St. Nicholas and St. Alzhbeta (Nicholas and Elizabeth)
Shpalicek, a complex of merchant houses,
unfinished town hall designed by Alliprandi (1723-28)
former church of St. Clara (1708-12), architect K. Dietzenhofer (presumably).
Church of St. Wenceslas (XVII century)
Franciscan church at the Minorite monastery (mid-12th century)
city museum (since 1873), in the Pachelbel house, in the building of which Albrecht von Wallenstein was killed.
Church of St. Bartholomew
Gabler's house

Hail, Black Tower

Imperial Palatinate

Flowers on the main square

Cheb- a town 40 km southwest of Karlovy Vary. Included in the list world heritage UNESCO. The main attraction is the colorful old houses surrounding the central square of Cheb. Around the square there is a small grid of the same ancient cobbled streets.

If Karlovy Vary is a Russian city, then Cheb is the patrimony of the German burghers. The street speaks and screams exclusively in German. Menus and signs are only in German and Czech. The service staff does not understand Russian in principle. Because of this, I spent an extra hour at the Cheb station, as I missed my train. Well, it’s impossible to come to an agreement with the Czech woman at the cash register!

I have already said that Czech railways are the most Soviet railways in the world. Train and bus timetables have either been disrupted since the Velvet Revolution, or are so indigestible that month-long courses need to be held to study the logic of these strange scraps of paper. Buses and trains in the schedules are indicated to some godforsaken stops and you need to have an excellent knowledge of Czech geography to guess, for example, that the route “Ash-Khomutov” is actually “Heb-Karlovy Vary”.

There is no decent map anywhere on the walls, nothing is indicated on the ticket, the lady at the ticket office is silent, like a partisan. The maximum that can be squeezed out of it is the departure time. And then, with a ticket in your hands and the treasured number in your head, you begin to study in detail all the pieces of paper stuck on the walls. Oh, so many of them! If you're lucky, you'll find a similar flight in small print somewhere in the middle of one of the scraps. If you're unlucky, you'll be jumping on platforms, trying to figure out which train/bus is yours.

By the way, the main Prague bus station Florenc is a song! Such a wretched establishment could only be seen somewhere in Nizhny Tagil during the era of glasnost and perestroika in the late 80s.

However, further about Hebe. The city is German. The city is cheap. And it seems that poor Germans are coming here en masse for the weekend to relax, eat and buy clothes from local Czech-Vietnamese merchants. The Vietnamese generally form a very noticeable trading stratum in the Czech lands. Even in the westernmost region of Cheb, they accept and process the main flow of Euros from the German buyer. The Czechs are sleeping at this time. It's funny: a Czech city where the Vietnamese are pushing Chinese clothes onto the Germans. Why the Czechs are needed at this crossroads of Europe and Asia is generally unclear. Renovate the scenery or something...

Looking at the border Cheb, you understand that even the most pro-Western Czech Republic is still much closer to Russia than to Europe. Well, everything here is the same as in the Russian provinces! It’s worth driving a few kilometers to Germany or Austria - and life, people, situations change radically.

Frantiskovy Lazne

5 km from Cheb is the most small resort the famous West Bohemian spa trinity - Frantiskovy Lazne(Frantiskovy Lazne). Buses leave from Cheb station every half hour. Ticket - 12 CZK. Travel time is 15-20 minutes.

The town is small - in fact, these are hotels and villas of the 19th century, lost on a vast territory among endless parks, gazebos and springs. All buildings are painted in different shades of yellow. A dense carpet of fallen leaves rustles underfoot. The autumn atmosphere is such that it seems that Pushkin is about to come out from around the corner. The complete impression is that you are somewhere in Tsarskoe Selo, and not on the border with Germany.

The symbol of the city is the little boy Frantisek who caught a fish. They even erected a monument to him here. Judging by the polished nose and genitals, touching these places brings some kind of happiness to those suffering.

In the casino-restaurant (the most beautiful building on the edge of the park) they immediately sent us a Russian-speaking waiter. That is, they still speak Russian here. Interesting feature This restaurant has a completely glass floor under which fish swim.

By the way, this casino has very good food and even serves various desserts for free. True, I was somewhat disappointed with the wine - the cost of one glass turned out to be higher than the cost of the entire meal.

You can't hear any Russians in the city, but there is a Russian church. And just like in Karlovy Vary, this is one of the most noticeable buildings in the city. Russian churches look very harmonious in such resort towns and at the same time stand out sharply against the general background of buildings, creating a visual point of attraction. I don’t know what the results of various government projects to whitewash the image of Russia in Europe and the United States are, but Russian churches abroad, with their silent beauty and originality, have been doing the same thing steadily and effectively for many decades. It is impossible to pass by them, they cannot be ignored.

How many times have I seen this picture - multilingual tourists slowly strolling along the streets, taking out their cameras right next to Russian churches, completely ignoring the nearby luxurious villas and gloomy churches of local concessions. Our churches, these drops of Russia, are the best advertisement for the country in the world.

I heard about the city of Cheb, which is located near the German border, a long time ago from my friend, who at one time did an internship in Weiden, Germany, and periodically visited this small town with German colleagues. My friend went there to smoke weed, and his German friends went there for the services of cheap Czech prostitutes. But instead of prostitutes, the Germans received pills and without mobile phones and the money was returned back to Germany. A friend told me such things that I couldn’t even believe that this was possible in Europe on the border with Germany.

Therefore, when my friends and I were planning a trip to Prague, we decided to stop by Cheb and see the city with our own eyes. What can I say - what I saw did not disappoint. After half an hour of walking, we left Cheb with the desire to never return here again.

Cheb is close to the Czech-German border and is located close to Bavarian cities such as Weiden and Hof. Immediately after crossing the border and entering the territory Czech Republic the landscape outside the window changes. Rare (it’s not evening yet) and very scary prostitutes appear along the road, resembling something between a zombie and a mummy. Below I will tell you what is the reason for this.