Another amazing place in Gagra - the castle of Prince Oldenburg. Every tourist who comes to Gagra should visit there, because this castle is the initial step in the history of the development of Gagra. Like any tourist, I was attracted by this castle for its interesting story, architecture and picturesque surroundings. If you are vacationing in Gagra, then you should definitely take a walk to the castle of Prince Oldenburg. Now I’ll tell you how to get to it without difficulty.
How to get to the castle
So, the very first question is how to get there?
The castle of Prince Oldenburg is located in the old part of the city of Gagra. It is located near the Zhoekvara River, on the slope of Mount Mamzyshkha. If you want to take a walk and relax, then next to the castle there is a magnificent Seaside Park where you can enjoy the surrounding nature.
Thus, you can get to the castle of the Prince of Oldenburg:
History of the Prince of Oldenburg Castle
The castle begins its history with one of the most noble families of Oldenburg. What kind of dynasty is this?
This branch begins with a small branch, namely the Holstein-Gottorp family of the Oldenburg family. Once they were excellent rulers of this small possession, and a little later the glorious county of Oldenburg was formed. If we recall the history of the Romanov dynasty, then Prince Alexander Petrovich was their closest relative. Thus, the great-grandson of Emperor Paul was Prince Alexander Petrovich of Oldenburg.
One of his most important decisions is the establishment of a unique resort on the Gagra coast. In those days it was called the second Nice. It is here that the prince decides to begin building his castle. The architect I. Lucerne was appointed to supervise all construction work, since he was very educated and loved new styles and trends in the art of that time. Therefore, the castle was built in a completely new and unique Art Nouveau style. This was very atypical for that time!
The palace was finally completed in 1902. And the next year, a wonderful vacation spot was built near the castle - the Primorsky Park.
A variety of bushes and trees from all over the world were brought and planted here. Cypress trees, date palms, cork oak, pink olendras, magnolias, araucarias and many, many others.
During Soviet rule, the house of the Prince of Oldenburg was converted into a sanatorium named after. Stalin, it was here that the entire Soviet elite came to rest.
Somewhat later it became known as the “Chaika” sanatorium.
The castle fell into the combat zone during the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict (1992-1993) and was very badly damaged. Walking past it, you can see traces of bullets and other projectiles. But the palace survived and has survived to this day.
Description of the castle
And so we arrived at the castle of Prince Oldenburg. The huge stone structure with a bright red tiled roof immediately catches your eye.
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Every tourist wants to look at it not only from the outside, but also to take a walk inside the castle itself. I note that this must be done very carefully, since it is in disrepair.
Still, we took a chance and went into the castle itself. I immediately drew attention to the rooms that once shone with expensive decoration with paintings still remaining on the walls, beautiful columns near the landing, fireplaces and windows of different shapes and sizes.
Unfortunately, we were only able to walk through a few rooms; the rest were completely destroyed. Peeling paint, debris and broken glass indicate that urgent repairs and restoration are needed. 
Extreme seekers can be advised to get to the round window and watch the area from the top Old Gagra. From there you have a beautiful view of the sea and the city itself!
When we left the castle, we were immediately struck by a picturesque tower called Sokolnichnaya. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful buildings of the castle. It is clearly visible from anywhere in the Old Gagra area, especially from the embankment. They say that it was from this tower that the prince once hunted local birds.
Excursions to the castle
The Gagrypsh restaurant sometimes conducts excursions to the castle for its guests. Its approximate cost is 700-1000 rubles. May be on different days (they may change, so you need to check with the organizers).
Those who want to save money can get to the castle on their own. Many travelers come here on their own to admire the beauty.
It is worth clarifying a very important point. Since the castle is in disrepair, it is now officially closed for excursions (except for excursions for guests of the Gagrypsh restaurant). However, no one forbade anyone from entering the territory of Oldenburg Castle.
Therefore, if desired, tourists can even go up to the top floor. True, I did not do this for security reasons.
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We were very pleased with our trip to the castle of Prince Oldenburg! Despite the fact that today it is in a very poor condition. We, like every tourist visiting the castle, believe that one day it will be transformed and shine like in the old days. Then you will be able to see all its original beauty both inside and outside!
I tried to make a new, “pixelated” version of the restoration of Prokudin-Gorsky’s photograph of ‘Gagra’. View of the palace [of the Prince of Oldenburg] from the pier’. I corrected hundreds of the most noticeable defects in the emulsion layer, but thousands of microdamages still remain (they can only be seen with zoom).
And our friend Sergei Prokhorov, a true expert on the Old Gagra, will tell you about the dramatic history of this wonderful monument.
Original taken from spupper in post
Palace of His Imperial Highness
“Over Gagra, on a cliff - beautiful and formidable - rises a castle, it was once the property of the Prince of Oldenburg. Now there is a malaria station, and single residents live at the top. The wonderful building is not used at all, it is kept in a shamefully dirty state, no one cares about it no matter. As soon as I went down the stairs of the castle, I went straight to the garden. In the garden there is a round gray fountain, black lampreys swim in the fountain, rubbing against the cooling black bottles of wine. The tables in the garden are always crowded."This is how the Soviet writer Dmitry Furmanov saw the famous palace when he visited Gagra in 1926. Today, the building that was once a luxurious palace is a shapeless and unkempt stone mass that hangs over the highway at the entrance to Gagra. If Furmanov had a chance to see it again now, then, I think, it would have struck the writer with its desolation and worthlessness much more strongly.
Photo opens in large size
This cliff, apparently, was not chosen by chance by the prince to build his residence. It is located in the narrowest part of the ancient Circassian route with North Caucasus in Transcaucasia (the so-called Gagrinsky Passage). Since Alexander Petrovich conceived not just a resort, but small state in a state with its own rules and exemplary discipline, he certainly had to be aware of everything that was happening in every corner of “his” possessions. The palace was located in such a way that, towering over Old Gagra, it was, at the same time, close enough to the town so that everything that was happening could be seen and heard from above. The entire life of the resort took place below and around the palace. From there there were magnificent panoramic views the entire Gagra Bay, the park, hotels, pier, the highway from the Adler side was visible in the distance. Clearly there were numerous service buildings and a market in the Zhoekvar Gorge. The castle on the ledge of a steep cliff became literally a “nest of nobility”, “retinue” of Prince A.P. Oldenburgsky.
Some sources, in my opinion, groundlessly, date the beginning of construction of the palace to 1898. In fact, it began to be built simultaneously with the first buildings of the Climate Station. At the time of the landing of the expedition to found the resort, led by the Prince of Oldenburg himself in October 1901, no construction was underway in Gagra.
We visited this charming corner for the first time in August 1901: in the dilapidated barracks lived the forest guards of the “Gagrin forest government dacha of the Gudauta section of the Sukhumi district of the Kutaisi province,” as two faded signs nailed to the poles said. The walls of the old fortification were drowned in dense thickets of blackberries and various types of vines; old fig trees (figs) rose from the overgrown ditch and, bending their trunks and clinging with their strong roots to the cement of the wall, merrily moved their palmate leaves. On the green lawn of the fortification, once trampled by thousands of soldiers’ soles, two horses were peacefully nibbling short grass, and several motley chickens were wandering. Near the gate, at the old squat tower, a fairly well-preserved embankment began; along it, swaying with their high tops, stood strong old poplars that had seen the Turks. The alley stretched for half a mile. Here and there the remains of foundations, walls of barracks or boat sheds were white. In the Zhuekvara gorge we found the remains of a tower built by Muravyov in 1841. Here, closer to the sea, lay in cubes an asphalt stone, mined by the workers of Colonel Davydov, who discovered large deposits of this stone in the gorge. Near the highway bridge over Juekvara, under the shade of tall poplars, his small house with a balcony nestled. |
As you can see, the description is quite detailed and, if at that time such significant construction as the future palace of a member of the Imperial family had already been started, then this significant event would certainly have been reflected.
Construction of the palace 1901-1902
The Palace of the Prince of Oldenburg, like many other buildings of the Climate Station in the initial period, was built under the leadership of the Art Nouveau classic and longtime acquaintance of Alexander Petrovich, the St. Petersburg architect Grigory Ippolitovich Lyutsedarsky. All sources, including those contemporary to that era, name Lyutsedarsky as the author of the project and the leader of the construction of the palace.
However, there are memoirs by Adile Abbas-oglu, which tells the story with some details of the construction. But not Lyutsedarsky, but the grandfather of the author of the memoirs, an entrepreneur of Iranian origin, Yahya Abbas-ogly.
Even before the start of construction of the Gagra resort, the prince decided to build a palace for himself in Gagra. Our family legend tells about further events. The prince decided to build a palace on a rock. Twice the best craftsmen laid the foundation of the palace, which a short time gave a crack. Having heard about the Iranian builder Abbas-ogly, the prince invited him to his place. After a short conversation, the grandfather agreed to build the palace by the time specified by the prince, and received part of the money to begin construction. We agreed: if the palace is not completed on time, then all financial expenses will fall on the grandfather. Yahya immediately got down to business. The customer was pleased with the successful progress of construction, but in order to complete the work it was necessary to give out the rest of the money, which, obviously, the prince did not have. Grandfather had to raise money from friends and acquaintances, and the palace was built on time. |
At first glance, there seems to be a contradiction in the question of who can actually be called the creator of the palace. But, based on the scant information about Yahya Kerbolay Abbas, one can still assume that he, as a well-known local builder with a ready-made team and established schemes for the supply of building materials, was hired as a contractor. Well, the bright features of the then fashionable Art Nouveau style inherent in the project and embodied in it leave no doubt that the master of this style G.I. had a hand in the project. Lyutsedarsky. He also provided general management of all extensive construction work in Gagra.
Photo by S.M. Prokudin-Gorsky
The familiar appearance of the palace did not take shape right away. If you look closely at the facade, you can clearly see that it consists of two parts, different in style and purpose. First, the western part of the palace was built - asymmetrical architecture, with a huge round window, a remote panoramic terrace, a high chimney and a decorative element imitating the curl of a vine. In this initially compact form, the building looks like a real villa.
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The eastern four-story part of the palace looks much calmer architecturally. On the three upper floors, including the attic, it has many living rooms with small balconies of the same type, and the first floor looks like a gallery. Fireplace chimneys are not involved in creating a style, but carry a purely functional load.
If we abstract from the usual combination of both parts, we can see that these are simply two different buildings connected to each other. For what purpose Oldenburgsky needed a hotel-type extension is not explained in any of the sources I have read. On the one hand, I can’t even think that these rooms were intended for rent. On the other hand, it is difficult to imagine that the simultaneous presence of so many personal guests was expected.
Four guests of the prince
Photo taken from the Internet
The original purpose of the upper wing with an observation tower above the main building of the palace remains a mystery to me. This outbuilding was also built by Lucedarski, and now it is commonly called a servant's house or a hunting lodge with a falconer's tower.
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Photo from the early 2000s. from the Internet
In my understanding, a hunting lodge should be located somewhere far from the main home, directly in the vicinity of hunting or recreation. So, for example, how the hunting lodge of Nicholas II is located on Krasnaya Polyana. But then it would be more appropriate to compare the Oldenburg Palace itself with it, especially in its original design, and call the outbuilding by analogy the huntsman’s house.
In most of the surviving dacha castles that we see in Gagra, a small turret always rises above the house itself. Fedyushina’s well-known dacha has this design; such a tower is present at the neighboring house on the other side of the Skala boarding house. There is a tower at Goldobin’s dacha in Grebeshka, at Olkhovsky’s dacha, at Andreev’s dacha and at Kortukova’s dacha (aka Lakoba’s dacha). All these houses are located on a hill and have a platform at the very top. But it is not intended for walking birds of prey, but for viewing stunning views of the coast. Now take a look at the Oldenburg Palace and find observation deck on the building. She's not there because she's even higher. After all, the listed dachas are already located at the highest point of their site, and the fenced area from the palace, on the contrary, rises upward. Where to build an observation tower if not at the highest point of the site?
It is customary for servants to live in the outbuildings of the palace. But in our case, I doubt that the prince, who is quite zealous about the issue of subordination, would allow the courtyard servants to settle above his own residence, and would even build an observation tower for the servants with the best views on the coast.
Some sources, for example, the guidebooks of Machavariani and Moskvich, speak of the palace of the Princess of Oldenburg, which “is nestled high on the mountain.” Both guidebooks, published in 1913, have text that is clearly copied from one primary source.
I am still inclined to attribute this mention of a certain “princess palace” to an inaccuracy or misconception of the author, rather than seriously assume that the outbuilding with the tower was intended for Evgenia Maximilianovna. At that time she was already paralyzed, so it would have been difficult for her to climb to the highest heights.
Then what function did this house with a tower serve? There is one assumption that, in my opinion, provides the most logical answer. This version appeared to me when we were discussing some more incomprehensible details of the palace - a bathtub and a bowl with a fountain located on the back wall, as well as the “PAO” monogram with an arrow depicted on the bowl.
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Photo 2010 |
Photo 2015 |
Behind the palace of the Prince of Oldenburg there is such a bowl. Does anyone have any idea what it's for? And what does PAO mean with an arrow in 1913? Maybe some kind of joint stock company? But with the cup of association only on the subject of mineral water. PJSC - Prince Alexander of Oldenburg I think PAO are the initials of the prince’s son (Alexander Petrovich of Oldenburg) - Peter Alexandrovich of Oldenburg - PAO) The number is 1913... Maybe because this cup is dedicated to his son, PAO? From one woman’s review - “A trip to the Castle of the Princess of Oldenburg” (Ramon village, Voronezh region): it talks about the use of the Oldenburg heraldic symbols on the oak ceiling slabs in the library and the letters “AEP” (Alexander, Evgenia, Peter). So much has been written about PJSC: and that he was... gay... and that he was a gambler... and that is why he divorced his wife... after 13 years In 1913, PAO was still married and hid from the Prince of Oldenburg (his father) that he was living with another in the same castle. Maybe the arrow on the bowl shows the direction? Like PAO there. Yes, and to the first question - there is only one association - the source? Not necessarily mineral. - By the way, there’s a whole bathtub a little further away. If “PAO” really refers to Pyotr Alexandrovich, then in 1913 there were two significant events in his life. In May he was awarded the rank of major general of the retinue (in which he remained until the last years of his life). And in December 1913, he was involved in a train accident, but remained unharmed. Prince Peter Alexandrovich of Oldenburg was returning on a courier train from the Caucasus. “At night, on the stretch between the Saguny and Liski stations, a train traveling at a speed of about 50 km/h collided with a steam locomotive standing on the way. Despite the darkness, the train driver noticed the locomotive and applied the emergency brake, but a collision could not be avoided. Many passengers were hit and bruised by the impact. The prince remained unharmed and, in gratitude for the vigilance shown by the driver, which allowed him to avoid a terrible disaster, he presented him with his gold cigarette case.” In the direction of the arrow is generally the main entrance. But there is also a staircase up to the turret, which has now been restored. No one told me exactly what its purpose is. Tour guides usually say that this is a hunting lodge with a falconer's tower or just a service building. But if the prince settled his son and his wife there, then this is somehow more understandable. There was probably a tap attached to the bowl. The bowl with the tap definitely has something to do with water, perhaps to the water supply system of Alexander Petrovich. Does the arrow indicate the direction of water movement? or draining water from one bowl to another, or into a bathtub? It’s unlikely that the arrow indicated where the wife and son were, The prince probably could have found his way to them without the arrows. Well, if we assume that he still couldn’t, then they would have drawn it higher - at eye level. They could have indicated it only as a joke. They were still jokers. And it was probably not the prince himself who designated it, but the one who erected the structure. - “The most valuable buildings of the town were equipped with perforated pipelines located in the middle of the ceiling of each room. In the event of a fire, according to the plan, water was to be pumped into these pipes under high pressure in order to knock down the flames not only from the outside, but, like an unexpected cavalry raid in behind enemy lines, destroy him from within. A hereditary Preobrazhenist, a participant in the Turkish campaign, the prince knew a lot about such things. True, fires in Gagra, like in a Turkish bath, happened extremely rarely, but that’s what sanitary measures were for. Sanitation is a great thing! It is not for nothing that the Prince of Oldenburg at one time headed the commission to combat the plague." What am I getting at? Maybe this bowl was filled with water and was intended, just in case, to extinguish fires in the PAO rooms? PAO - fire emergency support? And the arrow is the direction of evacuation in case of fire? No, all these signs made on stone, I think, do not belong to the category of technical ones. They symbolize something. Knowing about the widespread passion for Freemasonry at the turn of the century (and the prince was no exception), I would rather give some kind of runic explanation to this set of symbols. Especially taking into account the number 1913. The arrow, for example, is a symbol of masculinity, and Pyotr Alexandrovich, as you know, lacked exactly this. And of course, the inscription is somehow connected with the water that filled this cup. Unless, of course, it’s just not a personalized drinking fountain. |
Stylized manhole covers await application in the area adjacent to the outbuilding.
Speaking of the water tanks available in the palace, I would like to note that the bowl with the tap was apparently installed in 1913, when the palace was already completely built. The question of its purpose remains open. Adjacent to the bathtub on the other side of the wall was a separate fireplace, which clearly served to heat the water. And on the ground floor, in the rocky wall of the corridor leading to the basement, there was also a grotto with a mini-pool, also of unknown purpose, carved out.
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Photo 2010 |
So, it is unlikely that the direction of the arrow on the bowl is connected with indicating the path to the residence of Pyotr Alexandrovich. But I continue to like the version itself that the upper wing was originally built for Oldenburgsky’s only son, Peter and Olga Alexandrovna, his wife. Indeed, in 1902, while the main palace was just beginning to be built, the so-called Temporary Palace, essentially a panel house, was built on the shore for the newlyweds personally. Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that they could also have been given a personal home on the territory of the real palace. By the way, one of the old photos (see Appendix, photo No. 37) shows that the entire area inside is divided in two by a transverse wall, which still exists today.
On September 27, 2013, the great-nephew of Prince Alexander of Oldenburg, Duke Gounod von Oldenburg, and his wife, Duchess Felicitas von Oldenburg, paid a private visit to Gagra. The reception was held in the restored outbuilding.
The residence of the founder of the high-society resort Gagra in the thirties of the last century was named after Stalin, then renamed “Chaika”, and after a fire in the late eighties it remained desolate for a long time, now the palace is rising from the ruins, but for what?
Sputnik, Vladimir Begunov.
Unknown tenants
"The palace was rented out in 2010 legal entity for forty-nine years,” says Inal Dzhopua, chief specialist of the Department of Protection of Historical and Cultural Heritage of Abkhazia. — We are now finding out who is behind this company. Five years ago, work began on replacing the roofing. They were not agreed with us." According to Dzhopua, the department has developed security obligations for builders with recommendations to return the building to its pre-revolutionary appearance, removing elements of Soviet perestroika. But the tenant is avoiding meeting with officials.
The palace on the rock was built from 1901 to 1904, and in January 1903 its owner, Prince Alexander of Oldenburg, announced the creation of the Gagra climate station in the newly opened Gagripsh restaurant.
“To create the Caucasian Riviera, the Prince of Oldenburg put forward a very effective argument, which was that Russian moneybags would travel to Gagra instead of wasting their money on the Mediterranean coast. But even this rather important calculation itself was only a subtle tactical move. A true fiery dream "The prince, so far carefully hidden from everyone, was that here, on the Black Sea coast, inside the Russian Empire, he would create a small but cozy island of an ideal monarchy, a kingdom of order, justice and complete merging of the monarch with the people and even nations." "Sandro from Chegem".
The idea about Gagra was suggested to the prince by physician Fyodor Pasternatsky. He explored the Stavropol province and Black Sea coast in search of places where it is possible to organize medical resorts. The first reconnaissance mission that Fyodor Ignatievich and the prince went on took place in 1899. The resort opened just four years later. Alexander Oldenbursky knew how to infect people with his ideas. He achieved good things from the emperor through George Shevarshidze-Chachba, who had weight at court. The prince received the appropriate paper from Nicholas II, state sponsorship and began to realize his dream.
Monkeys in Abkhazian forests
“Chaika” is a private facility, it was privatized by the Republican State Committee for Privatization and leased out, says Vladimir Vardaya, chairman of the Committee for Property Management and Privatization of the Gagra District. — The tenants are Yuri Ardzinba and another person whom I don’t want to name because he is elected to parliament. This building will house a sanatorium and resort complex. I can't say when they'll finish. Reconstruction is complex; before each type of work, specialists check the structures for wear levels.”
Prince Alexander Petrovich, having moved to Gagra, lived here for several months a year. He founded the Primorsky Park and opened a museum - a cabinet of curiosities. He bought exhibits from local residents. He also had adventurous ideas: to populate the local forests with parrots and monkeys. The first were killed by kites, the second were shot by local hunters.
Fazil Iskander wrote in “Sandro from Chegem” that the emperor’s quick consent had its own secret plan.
“The Tsar agreed with his proposal with unexpected speed. Then Alexander Petrovich realized that in this way they simply wanted to get rid of him in St. Petersburg. Alexander Petrovich knew that he was considered an eccentric at court because he always, regardless of faces ", with all the frankness of a loyal subject, expressed his thoughts about the means to save the Tsar and the Russian state. All the Oldenburg princes were like that, and all were considered eccentrics."
It is worth telling in more detail about the Prince of Oldenburg himself. In 1903 he was already fifty-nine years old. He was an infantry general, awarded many awards, including the golden weapon "For Bravery". In addition to the resort in Gagra, he opened the Institute of Experimental Medicine in St. Petersburg and was the chairman of the anti-plague commission. During the First World War, the prince organized sanitary affairs in the active army. Nicholas II, appreciating the merits of his distant relative, appointed him head of the sanitary and evacuation unit of the Russian army. Oldenburgsky's wife did not lag behind her husband. Evgenia Maximilianovna was involved in charity work and was a trustee of schools and hospitals. During the Russo-Japanese War, she headed the Port Arthur Committee to assist the wounded and perpetuate the memory of the fallen. But by the time the palace was built in Gagra, she was already paralyzed and lost her mind.
Foundation with a crack
In a photo circulating on the Internet of the passport of work in the palace of the Prince of Oldenburg, it is indicated that the status of the work is: “scientific, restoration and reconstruction”, the contractor company is Deepton Sea. General Director - Yuri Ardzinba. The design development was carried out by the team of the Tyumen Institute of Architecture and Construction.
Another contractor is Dipton Enterprises LTD. (UK). Its owner is Yuri Laptev. Judging by the name, Dipton Sea is a subsidiary of Laptev and, in fact, a subcontractor. Yuri Laptev’s company cooperates with the same Tyumen institute and sends students to foreign internships.
In 2013, the Ardzinba company had a financial scandal with an absconding partner, fake stamps and missing money transferred to Abkhazia by the Laptev company. Then Yuri Ardzinba expressed the opinion that Laptev, having entered into the reconstruction of the palace, was trying to seize the rights to the building. Three years have passed, the storms have subsided, and construction continues.
Old photographs show that the castle was built in stages. First, the palace itself was built with a round panoramic window in the prince’s office, a chimney and an openwork metal curl. Then an attached hotel part appeared for members of the royal blood and representatives of the highest nobility of the Russian Empire. The place was becoming fashionable. In 1912, the emperor himself visited him, albeit briefly, but still. The gray-haired prince managed to combine the incompatible: balls and receptions of the highest nobility with the friendly attitude of the highlanders.
The palace was built by the St. Petersburg architect Gregory Lyutsedarsy. There is a version that when laying the foundation, it cracked twice, and then they invited local contractor Yahye Kerbolay Abbas, who built the palace on the mountain according to the capital’s drawings in a style that architects call romantic modernism.
There were two lighthouses on the territory, illuminating the way for suitable ships and yachts. The entrance to the yard was very narrow. The Mercedes the prince drove had no place to turn around in the yard, so a wooden turning circle was invented in front of the threshold. In 1906, an outbuilding with a tower appeared, the purpose of which historians and local historians are still arguing about: whether it is an observation tower, or a falconer’s tower. Both versions have pros and cons.
© Photo: public domaine
After the revolution, the Prince of Oldenburg left Russia, his property was nationalized and a sanatorium for nervous patients was created in the palace. Babel and Furmanov described it in their essays as a place that was in desolation and was just beginning to be reborn.
New Gagra on the Baltic
In 2013, the Prince of Oldenburg's castle was visited by his nephew, Duke Gounod von Oldenburg and his wife. The reception was held in the outbuilding, which was restored at that time. Apparently, the contractors were trying to give their work historical legitimacy.
In the thirties, the palace became a sanatorium named after Stalin. Then everyone and everything was called by the name of the leader. After exposing the cult of personality, he acquired a new name - "Seagull". Contrary to popular belief, the building was damaged not during the war, but earlier - in the late eighties there was a fire and the building burned to the ground.
But the story of the Prince of Oldenburg himself and his plans to create an ideal monarchy did not end with his departure from Russia.
© Photo: M. Repin
Prince of Oldenburg, fragment of Repin's sketch for the painting "Anniversary Meeting of the State Council" 1903
“The Prince of Oldenburg moved to Finland, where, according to rumors, he was engaged in the civilization of a certain place, which, from good old memory, he called New Gagras. Did he continue his experiments, hoping for a quick fall of the Soviets, or was it simply his active nature that did not tolerate stagnation in anything? remains unknown. Neither I nor the owner of the magnificent binoculars know anything about his further fate,” this is how the third chapter of “Sandro from Chegem” ends. The history of the palace itself is not finished even today. Restoration and controversy surrounding the building continue. Apparently, Prince Alexander Petrovich (Friedrich Konstantin) of Oldenburg chose the wrong place to build an ideal society.
The Abkhazian resort town of Gagra is a very interesting place for tourists. One of its many attractions is the Prince of Oldenburg Castle, which can be seen during a visit to the Seaside Park and Abaata Fortress, attractions located close to it.
Story
Alexander Petrovich of Oldenburg is one of the representatives of the ancient ducal and princely family of German origin - the Oldenburgs. He was a close relative of the Romanov dynasty and the great-grandson of Paul I. It was Alexander Petrovich who established a resort on the coast of Gagra after he built the famous castle. By that time, the healing effect of local air was already widely known.
The construction of the castle was completed in 1902, and the process was led by the architect I. Lucerne, who was distinguished by his love for new, non-standard styles of art. Thanks to him, the architecture of the castle received an Art Nouveau style. A year later, a Seaside Park was opened near the castle, which was filled with various bushes and trees from all over the world.
During the reign of Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin, the castle turned into the Chaika sanatorium for the Soviet elite. After the collapse of the USSR, no one needed the building, and after that the castle was also badly damaged during the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict. The building survived, but complete reconstruction was not carried out and is now in disrepair.
The premises were looted by the armed forces of the parties to the conflict, and the outer walls of the castle were badly damaged by bullets, shells and fires - these traces can still be seen. After the war, vandals operated here, and time is not kind to buildings that are not taken care of.
Since 2010, the building has belonged to an unknown legal entity. It is stated that reconstruction is underway, but it is almost not felt. Little has changed over the years.
Excursions to the castle
The Prince of Oldenburg Castle is officially closed and renovation work is being carried out. Although, the Gagripsh restaurant sometimes conducts excursions for its clients on different days, the cost will be about 700 rubles.
You can try to get behind the fences on your own, but you should know that the territory is guarded by Central Asian shepherd dogs (alabais). However, there is usually a “businessman-security guard” at the main entrance; he will let you into the territory and the observation deck. Price per person - 150 rubles.
Attractions nearby
Seaside park around the castle - perfect place for a pleasant pastime. The diverse flora of this place creates a fragrance and an indescribable atmosphere. For vacationers there are special areas with benches and fountains. Also of interest to visitors is the pond where herons live. They are completely tame and are not afraid of people or camera flashes.
Nearby is the Gagripsh restaurant, whose history is closely connected with the castle of the Prince of Oldenburg. It was built immediately after the castle with materials ordered from Paris. It is noteworthy that no nails were used during construction.
In addition to delicious food, visitors here can also admire the original interior. In appearance, the restaurant resembles a train station with a clock, the structure of which can be seen behind a transparent wall inside the building. Famous historical figures stayed here: I. Bunin, M. Gorky, F. Chaliapin.
Unfortunately, little remains of the former grandeur of the Prince of Oldenburg's castle. Now the building is abandoned and moving around it can be dangerous and extremely difficult given the collapsed ceilings and stairs. There is still something to see, but I would like to hope for the restoration of this unique monument architecture.
Also very close is the medieval fortress of Abaata. It was built in the 5th-4th centuries, but is still perfectly preserved thanks to renovations. The place is run by the Abkhazian Orthodox Church and admission is free.
How to get to the Prince of Oldenburg Castle in Gagra
The castle of A.P. Oldenburgsky is located in the old part of Gagra, on the slope of Mount Mamzykhsha. The Joekvara River flows nearby. The area has good infrastructure - there are hotels, a temple, cafes and restaurants, grocery stores.
Oldenburg Castle in Gagra - Google Maps panorama
You can get there by public transport— not far from the castle there is a stop “Yuri Gagarin Square”. Bus number 5 and minibus number 2 stop. Please note: get to cable car It won’t work out of the Seaside Park; it has long been abandoned and remains one of the resort’s many stalker attractions.
Route from Gagra to the castle of the Prince of Odelburg - Google Maps
Also, only Abkhaz taxi agencies operate in Gagra. For example, Arrivo, Prestige, Garuda Express. The cost of trips starts from 100 rubles. Applications like Yandex.Taxi and Uber will not help you here.
Video: tour of the Prince of Oldenburg Castle
The Prince of Oldenburg Park has a century-old history - it was created in 1902 in Gagra. Initially, it was not so large, but over time, plants from different corners peace. The Prince of Oldenburg himself dealt with issues of importing new plants, birds and animals - but he lacked knowledge in biology and botany: many of them simply did not take root. During Soviet times, the park became an excellent example park architecture- the best landscape designers of the country have been working on this for a long time. Today, more than a thousand plants grow here, most of which are evergreen. This place is often called the Seaside Park, since it is located almost on the coast.
How to get there?
The easiest way is to use the services minibus. The park is located near the final stop - when you get off the minibus, you immediately find yourself in the right place. The cost of the trip is 30-60 rubles. You can also get there by car or by taxi - the average cost of this service is 150 rubles. The Abaata train stop is located nearby.
- Prince of Oldenburg Park covers an area of about 14 hectares. Plants grow here Canary Islands, China, South America, Africa, Syria and other parts of the planet.
- The park was visited by interesting and important personalities. In 1912, Nicholas II visited here along with his daughters and high-ranking guests. In Soviet times, Vladimir Mayakovsky, Igor Severyanin, Maxim Gorky, Vladimir Vysotsky and other creative personalities shared their creativity on the park's stage.
- In Soviet times, films were filmed here - “Jolly Fellows”, “Duel”, “Star of Captivating Happiness”.
- At the junction of the park and the Primorskaya Alley, created after the foundation of the park, there is an openwork colonnade built in the 50s of the last century.
- Combine a walk in the park with a visit to the Prince of Oldenburg Castle - the resulting emotions will last for a long time!
- Among all the plants in the park, date and coconut palms, Himalayan cedars, agave and the candy tree deserve special attention - but don’t think that you’ll find candy on the latter!
