In addition to the Thais, the mysterious people of Chao Le, which means People of the Sea, live in Phuket. Before the devastating tsunami in 2004, almost nothing was known about Chao Le. After the sea nomadic people without writing, professing animism, and practically not using numbers, left their homes and went to the mountains a few hours before the tsunami, people began to show interest in them.
Sea gypsies on Koh Sirey
Ko Sirey, the island where the sea gypsies are located, is separated from Phuket by a small river. Despite large tourist road signs leading to Sea Gypsy Village, the area is abandoned, dirty and poor.
A street along the sea, revealing a jumble of rickety houses, residents sleeping during the day and sorting through shells. A local store that sells almost nothing. And only friendly, laughing children, who don’t care about anything, run in colorful flocks around the dusty village.
For original and authentic photographs of the life and crafts of sea gypsies, it is better to go to wilder and more free places for them. The only justifiable purpose of visiting a gypsy village on Ko Sirey may be financial assistance or gifts for children.
Amazing abilities
An ordinary man from Chao Le can dive to a depth of about 23 meters without any equipment and stay underwater for more than 3 minutes.
They have unique acute underwater vision. The ability to see small and distant objects in stingingly salty water is instilled in early childhood. Only sometimes they use homemade swimming goggles made from broken glass and handy plant materials.
What have the Chao Les been doing all their lives? - They fish and build boats to catch fish. However, it is not a problem for them to catch fish with their hands if they have to. 
Cabang boat
They spend most of their lives in a kabang boat. Traditionally, it is built by hand, from a single tree trunk and burned from the inside with coals for stretching. The outside is braided with bamboo and ropes made from plants. The “recipe” for kabang has not changed for the last 4,000 years.
For many of them, kabang is the place of birth and the place of death. Before cutting down a tree for a kabang, its spirit is addressed in prayer. Anthropologists have noticed that the kabang is a similarity to the human body. It is not for nothing that the parts of a boat in the Chao Le language are called the same as parts of the human body. Accordingly, the attitude towards the boat is very reverent. 
Holiday and small boats
The Chao Le believe that all creatures and objects in the world have a soul. The main holiday of the sea people is called Loy Rya. Twice a year they release miniature boar boats into the sea, where they put rice, nuts, peppers, dolls, hair, nails and weapons to appease the sea spirits and ward off trouble.
Dolls symbolize the souls of the dead, which should calmly float away forever, hair and nails are placed to ward off illnesses, food and weapons are gifts to the spirits. 
Chao Le today
Live in modern world forces Chao Le to the brink of poverty. For example, in Phuket it often happens that the land on which their village stands turns out to be private. Due to the development of tourism, most of the waters where gypsies used to fish have become protected areas. Now the trade that provides their food is called poaching.
The Chao Le do not use money among themselves and simply exchange pearls, fish and corals. But in developed areas like Phuket, they are forced to participate in trade. The deals turn out to be extremely unprofitable for them. For mother-of-pearl, pearls, rare gamblers, large sea cucumbers and other delicacies, they receive pennies, tools, alcohol and cigarettes. 
Sea Gypsies are one of the first inhabitants of the island. In Thai they are called Chao Le, which translates to “People of the Sea”. Their origin is shrouded in mystery and no one knows where they came from. These are nomadic tribes that do not stay in one place for long, preferring to travel.
According to some versions, these are refugees from Burma, according to others, they are descendants of Indians who wandered the sea. Although the latest version has its own evidence, at present almost all gypsies resemble Asians with slanted eyes and dark skin (Indians, on the other hand, are not narrow-eyed and have a European eye shape).
However, the sea gypsies have several settlements on the island of Phuket that are more than 10 years old. There are two main ones: in the eastern part and on the island of Koh Siray. The first one is the most easily accessible and visited by tourists, the second one will have to be searched a little (or go as part of an excursion).
Sea gypsies in Phuket are like a state within a state. They have their own language, their own religion, their own culture, holidays, and customs. Surprisingly, they do not have a written language, which is why it is difficult to trace the history and where they came from. The main thing they do is fishing and pearling. Gypsies are excellent divers, they see well underwater and can dive very deep. Their children learn from childhood to be on friendly terms with the sea, unlike the Thais, many of whom don’t even know how to swim. Adult men spend almost the entire day at sea, so in the villages you can find mostly women, children and old people.
With the development of tourism on the island, selling souvenirs and fresh seafood to foreigners, as well as supplying fish and seafood to restaurants, is becoming a good source of income.
Naturally, the main dish on the sea gypsy menu is fish and seafood, unlike the Thais, who prefer meat and chicken. Therefore, if you are tired of Thai food, then stop by the gypsy village and try freshly caught shrimp, shellfish and fish. The most accessible place to do this is on Rawai Beach, since getting there is very easy.
To be honest, the sea gypsies, especially in Rawai and, have somewhat lost their originality: they calmly understand and speak the Thai language, have adopted some Thai traditions, have money (traditionally, buying and selling was the exchange of goods and money was not involved in them). Although they still have their own beliefs - animism. Their main holiday - "Loy Rya" - is celebrated twice a year. Small boats made of wood, along with tufts of hair and weapons, are lowered into the sea to appease the spirits and repose the souls of the dead.
The Sea Gypsies are ethnically divided into 3 groups: Moken, Moklen and Urak-Lavoi. The last two live on the island. You can book an excursion to them (usually not a separate one, but including other interesting places on the island) or get there on your own.
It is best to go on your own motorbike or car to the village of sea gypsies on. This place is only called an island; in fact, it is separated from the mainland by a small river, across which there is a bridge. You won’t even notice how you end up on it.
Tourists are rare here, so there is no crowding and you can calmly walk around the village, see how they live, what they do, buy souvenirs and fresh seafood. The village of sea gypsies is a fairly large settlement, stretching for several hundred meters. Almost all the houses are built on stilts, some almost close to the water. On the veranda you can see local residents sleeping in a hammock.
And after passing through the village, climb a high green hill, from which excellent views open panoramic views to the settlement and port of Ratsada. The hill is surrounded by a small forest where you can sit in the shade of trees and relax in absolute silence and solitude.
There is a beach in the village, but swimming there is not very cool. Firstly, there are a lot of fishing boats, and secondly, because of this, the water is not particularly clean, and somehow shallow. Plus, human waste lies on the sand - plastic bags, bottles, etc.
If you decide to go to the sea gypsies in Phuket, then on the way back visit what is located on the mountain nearby. It offers an excellent panorama of the surrounding area.
If you are bored (how can this happen?) with the azure sea, palm trees and soft sand, if you want to see the real Thailand, you should go to secret non-tourist places. This is where you can feel the flavor ordinary life locals, look at daily hardcore. There are several of these near Phuket interesting places. You can go on a tour and visit it, standing right on the water. Or go on your own to the island of Sire, where there is a settlement of sea gypsies.
Representatives of this nationality can be found on. There is a very small village there, which has long become a tourist attraction. On Sireh Island there is a more authentic settlement of sea gypsies, where there are almost no tourists.
Who are the sea gypsies?
Nomads from Malaysia and Polynesia were the first inhabitants of Phuket and the nearby islands of the Andaman coast. They sailed to the shores of the Malay Peninsula several thousand years ago. Since ancient times, sea gypsies settled in bays and used its resources until they ran out, then went to another place. The Thais call them Chao Ley or Chao Nam, which literally means “people of the sea.” Decades ago, the Thai government allowed nomads to build settlements on Thai soil.
Among the Chao-le there are three peoples: the Urak Lavoi, the Moklen and the Moken. Their languages, although belonging to the Austronesian family, are very different and completely unlike Thai. The most authentic Moken village is located in the Surin Islands. They still live in wooden houses on stilts, roofed with palm leaves, and have remained largely unassimilated. Excellent knowledge of the sea helped villagers during the 2004 tsunami. Although the houses were completely demolished, the Moken themselves managed to take refuge from the elements.
The languages of the Moken and Moklen are somewhat similar; they can understand each other. The Moklen are more subject to Thai influence, their villages are located throughout south coast from Myanmar to Phuket. They are engaged in farming, collecting rubber, coconuts and have long forgotten nomadic marine life. The language of Urak Lavoi is completely different from the dialects of the two previous groups of sea gypsies. The people live on Rawai beach, on the islands of Sira, Lanta, Jum, Adang, Lipe and others. According to legend, all three ethnic groups were originally related to each other. Some families still migrate, moving from bay to bay, from village to village.
The older generation of sea gypsies often do not have Thai citizenship or passports. The exception is some Urak Lavoi and Moklen, who settled in Thailand on a permanent basis and are already called “new Thais”.
Sea gypsies in Phuket
Urak Lava in Phuket are engaged in fishing, collecting seafood, swallow nests and shells. Just a few decades ago, nomads did not use money in everyday life. They had an exchange in kind. Globalization and the development of tourism have changed the usual course of life. In the village of Sire Island, you can buy some handmade souvenirs and jewelry from for money. The sea gypsies of Phuket are quite civilized. The villages have televisions, refrigerators, cars, motorbikes, which cannot be said about the Moken on the Surin Islands.
Walking along the street of the settlement, you can see the life of the local residents. Some houses are built of wood and tin, others of bricks and tiles. As a rule, every home has a large veranda for relaxation. Men from the village go fishing early in the morning, and women do housework: cooking, washing, cleaning. As a rule, among the locals during the day you will meet only children, women and old people. The seafood they catch is either sold or used for their family. The second half of the day is siesta. Men clean fishing tools, women relax, chat with friends or watch TV.
Parents speak to their children in two languages: Thai and Urak Lawa. The sea gypsies did not have a written language; some still know only the spoken language. Chao Le children go to schools and learn Thai writing. I have English-speaking teacher friends who work at a school on Sire Island that is attended by children from Cheo Le Village.
Chao-le beliefs include ancestor veneration, animism, spiritualism and worship. Nowadays, some people enjoy the benefits of civilization and go to hospitals, while others still resort to the help of the village shaman, who is sure that all troubles are caused by spirits. For treatment in unconventional ways, spells and potions are used.
Sea gypsies take care of their ancestors. According to legend, they took the dead to a special place where souls could live forever. The main ritual of Chao Le is the Loy Rua festival, which translates as “floating boat”. To ward off bad luck, gain support from the spirits and honor the memory of their ancestors, sea gypsies launch a boat, placing in them various figurines of clan representatives, their nails, hair and miniature weapons. This festival takes place twice a year - the full moon of the sixth and eleventh months. lunar calendar. In the villages they organize real celebrations with dancing.
How to get to the sea gypsy village?
What to visit along the way?
The bridge connecting Phuket and Sirae Island is a landmark in itself. There is a monkey viewing area here. As soon as you enter the bridge, you will see road signs warning you to be careful with animals crossing the highway. On Sirae Island there is a copy of the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda in Myanmar.
If you go to the village of sea gypsies on Sirae Island, you will be able to get to know one of the facets of non-tourist Phuket. Have a nice trip!
There are also sea nomadic peoples who have adapted to life at sea. There are sea peoples in many parts of our planet. They live in the area of Hawaii, the Philippine Islands, Malaysia, Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries.
It is almost impossible to say anything about a people who do not have a written language, who constantly roam at sea, have little contact with other peoples, and who have their own language. Where they came from, their history, their ancestors. Most of our historical research methods rely on written evidence and artifacts found in the ground. It turns out that the sea peoples are almost invisible to history. Scientists who have analyzed the DNA of many island and sea peoples say that the DNA of sea nomads is surprisingly similar. Maybe they are all the ancestors of one people who once existed long ago. The existence of which we now cannot confirm, just as we cannot refute it. And maybe this human race would be more successful in the future than the land dwellers. After all, most of our planet is water.
Phuket Island in the Andaman Sea, one of the most popular tourist destinations. The island is visited by millions of tourists every year, but only a few of them know about the sea people who live here, and only a few visit them. The Sea People are among the oldest inhabitants of the island.
In Thailand they are called sea gypsies because of their nomadic lifestyle or Chao Le - translated from Thai people of the sea. Again, it is difficult to say about their appearance in Thailand. Some say that they come from the old Malaysian colonies, who fled to Burma from the Muslim invasion, others say that, like most gypsy peoples, they come from India.
At least, if we consider the language, then about the sea gypsies who live in the region of the island of Phuket, we can say that they descended here along the rivers from Burma. The Sea Gypsies here are divided into three groups: Mokena, Moklen, and Urak Lawoi (named after the population groups in Burma). While the Moken live as nomads, mostly on northern islands in the Phuket area. The Moklen and Urak Lavoi founded a settlement in Phuket. This happened recently, about ten years ago. Mainly after the events associated with the Tsunami. There are now three Sea Gypsy settlements on Phuket and one near the island. The oldest settlement is located in the southern part of the island on Rawai Beach. Another eight kilometers from Phuket Town next to the bay Sapam. And the third settlement in Phuket is on the island of Sirey, which can be reached via a small bridge. Sirey and Phuket are connected by a bridge. All these settlements are more like the settlements of ordinary land dwellers, despite their amazing way of life. But another settlement, which can be easily seen when driving along the Sarasin Bridge, connecting Phuket with the mainland, differs from the three previous ones. The Chao Le built their houses here right in the sea on large wooden stilts. If you have ever driven across the Sarasin Bridge, you have definitely seen them.
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| Chao Le children play in the water. Photo 2006 Phuket. |
Despite the fact that they settled on the island, as before, their life is inextricably linked with the sea. They still spend most of their time at sea and only at short term return to shore. From time immemorial, sea gypsies landed on the islands only to replenish supplies fresh water and build new boats, this is still happening now, only the gypsies living in Phuket no longer wander from island to island, and constantly return to the same place. The sea feeds them and the sea is their home. Residents of settlements supposedly living on the island in reality most spend time at sea and fish. Some fish for pearls and seashells. Some of them collect bird's nests, which are a delicacy. Sea gypsies are good divers; they dive to great depths without special modern equipment. And thus they put their lives in danger. But this way they can catch more fish. At great depths they set up their homemade fish traps made of rods and mesh. And then they dive after them to pick them up and then pull them onto the boat. Of all the equipment, they use only a thin hose with ordinary air, which is clamped between the teeth. This hose can break at any time. And then you will have to quickly ascend, but if you ascend quickly, there is a high probability of getting a lung injury. They also see very well underwater. And this is not surprising. The main entertainment for children in Chao Le is the sea. From childhood, instead of school, they learn about the sea, its customs and inhabitants. The sea is for them and playground and school at the same time. They learn to swim, dive deep and see underwater. They know the sea better than anyone else.
Of course, with the development of tourism on the island, they have new opportunities to feed themselves. Nowadays you can see them selling seashells, pearls and various crafts. Many began to earn money by carrying tourists on their boats. Although money is not as important to them as it is to us. They still know how to exchange goods for goods without first calculating its monetary equivalent. But if they have money, then first of all they will buy cigarettes; both men and women smoke. Next to cigarettes in importance is boat fuel. And then there are vegetables, eggs and rice, so that the fish can be cooked more tastier.
25-year-old Supawat Hantale talks about the Queen's visit to Ko Lepe Island, which is located in national park Thailand Turatao. This happened back when his mother was a little girl. In an effort to help the Chao Le assimilate into Thailand, the Queen suggested that they use surnames on the islands where they settled. And now it seems that every Chao Le you meet has the surname Hantale, which means “He who is not afraid of the sea”…. (Tale means sea in Thai).
They retained their own language and beliefs. Legends say that they send their dead to the so-called dead islands, where their souls live forever. Twice a year they hold the most important ritual for them - the Loy Ruea festival or the festival of sailing boats. All the action takes place at night. Wooden boats with handmade lanterns are filled with gifts for spirits and small wooden dolls. After which they set off on an eternal voyage forever. Wooden dolls symbolize the souls of the dead, who go far, far away on their last voyage, so as not to disturb the living. After the light of the last lantern on the departing boat is no longer visible, their traditional dances begin around their famous Ram Rong Ngeng boats.
Chao Le has a special, even sacred, attitude towards boats. A boat is more than a means of transportation for them. This is more than a home. It is more than a tool with which they can feed themselves and their families. This is more than an indicator of wealth and wealth. The boat is in With e...
They say that the first woman who gave rise to the family of sea gypsies turned into a turtle, but with a human face. Since then Chao Le have been praying sea turtle and treat her like a sister of her kind. And only during this Chao Le festival can sea turtles be hunted and eaten.
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| Sea Gypsy girls, photo 2006 Phuket. |
We live in a progressive world, where people use high technology, live in big cities. World civilizations are taking steps to conquer space. Our scientists are trying to uncover the secrets of nature. But we have become very distant from nature itself. We have forgotten how to live at one with nature and enjoy life without using the benefits that our modern technologies give us. Will our progressive and highly educated community be able to even just survive without all our technology, cars, computers, phones and clothes? Can we do this? All modern civilizations are still stubbornly trying to change nature and adjust it to suit themselves, but nature always persistently takes its toll, teaching people one lesson after another. But among all of us there are such peoples, settlements, tribes. Who, having learned long ago to live in harmony with nature and the sea, have preserved their traditions, their way of life and themselves. They do not change nature, do not use high technology and do not create environmental problems. And at the same time they can enjoy the life that they have. Perhaps now there are fewer of them than all the so-called progressive people, but perhaps this human race actually has a better chance of existing in the future than we do.
Sea Gypsies Phuket.
1 (20%) 1 votesSea gypsies – Phuket.
We live in a huge and amazing world. It’s no secret that the volume of water on our planet is many times greater than the volume of land. But most people live on land. Although people live in different places, and in different ways. Some peoples have adapted to live high in the snow-capped mountains. Others built their cities in deserts. And still others have long lived in the tropical jungle. There are also sea nomadic peoples who have adapted to life at sea. There are sea peoples in many parts of our planet. They live in the area of Hawaii, the Philippine Islands, Malaysia, Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries.
It is almost impossible to say anything about a people who do not have a written language, who constantly roam at sea, have little contact with other peoples, and who have their own language. Where they came from, their history, their ancestors. Most of our historical research methods rely on written evidence and artifacts found in the ground. It turns out that the sea peoples are almost invisible to history. Scientists who have analyzed the DNA of many island and sea peoples say that the DNA of sea nomads is surprisingly similar. Maybe they are all the ancestors of one people who once existed long ago. The existence of which we now cannot confirm, just as we cannot refute it. And maybe this human race would be more successful in the future than the land dwellers. After all, most of our planet is water.
Homemade fishing net
Phuket Island in the Andaman Sea is one of the most popular tourist destinations. The island is visited by millions of tourists every year, but only a few of them know about the sea people who live here, and only a few visit them. The Sea People are among the oldest inhabitants of the island.
In Thailand they are called sea gypsies because of their nomadic lifestyle or Chao Le - translated from Thai people of the sea. Again, it is difficult to say about their appearance in Thailand. Some say that they come from the old Malaysian colonies, who fled to Burma from the Muslim invasion, others say that, like most gypsy peoples, they come from India.
Representative of Sea Gypsies, Phuket Island
At least, if we consider the language, then about the sea gypsies who live in the region of the island of Phuket, we can say that they descended here along the rivers from Burma. The Sea Gypsies here are divided into three groups: Mokena, Moklen, and Urak Lawoi (named after the population groups in Burma). While the Moken live as nomads, mainly in the northern islands around Phuket. The Moklen and Urak Lavoi founded a settlement in Phuket. This happened recently, about ten years ago. Mainly after the events associated with the Tsunami. There are now three Sea Gypsy settlements on Phuket and one near the island. The oldest settlement is located in the southern part of the island on Rawai Beach. Another eight kilometers from Phuket Town next to the bay Sapam. And the third settlement in Phuket is on the island of Sirey, which can be reached via a small bridge. Sirey and Phuket are connected by a bridge. All these settlements are more like the settlements of ordinary land dwellers, despite their amazing way of life. But another settlement, which can be easily seen when driving along the Sarasin Bridge, connecting Phuket with the mainland, differs from the three previous ones. The Chao Le built their houses here right in the sea on large wooden stilts. If you have ever driven across the Sarasin Bridge, you have definitely seen them.
Chao Le children play in the water. Photo 2006 Phuket
Despite the fact that they settled on the island, as before, their life is inextricably linked with the sea. They still spend most of their time at sea and only return to shore for a short period of time. From time immemorial, sea gypsies landed on the islands only to replenish fresh water supplies and build new boats, this is still happening now, only the gypsies living in Phuket no longer wander from island to island, and constantly return to the same place. The sea feeds them and the sea is their home. Residents of the settlements supposedly living on the island actually spend most of their time at sea and fishing. Some fish for pearls and seashells. Some of them collect bird's nests, which are a delicacy. Sea gypsies are good divers; they dive to great depths without special modern equipment. And thus they put their lives in danger. But this way they can catch more fish. At great depths they set up their homemade fish traps made of rods and mesh. And then they dive after them to pick them up and then pull them onto the boat. Of all the equipment, they use only a thin hose with ordinary air, which is clamped between the teeth. This hose can break at any time. And then you will have to quickly ascend, but if you ascend quickly, there is a high probability of getting a lung injury. They also see very well underwater. And this is not surprising. The main entertainment for children in Chao Le is the sea. From childhood, instead of school, they learn about the sea, its customs and inhabitants. For them, the sea is a playground and a school at the same time. They learn to swim, dive deep and see underwater. They know the sea better than anyone else.
Of course, with the development of tourism on the island, they have new opportunities to feed themselves. Nowadays you can see them selling seashells, pearls and various crafts. Many began to earn money by carrying tourists on their boats. Although money is not as important to them as it is to us. They still know how to exchange goods for goods without first calculating its monetary equivalent. But if they have money, then first of all they will buy cigarettes; both men and women smoke. Next to cigarettes in importance is boat fuel. And then there are vegetables, eggs and rice, so that the fish can be cooked more tastier.
25-year-old Supawat Hantale talks about the Queen's visit to Ko Lepe Island, which is located in Thailand's Turatao National Park. This happened back when his mother was a little girl. In an effort to help the Chao Le assimilate into Thailand, the Queen suggested that they use surnames on the islands where they settled. And now it seems that every Chao Le you meet has the surname Hantale, which means “He who is not afraid of the sea”…. (Tale means sea in Thai).
They retained their own language and beliefs. Legends say that they send their dead to the so-called dead islands, where their souls live forever. Twice a year they hold the most important ritual for them - the Loy Ruea festival or the festival of sailing boats. All the action takes place at night. Wooden boats with handmade lanterns are filled with gifts for spirits and small wooden dolls. After which they set off on an eternal voyage forever. Wooden dolls symbolize the souls of the dead, who go far, far away on their last voyage, so as not to disturb the living. After the light of the last lantern on the departing boat is no longer visible, their traditional dances begin around their famous Ram Rong Ngeng boats.
Sea Gypsy girls, photo 2006 Phuket.
We live in a progressive world where people use high technology and live in big cities. World civilizations are taking steps to conquer space. Our scientists are trying to uncover the secrets of nature. But we have become very distant from nature itself. We have forgotten how to live at one with nature and enjoy life without using the benefits that our modern technologies give us. Will our progressive and highly educated community be able to even just survive without all our technology, cars, computers, phones and clothes? Can we do this? All modern civilizations are still stubbornly trying to change nature and adjust it to suit themselves, but nature always persistently takes its toll, teaching people one lesson after another. But among all of us there are such peoples, settlements, tribes. Who, having learned long ago to live in harmony with nature and the sea, have preserved their traditions, their way of life and themselves. They do not change nature, do not use high technology and do not create environmental problems. And at the same time they can enjoy the life that they have. Perhaps now there are fewer of them than all the so-called progressive people, but perhaps this human race actually has a better chance of existing in the future than we do.
