On the this moment very few articles submitted. We hope that this is because everyone wants to write the most informative story, and is in no hurry to send until they are polished. Feel free to tell us about some freeride place!
Here is what Pavel Lavrentiev told us about skiing at the Gulmarg resort, which is very famous among freeriders.
Since there are descriptions of trips to Gulmarg, I will focus on the description of freeride routes, entries and exits, but for completeness I will add a little about the trip itself.
The idea of the trip was born a year before the trip itself, we decided to celebrate the New Year in an unusual way, and of course to ride. We began to develop a trip to India, the route turned out like this:
1. Moscow-Delhi plane, Delhi-Cochin plane, right-hand drive taxi Kochin-Allapuja (Allipi), swimming in the ocean, eating all sorts of different things, meeting NG (it was cool, several thousand stoned Indians dance on the ocean, the stage from which incendiary Indian songs sing live songs, and the sound of the surf :).
2. Taxi to Cochin, plane Cochin-Delhi, plane Delhi-Srinagar, 1 day in Srinagar for a preliminary inspection of the city, taxi Srinagar - Gulmarg.
3. Accommodation at the Payne Palace hotel, wheelchair.
4. Taxi Gulmarg-Srinagar, walk in Srinagar.
5. Plane Srinagar-Delhi, a day in Delhi (there is nothing to do there), plane Delhi-Moscow.
India also has internet, so all tickets for domestic flights bought from home. The hotel in Gulmarg was booked from Moscow through a special person, but as experience has shown, there is no need for this, at the moment there are three large hotels with central heating where you can find a room.
There are no tracks there, there is a mountain and a lift to its top, in general, everything is as we like. I will describe what concerns skating, at the end, briefly everyday. The description corresponds to the moment when we were there, the first half of January 2010. There was not much snow, on January 3 there was a snowfall, after that the sun stood for 8 days.
For some reason, the myth is widespread that this place is not avalanche-prone. This is precisely a myth, we released three small avalanches, a group of Australians released 2, and after our return to Moscow and active snowfall, an avalanche came down in one of the corridors, in which about 30 people died, the Indian military, who illiterately set up a camp for their exercises . So be vigilant!
The geography is simple: a ridge, a plateau below it, a sloping forest below the plateau.
From the bottom of the forest there is a lift to the plateau, from the plateau the second stage goes to the ridge itself. In the picture, this is a vertical line, point G2-3 is the transfer point to the plateau.
This is how it looks from the satellite. Unfortunately, for more large maps, the place of interest to us is covered by clouds
First I will describe the descents, and then the return options. What is indicated by numbers I will call the lobbies. You can ride to the right and left of the lift.
On right
To ride on the right (when viewed from below, couloirs 1-6) you must walk. Lobby 1 and 2 accessible without a pawn, from the lift, the 1st immediately, to the second one you need to cross the rib by traverse. As a result, they roll out on the first day after the snowfall, on the fifth day, in the upper part of the second couloir, there was a perfectly even surface with the hardness of ice. Entering couloir 2 from above is risky, an unpleasant cornice inflates there.
Couloir 2 from above
Couloir 3 very interesting, you have to go to it. 30-40 minutes, depending on the degree of acclimatization, the presence of traces, etc. It begins with a wide steep circus turning into a wide rollout. In the upper left part (when viewed from below) they lowered a small avalanche, passed 200 meters, and stopped by itself. As you can see from the photo, I crossed the traverse of those who climbed from the second couloir.
Couloir 4, from the third couloir go quickly, because there is a gentle part of the ridge at the top. Everything is fine there, in the upper part the potential is great, in the lower part everything degenerates into a narrow pipe. There you need to be more careful, because. if an avalanche goes along the bottom, it is very difficult to leave. It is not worth trying to get over below, over the ridge, into couloir 3 through the forest, it cost us 2 hours of picking in the forest, bushes, crossing a stream, etc., it is all flat.
Couloir 5, from couloir 4 to the beginning of the fifth one can be reached by going around the top of the ridge on the left, with little snow it is a slalom among the stones, if you feel sorry for the ski-board, somewhere you have to walk. The circus is ambiguous, when viewed from above, it is better to enter from the left, because on the right visit the cornice, and traces of natural avalanches are visible under the cornice. Wide, a large number of options for descent.
Couloir 6. From couloir 5 you have to walk for another 20 minutes, from above it looks like a circus on the 5th, on the right (when viewed from above) there is a cornice, on the left is the most optimal entry.
The snow after the circus is harsh there, the geometry is such that there is very little sun there. We descended in this place on the third day after the snowfall, the crust was scattered in pieces, perhaps if immediately after, it would be softer.
On the hard snow they lowered the board, it did not go much, 50 meters, in large hard pieces.
In all corridors, in the presence of snow, there will be places to jump, it will be possible to ride not along the walls, but along the ridges.
The hike looks like this:
If the path is full, then it’s easy to go, like steps. The most difficult section is the first to the third couloir, then everything is more or less gentle.
At the top of each couloir there are comfortable resting places if you are tired of walking :)
Departure
If you go along the corridors 1,2,3 you leave the plateau in the "green" zone, and here it is easy to get to the bottom of the second stage of the G2-3 lift. The plateau is sloping, so it is acceptable to ride on it. From there you can go to the forest, but we never left.
If you go down the corridors 4,5,6, then you get into the "purple" zone. From her best option descend through the forest. In the forest, everything is intuitive, it is difficult to miss, but you can drive into the lowlands from which you have to go out on foot. Theoretically, it is possible to move from the blue zone to the green one, but this is on foot in the snow, it will be more economical in time to go down through the forest and go up on the lift.
Left
There is no need to go, the slope allows you to get to all the corridors. You have to “pay” at the exit, there is a pawn. In general, there is less snow than to the right of the lift.
Lobby 7-8, they didn’t climb there - everything was torn off, because the simplest option. From the side it looked interesting, when there is more snow, it's fun there.
Lobby 9-10, started on the 10th, in the middle they lowered the expected avalanche into a narrow chute.
Snowboarding in Gummarg (India)
We left at the ninth and went down the ridge between the 9th and 8th.
Departure
If you go to the bottom of the 9th and 10th, then you will have to go into the forest, and then go down to the village of Tanmarg, and from there take a jeep to the top. Due to the lack of snow, this route was not attempted.
Avalanche
There are local avalanches, these are Canadians and Americans. Once a week they give a lecture, very useful to listen to. Every day they post an assessment of the factors that influence avalanche risk at the lift, so that this information can be used in the analysis on the spot.
Road, housing, etc.
The price of accommodation in Gulmarg is from 1500 to 3500 rupees per day in a hotel with central heating, I do not recommend others. The price depends on your ability to bargain. Breakfast and dinner in the hotel restaurant are cooked very tasty, but, as usual in India, you need to focus on the complete absence of pepper and spices. Otherwise, you won't eat even a spoon. J There are no entertainments in hotels except for evening parties of skiers. We lived in the "upper" part, it is a little more expensive, but also more comfortable, and they call it "Heritage". Sleep warm, clothes dry. It's cold in the bathroom, washing is a feat.
Taxi: there is a subtlety. The path from Srinagar to the hotels can be divided into three parts: along the highway to Tanmarg, along the serpentine from Tanmarg to Gulmarg, from Gulmarg to the hotel through the barrier.
We rented a car in the center of Srinagar right at the taxi stand. There was a promise to take us straight to the hotel. We were taken to Tanmarg, then transferred to a car to Gulmarg, this is a type of minibus, a jeep in which 9 people. They changed because the road was snowy, and the taxi driver had no chains. But the “minibus” refused to take us from the barrier to the hotel and wanted another 200 rupees. I would recommend discussing this at the time of hiring a car, insisting that they must be taken to the hotel entrance. The cost from the airport is about 1500 rupees.
In addition to the wheelchair
You can also go for a walk around Srinagar. There are funny neighborhoods, there are just scary ones. Right on the street there are bowls of oil and in them the Indians fry the lotus root, potatoes and nuts, in some kind of pink-transparent dough. Very tasty and nutritious, although it looks extremely unsanitary. But the most important thing is pomegranates, they are so ripe and tasty that we bought a bag and in the mountains in the evenings they ate them poured with pomegranate juice.
If you get to the right area, you can see shops where they make and sell copper utensils, we were very impressed.
There is Dal Lake, a lot of Indians offer a boat tour on this lake, between houseboats, a lot of attractions are announced in the program, as usual, the Indians lie :) But it’s worth a little ride, the settlements in houseboats on the water are very impressive. The only thing to watch out for when you sail away from the shore, boats will begin to swim up to you and offer all sorts of handicrafts. If this is not nipped in the bud, you may not sail anywhere, the payment is on time. In our case, the message to our boatman worked: “If at least one more swims up and starts to offer us something, we won’t pay you money” :)
Gulmarg for people accustomed to European and not very European ski resorts is a wonderland. Old-timers assure that yetis live somewhere in the local mountains - snow people- short creatures, similar to a man, overgrown with hair and possessing great strength. Yeti we did not meet, but the monkeys are found in the trash around the hotels in abundance. This is from the manifestations of local specificity.
Gulmarg (1400-4138 m) was built in 1927 by the British. It is very far from European standards. It also looks a little like the usual domestic resorts. Some of Gulmarg's old fashionedness is fully compensated by the friendly and unobtrusive service and low prices.
its specificity and local flavor introduces the stoic attitude of the local population to difficulties and hardships. Winter is perceived as a natural disaster. Like a necessary evil. Since winter lasts only 2-2.5 months, it only needs to be endured.
Gulmarg is probably very beautiful in summer. Highlands, Himalayan pines, monkeys, mild climate. However, in winter, local stoicism is somewhat annoying. The monkeys with the pines remain the same as in summer. The only difference is that the temperature can drop to -20 C at night.
About Hotels
Because the heating local hotels is in its infancy, it can bring some inconvenience. Double glazing is also unknown to local builders.
If you are lucky and your room is equipped with central heating (and a potbelly stove is also possible), then the temperature in the room above 17 degrees is difficult to achieve. And that's only when the heating is on. They heat in the rooms at best 17.00-20.00 and 7.00-9.00, but at this moment the hot water is turned off (if any). In the worst case (Hill Top hotel, room with electric heating), the temperature does not rise above 8 C. Water appears sometimes, but only cold. We did not have a chance to live in a room with a potbelly stove and water in basins in the morning, maybe this did not allow us to fully appreciate the fullness of the local comfort that fell to our lot.
We were lucky enough to live consecutively in 3 rooms. Room with central heating and boler - in the hotel Hill Top. Room with electric heating in the same Hill Top. At the Pain Palace Platinum Hotel.
The Pain Palace Platinum room was the best in the whole valley ( this hotel booked by Australian skiers for the whole season), however, even there the temperature did not rise above 17 C. Since the heating system pumps are electric, the heating was turned off accordingly with a power failure. But not more than 10 times a day. The cost of the room ranges from 1000 to 3000 rupees per day.
Electricity is supplied to hotels in a very peculiar way. The voltage on different phases, divorced to different sockets in one room, can range from 150 to 200 volts. The use of shoe dryers and other joys of civilization can be very difficult. Sometimes the voltage drops below the starting voltage of the fluorescent lamps.
Gulmarg is an ideal resort for the brave in spirit, fully provided with equipment and clothing. Sleeping bags at this resort is not superfluous at all.
About food
With food in Gulmarg, on the one hand, everything is simple. Every hotel has a restaurant where you are always ready to be served for your money. There are a number of outlets where you can taste local cuisine.
On the other hand, the local cuisine is quite specific. The abundance of spices makes many dishes unacceptable for Europeans. The diet is completely absent beef and pork, but there is rice in all forms and manifestations.
Alcohol is also almost completely absent. You can only find local beer at the bellboys for 200-250 rupees a bottle. 1 rupee 0.7-0.8 rubles.
About morals
Local service is simple and unobtrusive.
Leaves an imprint of the Indian mentality, their slowness and bureaucracy. The lift can work, but there is no ticket attendant (he just took it and left), the ticket seller returned - the gondola stood up (the electricity ran out). There was electricity - it started to snow. In heavy snow, the lift also does not work. The gondola is unstable, one queue can work. Only the first turn may turn on, and the second turn will turn on only, suppose at 12:00, or it may not turn on at all. In this case, the queue of the afflicted to the lower station of the second stage surprisingly resembles Cheget. But there is also a significant difference. You can get on the lift only with tickets.
About skating!!!
But all the difficulties and hardships described above can be forgiven and endured for the sake of the opportunities that the slope itself provides.
The riding (for Freeride lovers) is fantastic. Since the Himalayas block the path of warm and humid air masses with Indian Ocean no problem with snow. To say that there is a lot of snow is an understatement. Fluff!!! Lots of fluff.
Unrolled virgin soil waist-deep or more almost every day is the rule rather than the exception.
The maximum height to which the second stage of the lift rises is 4000 m. Actually, it is of interest. Large elevation changes, good slope and huge fields. Soft snow. In terms of skiing, the place is excellent. There are no tracks as such, off-piste skiing, with many variations.
Skiing can be even more diversified by walking up a little higher and orographically to the left of the upper station. Thus, you can get into the neighboring couloir having a common rollout to the lift.
You can go to the right, but from there you can only get to the lower villages, and then if you know the way. This option is quite extreme, since there have been cases of skiers wandering for several days and, accordingly, searches by local rescuers.
If the lift does not work, you can take a jeep and ride through the forest down to the village (Babareshi or Tangmarg), the feeling is indescribable. Again, snow, lots of snow. Too much snow!
Prices for skiing pleasures are approximately the same. Lift: 1 pt. - 100 rupees, 2 pts. 200. Car - 600 rupees for one lift from Babareshi from the car (6-7 people)
Snowfall in Gulmarg is SNOWFALL capitalized. Visibility is limited to 5-10 meters. Snow pours a lot. Avalanche sensors and shovels are not superfluous at all. You shouldn't ride alone either.
About other pleasures
After the end of skating, sadness and longing sets in. There is nothing to do in the evening except for a hookah, but this is not for everyone.
In case of prolonged bad weather, you can arrange an excursion to Srinagar. At the same time, get a lot of adrenaline, ride a jeep on bald tires on an icy serpentine. But we must proceed from the fact that such an excursion will take at least two days. And there is something to see in Srinagar. Srinagar is located in a picturesque valley near a lotus lake. Srinagar is not only a city of houseboats famous since ancient times, but also the terraced Mughal gardens, the “throne of Solomon”, the tomb of Moses, the Shivalingam in the Amarnath cave and the white marble Hazratbal mosque. But this is all, again, an amateur and depends heavily on the tension in the region. You will hardly see such a number of armed people on the streets. Pakistan is actually behind the pass.
A trip to Gulmarg can also be combined with a visit to other interesting places in India.
In general, the impressions for the 10 days spent there are excellent. True, it was not possible to "ride", but this is a tribute to local specifics.
About fly in the ointment
However, each barrel, as usual, has its own fly in the ointment. In our case, the role of this spoon was played by the choice of fellow travelers and the corresponding financial losses. When the decision was made to visit Gulmarg, the question arose of how to get there. On the recommendation of mutual friends, we drew attention to a certain Mr. Petrov.
Andrey Petrov introduced himself as a guide, recruiting a group for a trip to Gulmarg. In direct communication, it was promised that for our $ 2000 we would not have any problems, within reason. Including visa. Considering that the cost of the flight Moscow - Delhi - Moscow was approximately $600. Delhi-Srinagar $100 and transfer Srinagar-Gulmarg $50-80, we fully expected that in addition to moving, this amount includes at least accommodation. How naive we were.
The first call was an offer to change at the Delhi airport for $ 1000-1500 minimum. By local standards, this is quite a lot of money, sufficient for living and skiing in Gulmarg for 10-14 days.
Upon arrival in Gulmarg, it turned out that accommodation, meals, lift and the way back to Srinagar were not included in the price. The question immediately arose, what is included? Unfortunately, this question has not yet been answered. However, as well as any financial report.
Failed to get back the rest of the amount. Not directly in India. Not upon arrival in Moscow. Meetings were repeatedly appointed, followed by oath assurances that the entire remaining amount would be returned to the last cent, but when the crucial moment came, Mr. Petrov was either unavailable or extremely busy. And so 8 times. At the moment, more than 9 months have passed since the trip to Gulmarg and it was probably possible to find a couple of hours to settle their financial obligations, but this did not happen.
The need to pay for the services of a guide is not in doubt. However, I would like to know what these services are and their cost. A commission of 100% of the cost of the trip seems a little overpriced.
Such behavior does not correspond well to the behavior of the guide, which Mr. Petrov positions himself as. It's more like the behavior of a person who wants to ride at someone else's expense.
Brief Summary
- Is it worth going? Necessarily! You will hardly find such skiing and exotics anywhere else.
- Comfort is quite relative.
- There is nothing to do after the ride.
- A trip to Gulmarg fits in well with visiting other beauties of India.
- Golden Triangle, Srinagar, Leh, Goa, optional.
- Communication, in Gulmarg itself, only at telephone booths. GSM is not working.
Estimated costs. 1 rupee - 0.8 rub. It is possible and necessary to change dollars not rupees at the airport upon arrival. The course is quite adequate
- Moscow-Delhi-Moscow approx. 600$
- Delhi-Srinagar 100 $
- Srinagar-Gulmarg 50-80$
- Skating 100 rupees. - 1 turn. 250 rupees - 2 turn.
- Skating is mainly on the 2nd stage. It is difficult to go down more than 4 times a day.
- Accommodation 1000 to 3000 rupees per day.
- Meals 300-600 rupees.
P.S. to the fly in the ointment
Two days after the publication of the article on the site, Mr. Petrov contacted me and I received a financial report and the rest of the amount paid, which made it possible to clarify the costs of the trip. Provided report:
- Tickets Moscow-Delhi-Moscow: $635
- Visa: 245$
- Tickets Delhi-Srinagar-Delhi: $135
- Overweight: 15$
- Transfer Srinagar-Gulmarg: 25$
- Guide services: $700
What we spent directly in Gulmarg:
- Accommodation and skiing expenses: $900
- Return transfer Gulmarg-Srinagar: $25
Total: $2675
Guide services included:
- Obtaining visas
- Buying tickets
- Organization of a transfer in 1 way
Reviews and comments
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Gulmarg (like India) is a different style and skill in general.
I partially agree with the material, but it is necessary to go once.
Great report!
Too many typos...
IMHO, it was not worth the fly in the ointment. Moreover, the spoon is highly individual-specific))
Thank you! Come in handy!
2 Sonchik: And in my opinion it was worth it. What does "individual-specific" mean? The fact that someone unfamiliar was deceived, but someone familiar will not be deceived? Individual approach? The mistake of Andrey and his company is that they did not immediately find out "where, what and for what money." However, to assume that the services of the organizer (not even a guide, as I understand it - the guys did not use his services) trips will be priced at half of its cost ... However.
In addition, this is a report on the trip, including the costs of it.
Normul report. Although I can not say that I really wanted to. So far to climb so as not to "roll out" because of the gouging Indians .. If I understood correctly about the "local specifics".
2 Sonchik. Small spoon I would even say. Address, phone number and name of Mr. Petrov's office in the studio..
Hmm .... The services of a guide (and not a travel agent) are striking in their volume ...
- 2 individual descents on the 1st stage
- 2 group descents in a big company
Or did you agree on this right away (before the trip)?
Cyril was somehow very different ...
I take my words back. The spoon turned out to be very understated ...
The total cost is 2800 USD for everything. I will follow the process. I know Petrov, we rode Cheget together.
I won't say anything yet, but $700 for 2 weeks is quite a reasonable amount. What does it include..? Well, knowing Petrov, it includes a full day of skiing.
If something goes wrong, I'll let you know.
Andrew! I rode with you in Gulmarg, only I organized the trip on my own, though Petrov also wanted to rip off ten thousand rubles from me before leaving (I went down from above with your group once), I remember I was very amazed! Very good report. And then I started to forget something, how much. Are you going this year?
For comparison - ski pass for the whole season in Val Thorens costs 707 euros.
Was in Gulmarg on the same dates. It took me $ 1,700 for the road, gurney and accommodation. Traveled with snowpro. It turned out cheaper, since the accommodation was in Greenheights. I really liked!!!
Volodya oxoma - good luck, everything will be ok. You had the opportunity to shake me for information about India during the ride in August. I didn't find out, so it will be more interesting ...
P.S. I don't know what the amount is. But my IMHO, these guys (guides) really travel at our expense, but for themselves and their families they earn mere pennies on these trips ... But without such guys, it will simply not be interesting to go to the mountains.
This report evokes conflicting feelings about the desire to go there ... This summer I visited the Chilean resorts of valenevado with elcolorado and termas de chillan - there were no fly in the ointment - maybe because without guides, and off the slopes they rode with local riders - SUPER.
Hey! All this is strange: of course, I rode in the next group with Kirill, but everything was the same for us, and what the hell is about 4 descents for 700 bucks? We rode with GOOD guides all the time and for two weeks the guided rides paid $700. Yes, I think that this is quite expensive, but it is 1200 rubles per day!!! This is exactly the same as we pay in Russia for the work of guides. Petrov is not a ticket buyer or a bus driver - he is a mountain climber and will probably pull your ass out if it gets in the wrong place. And they pay money for it - that's how it works ...
Another thing is that it wasn’t really 2 weeks, since the lift often stopped, the groups were large enough, which is also not super and there were, if I remember correctly, organizational overheads, but not enough to run into here in this form.
and about Gulmarg, you can simply add that it’s worth going there, but most likely not more than once, so that after that you can ride in the Alps with a guide for the same money, but much more interesting.
Thank you very much for your emotional and informative commentary on my report. However, let me add my remarks to your comment.
Firstly. The report does not include skating in the group you were in. Skating in the group where you did not take part is considered.
Secondly. The report does not discuss whose or sports regalia and successes. The theme is completely different. A specific visit to Gulmarg and all the events associated with it are described.
Thirdly. It is very difficult for any guide to quickly pull out the fifth point of the wards from extreme situations if he sees them more often in the evenings. And even then, not every day.
And fourthly. If there is a desire to breed controversy on this issue, then this site has a wonderful forum.
Gulmarg from A to Z: map of hotels and ski areas, slopes and pistes, lifts and ski passes. Bright photos and videos. Reviews of tourists-skiers about Gulmarg.
- Tours for the New Year to India
- Hot tours to India
One of the most famous Indian resorts, which not so long ago was chosen by our compatriots who are fond of skiing, freeride, luge and, in general, everything that rolls from a snowy mountain as soon as possible. In the warm season, more leisurely, not too young golfers gather here.
The winter season lasts from the second half of December to March. Then, after a short "demi-season", the active phase of summer holiday lovers begins.
Slopes and slopes
However, Gulmarg still has a much greater attraction for fans. winter views sports. According to many experienced experts, the tracks in this region the globe, like no other, are quite well suited for those who are just starting to ride. It just so happened that it is preferable for beginners to master long, not too steep and rather snowy slopes.
Experienced skiers are more attracted to the so-called "freeride", or "off-piste skiing". As many have already guessed, this does not require a large and well-maintained track: everything happens on wild slopes, under the personal responsibility of an extreme lover.
As practice shows, the trails for beginners are always equipped not only with instructors, but also with specially trained people who carefully ensure that as many people go down alive as they climb the mountain.
Freeride in Gulmarg
Freeride
In the case of amateurs and freeride professionals, everything is somewhat more complicated. As a rule, in the Indian Gulmarg, no one is watching them, except for monkeys on snow-covered firs. And they are not the best helpers with an impending avalanche. That is why experienced experts strongly recommend that you first ask where you can go through a kind of "educational program" on behavior in the mountains of Gulmarg. It also helps to learn how to use walkie-talkies and other emergency communication devices that a freerider needs.
Since this area has a fairly large amount of precipitation, avalanches are also not uncommon here. But, fortunately, the bearded Indian guys from the local analogue of the Ministry of Emergency Situations are strictly vigilant so that people with skis in their hands do not run into the mountains during snowfalls.
Infrastructure
Naturally, it will not be very convenient to bring all the ski equipment with you. Therefore, local hotels offer rental of all equipment and numerous related specials. means like the same walkie-talkies. On average, all ammunition and skis directly cost 20-25 USD per day.
Prices on the page are for September 2018.
Hotels
It is worth noting that hotels in this region of India are quite diverse and differ significantly in terms of numerous comfort and cost criteria. So, a vacation in a three-star hotel will cost about 60-95 USD per day per person, in five-star luxury apartments the price tag is limited only by the imagination of the lucky owner of a bank account.
For those who feel like a person of a heroic fate, independent of the Internet, clean bed, philistinism, and also stoically going through life's hardships, the hotel 0 * (zero stars) with the pretentious name "Raja House" is highly recommended. A roof over your head, four walls on the sides, a bed - only 5-7 USD per day!
Entertainment and attractions of Gulmarg
During periods of the heaviest snowfalls, extreme lovers usually try to find more mundane entertainment for themselves. Some regretfully note their acute shortage. The bottom line is that Gulmarg is run by orthodox Muslims who don't take too well to loud music, short dresses and alcoholic drinks. However, according to eyewitnesses, in some hotels you can still find bars and discos, but there are very few of them here.
The so-called “house-bots” deserve special attention, which in Russian literal translation sounds like “house-boat”. And if Gulmarg is a mountain settlement, then immediately below it is Srinagar, locality on Dal Lake, which is famous for its "houses on the water." This ancient tradition originates from hoary antiquity and has now been somewhat rethought by the bigwigs of the tourism business. As a rule, all "boats" are now converted into hotels, cafes and other establishments aimed at tourists.
Gulmarg is a rare opportunity to solo (without crowds) descend on untouched snow from a height of 4115 meters in the Himalayas. Gulmarg is one of the highest ski resorts in the world (altitude difference of almost 2000 meters) with a convenient lift, which, however, is not popular and crowded. Located in India in the foothills of the Himalayas in the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Due to the height and abundance of snow, Gulmarg is ideal for backcountry, ski touring and heli-skiing.
The main thing to know
Kashmir is a disputed territory between India and Pakistan. At the same time, there are separatist sentiments within Kashmir itself that are pushing the idea of independence from both India and Pakistan. All this is the cause of some tension in the region. At the moment, the state is divided into three zones, which are controlled by India, Pakistan and China.
Gulmarg is controlled by the Indian military, which you will encounter immediately upon arrival at the airport in Srinagar (Srinagar). This is a military airport and there is simply no other nearby. Military vehicles regularly patrol the roads and villages. In many places there are checkpoints with armed soldiers. For Kashmir, this is normal. The military ensures the safety of the renion, since no one would go skating in Pakistan, for example, because it is not safe.
The attitude towards riders is good. And from the local and from the military. In general, the situation in the village and nearby villages is calm and I see that as long as Kashmir is controlled by the Indian military, it is safe to ride there. The main thing is not to go down to the opposite side of the ridge in Pakistan.
How to get to Gulmarg
The village of Gulmarg has transport connection with the nearest major city Srinagar. You can get to Gulmarg from Shirnagar by regular bus or by taxi. I prefer the second option, because it's faster and you can always cooperate with one of the riders at the airport: rent one car together - it will be cheaper. A taxi from the airport will cost about 3,000 rupees, and you may need to change in Thangmarg. From Srinagar to Gulmarg there is a winding Mountain road approximately 50 kilometers long. All cars that ply on it during the season have chains on wheels - otherwise you can’t get through.
Taxi from Srinagar to Gulmarg Although Srinagar Airport (SXR) has international status, I have not seen direct international flights. In fact, this is a former military airfield. First you have to get to India, and only then fly to Srinagar. Srinagar can be reached by regular flights from Delhi. For example, here is what it offers:
If you are flying from Russia, then read ours in the Asian direction. There is also a railway connection with Delhi, but Indian trains are even more extreme than freeride on the wild slope of Afarwat (this is the name of the peak from which you will descend in Gulmarg), so we leave this entertainment for those who have little adrenaline on the mountain.
There are buses from the nearest villages, but if you travel this way to Gulmarg, you know all this better than me and you don’t have to read further)
Lifts and slopes
The main lift in Gulmarg is 4 kilometers long and is divided into two phases. Phase 1 (Gondola Gulmarg) from height 2700 to height 3100 and Phase 2 from a height of 3100 to a height of 4115 meters. Depending on the weather situation, the avalanche service controls the operation of the lift, which is a six-seater closed cabin. There is also a four seater chair lift that starts from the level of the second phase and goes up to a height of 3700. The first phase is handled by a snowcat. The second is a completely wild freeride slope.
When the work of the main lifts is temporarily stopped due to heavy snow, near the boarding station of the first stage of the gondola, local guides will offer a descent through the forest towards Babaresi. It's another one interesting experience because the views are amazing. The forest in this area is simply incredible.
These are photos of our descents through the forest. The experience is fantastic. When you negotiate with the guide, bargain very strongly. They charge prices, but in fact their job is to take you down the hill and put you in the car. If you are traveling in a group, then the discount should be very large.
Avalanches
Due to climate and geographical conditions, there is a very high avalanche danger on the slope. You may not be allowed into the second phase of the lift without special avalanche equipment: a probe, a beeper and a shovel. Avalanche officers, usually hired Europeans and Americans, work in Gulmarg during the season. They constantly monitor the coverage and the avalanche situation and, depending on this, decide on admission to different areas of the slope. It is very common at the Hill Top and Pine Palace hotels to listen to a lecture on avalanche safety given by an officer for free.
Despite all security measures, avalanches often come down in Gulmarg and claim the lives of riders. To avoid this, you need to be aware of the current avalanche situation and stick to the recommended areas for skiing.
Season, climate, weather
The ski season in Gulmarg runs from January to March. This is due to the fact that the resort is located close to the equator. From January, winter monsoons begin to come to Gulmarg, which bring a lot of snow. Sometimes it snows for several days in a row and can fall on 1.5 meters per day. There is not just a lot of snow, there is a LOT of it. Snow qualitatively differs for the better from the powder that I met in the Alps and the mountains of the Caucasus. In the Himalayas, the snow is softer and lighter. The air temperature in the season at the peak of the slope never drops below -10 degrees. At the foot, the temperature is usually close to 0.
In March, the snow melts as quickly as it fell. Mountain streams carry water down, and the slopes are covered with green grass and flowers.
Prices in Gulmarg
Without exaggeration, I can say that Gulmarg is the most expensive place in India. But even the price you have to pay is nothing compared to the emotions and experience that a descent from the top of such a level can give.
In general, food, transport and rental will cost less than in European skiing. In the village there is a bank branch with an ATM and currency exchange. The hotels have restaurants with any cuisine to choose from, and on the slope and in the village you can find such open-air cafes.
Rental property in Gulmarg
Despite some remoteness and inaccessibility, there are many cool and decent hotels in Gulmarg. The choice is large: there are hotels, including 5 stars, and simple houses with bourgeois inside. From $20 per night and up to infinity. I prefer hotels that are closer to the lift so that you can walk in boats or roll out directly to the landing site on the board (Hill Top and Pine Palace). Average price per good hotel with breakfast near the ski lift $50-100 per night.
Check out this Gulmarg hotel map. Anything closer to Gulmarg Gondola is what you need. Gulmarg Gondola is the lift's boarding station. The map is clickable. You can zoom in and click on the hotels, it will show the price.
Equipment rental in Gulmarg
In Gulmarg there are chances to rent good equipment: boards, skis and boots, but there is also a chance that all this will be in different places and you will have to run around the village pretty much. The best option is to bring your own equipment. You should not overshadow skiing on the slopes of this level with rental equipment). Many airlines allow you to take sports equipment on board for free.
life hacks
- On the way from Gulmarg, stop for one night in Srinagar at Dal Lake. This place is famous for its houseboats. There are entire streets of boat houses on the lake that glow brightly at night. Housing is very cheap and you will remember such an experience for a long time. You can book a house-boat in advance through Airbnb (the link will have a coupon for 2100 rubles) or through Booking.
- If you want to continue your journey through India and go further by train (as we did), then you can leave your equipment and excess luggage in the luggage room at the airport in Delhi.
