Mongolia is the birthplace of Genghis Khan. The country of winds, lamb and steppes.
This is a review of a short independent travel to Mongolia. Rent a car with driver in Ulaanbaatar.

Mobile communications and Internet in Mongolia. Weather in Mongolia. Mongolian cuisine - what Mongols eat. National parks of Mongolia and photographs from them

Today is September 1st. As in Russia, in Mongolia this day is declared the Day of Knowledge. This day is celebrated with amateur performances, horse and camel racing, as well as a ban on the sale of alcohol in Ulaanbaatar restaurants.

Therefore, I, dear readers of this topic, am sitting, despondent, in the very center of Ulaanbaatar, with a glass of water and waiting for the grub I ordered.

Tomorrow I'll go eat meat stewed with stones. . And then .
By the way, they don’t sell, but there are plenty of drunken people on the street.

Traveling alone to Mongolia

I wanted to make this trip from Ulaanbaatar.
Last time it was proposed to travel together from Tomsk or Barnaul. But I am such that I can’t stand depending on anyone - it was suggested that I go in the company of someone whom I personally do not know and with whom I have never traveled anywhere before.

And I am very sensitive to my travel companions and I have long sworn off traveling with anyone. Therefore, I only considered Ulaanbaatar and renting a jeep here in Mongolia.

It turned out that cars are rented in Mongolia only with drivers.
It turned out, literally before leaving, that the SIXT company, which provided cars for rent at the Ulan Bator airport, had closed its representative office.

Imagine the situation: I have in my hands tickets purchased for miles from the Aeroflot company, the tickets have already been postponed from June to September since plans have changed somewhat... and here it’s such a bummer.

What to do? Of course we go!
I am Vinsky and must show by personal example how true independent travelers should behave.

On the day of departure to Ulan Bator (August 30), I sent similar letters to several Mongolian companies found by searching for “rent car Ulaanbaator” via Google and from several instant responses I chose the one that suited me the most:

• by price
• in the absence of a request to pay something in advance (I can’t stand giving money in advance)

I note that the Russian companies included in the mailing list gave the most monstrous prices.
As I understand it, they simply multiplied the prices existing in Mongolia by two.

So, I have a meeting party 4 hours before departure.
The backpack contains a windbreaker, socks, a couple of T-shirts, as well as a laptop, tablet, and phone.
I'm ready.
In duty free you buy vodka in small packages for gifts and a package of cookies for the same.

Visa to Mongolia

The Mongolian visa was arranged in advance. Costs $100. Of the entire necessary list of documents (tickets, application form, photo, certificate of employment, copy of the first page of the salary), only the invitation is difficult, but it is done easily through a Russian company based in Ulaanbaatar. The invitation costs 800 rubles. For other issues, it is better to contact the Mongols directly.

Now you don't need a visa to Mongolia

Ulaanbaatar Airport

Mongolia greeted me with a sign “Sergey Vinskiy - Welcome to Mongolia” and a sunny morning.
The taciturn driver walked me to the ordered jeep - Land Cruiser 80 and handed me a SIM card from the Mongolian operator Mobicom, purchased at my request.

Mobile Internet in Mongolia

By tradition, I’ll tell you about mobile Internet in the country where you plan to travel.
I took the SIM card for a newly purchased Samsung tablet - normal size, not micro.
It didn't work on the tablet. Then I took his Samsung phone from the driver and created an access point on it.

All. Although the Internet was weak - GPRS - I had it.
Let me make a reservation that in those places where I returned to Ulaanbaator this evening, there is no cellular communication at all. But on the way there, in small villages, you could check your mail.

Route in Mongolia

Since I had 4 days to do everything about everything (for the test, I decided not to risk it and fly to Mongolia for a short time), the route that I compiled using the English-language websites of Mongolian companies was logical:
— I don’t put Gobi on time
— lakes and fishing didn’t interest me for the first time
— Ulaanbaator didn’t interest me, especially

What is there within 300-400 km from the capital of Mongolia?
Eat Khustain nuruu— sand dunes (Elsen Tasarkhai), which in fact turned out to be a tourist attraction with Potemkin-like camel rides
Eat Kharkhorin— the ancient capital of Mongolia (you can spend 30 minutes exploring and then have lunch at Dream World)
Eat Orkhon valley- but this is already interesting.

First time in Mongolia

What you immediately notice in Mongolia is its identity as Russia: the same broken roads, an abundance of SUVs and trash along the roads. The same nondescript houses in the city - in Ulaanbaatar and on the periphery: I had a strong feeling that I was not in Mongolia, but in Buryatia or the Irkutsk region. Same.

We left the airport and went to the city to pick up groceries for the road.
Since I went on a full inclusive course, they were going to feed me 3 times a day, provide overnight accommodation along the route, and pay for any entry tickets and taxes, as well as refuel the car.

The price was announced by email and I agreed with it: 5 days 4 nights = 1050 dollars, not including the hotel for the last night in Ulaanbaatar.

I tried to change money at the airport, but the driver said softly (I had a Russian-speaking driver who understood Russian):

- No need to waste time. If you need tugriks, I will give them. Then, upon arrival, you’ll give it back.

The Cyrillic alphabet in an Asian country looks awkward and funny.
Mongolian writing was banned here in the 30s of the last century, when Chaibalsan began to build socialism in Mongolia, following the example of the CCCP.

Such devotion was generously rewarded with the massive construction of Khrushchev-era apartment buildings, panel houses with blue tiles (a la Biryulyovo), factories, mines and power plants.

There are three of them in Mongolia. One is located at the exit to the city on the way from the airport - a monument to socialism. One on one smoking monster on the Moscow Ring Road in the Kapotnya area.

The stores are full of products from the Russian Federation, as well as local vodka (Genghis Khan, naturally) and beer.

I had vodka with me, but I tried beer - the usual powdered rubbish like Siberian Crown or Klinsky.
Take the proven Tiger.

While they were picking up the food basket (in reality it was a basket full of canned goods), it started to rain. The sky turned gray and sank almost to the ground. It’s terrible - everything around is gray, and then there’s sadness and melancholy thrown on top.

We left the city along a completely broken road. Every minute someone tried to cut us off, there was a steady hum of horns, brand new Land Cruisers competed with broken Korean junk to see who could do who.

The only thing missing were loaves of bread and UAZ cars - they would show you Kuzka’s mother. But they were ahead.

Ahead was the real Mongolia.
This is how I imagined it: deserted, endless, cold, windy and incredibly beautiful

A little about driving culture in Mongolia

There is no culture. There is no respect. Pedestrians are schmucks. And they realize it.

Roads in Mongolia

The road to the west. Asphalt. In some places there are holes, potholes, potholes. The driver swears, mutters that asphalt in general is evil and there would be nothing better than it (asphalt).

All obstacles are driven around oncoming traffic or on the side of the road (more often). Despite the fact that there are often more potholes on the side of the road than on the asphalt, apparently there is some reason for this - I often noticed cars on the side of the road with their legs sticking out from under them and pieces of a burst tire just after such potholes on the road.

They do work on the road, but not much. What is placed in the pits is placed in water, in a puddle, and after a couple of months it pops out like a filling from a rotten tooth.
I told you that a Mongol and a Russian are brothers forever.

Roadside cafes in Mongolia

Two hours on the road. We need to have breakfast. We stop at a roadside canteen.
Very curious, while they bring me the soup with dumplings I ordered, I look at the audience: the driver.

They use this canteen as a hotel - there are rooms on the second floor and having received bed linen right there in the canteen, they go upstairs, holding a rolled-up mattress under their arm.

Catering workers can't stop watching a Russian TV series with Mongolian dubbing. Channel Russia2.

I ask my driver:
- yes, people here love Russian TV series, and although there are Korean and Chinese TV series, they watch Russian ones and that’s why they go on prime time.
I say that a Mongol and a Russian are brothers forever.

Obo and hadak in Mongolia

In Mongolia, here and there there are heaps, and sometimes heaps of stones, mixed with banknotes and candies.
As a rule (or rather always), in the center of such a pyramid there is a pole to which multi-colored ribbons are tied.
I saw something similar in Buryatia. I asked the driver - what are these, shamanic lures?

“No,” he says, “this is already a Buddhist topic, it’s called about.” Anyone who wants to receive a blessing from heaven must go around the pile clockwise and throw offerings. Usually it's candy or vodka - vodka is splashed into the sky, and then on all 4 sides.
- And the ribbons?
- This is a bad thing. Blue means heaven, white the soul, red courage, yellow wealth.

However, a blue hadak wouldn’t hurt us now, I thought, standing in the drizzling rain. Then he took a bottle of whiskey from his backpack and distributed it to each side of the world... and also wet the heavens.

Lamb in Mongolia

The asphalt gradually ended.
Or rather, it ended in a village whose name I naturally forgot. One attraction is the airfield. Almost overgrown with weeds. But once upon a time (during the times of the USSR) AN-2s flew here from Ulaanbaatar.

We bought meat in this village.
Lamb, a kilo costs about 2 dollars.

— Somehow your lamb is too smelly. I mean it smells like goat meat...
Let me tell you a secret: I am a big fan of lamb. Was. But after the soup with mouflon (goat) dumplings, which I ate in the canteen, although I washed it all down with plenty of vodka…. I feel like this smell is following me. And the sight of meat triggers my gag reflex.
- What are you talking about!...

And then an excursion into the process of cutting a ram or lamb carcass began.
At first it was said that Koreans, Chinese and other nationalities do not know how to slaughter cattle:

“They cut their throats and leave them tied upside down so that the blood flows out...

- Do you like to drink blood? — I couldn’t help but sarcastically, but the driver didn’t pay attention to it.

— First, they cut the skin of the ram on the belly….

- Isn't he in pain? - I interrupted again

- I don’t know, I’m not a sheep... So, after they made the cut, they put their hand in there and climb towards the spine. And there are two arteries there. So, you need to feel which is pulsating. Grab it tightly and tear it off.

“Oops...” was all I could say. I imagined it, winced, but didn’t back down.

- Well, why is this good?

“And therefore, look for yourself: our meat is red, because there is blood in it, but among the mountaineers it is white, because all the blood has flowed out.”

- Cool. I'll probably give up lunch today...

Wild Mongolia

And so began the Mongolia that I imagined based on the works of the film Mongol, Urga, the Territory of Love, the books of Chapaev and Emptiness... Although the latter rather concerns Baron Ungern - the driver was constantly tortured about him, however, like the treasure of Genghis Khan - this is generally from other sources.

I read a lot about Mongolia as a child.
Hills overgrown with spruce began, rivers began jumping over boulders, fields from hill to hill with lawn grass from the “golf” series began.

The jeep climbed steadily along the country road, skirting the black pumice of hardened lava that was thousands of years old.

This road is not asphalt. At every step, something new opens up to your gaze: a landscape, an animal, a bird, a hill. And how good it is that there are few people here.

Mongolian village

— Sergey, shall we have lunch? — the driver’s voice interrupted my admiration outside the windows of the jeep.
- Why not, and where?
- Now there will be a village. My friends live there - I warned them that we would stop by.
You will feel Mongolian hospitality at the same time.

Of course. That’s what I wanted - to be with a family. Not ostentatious, for tourists. But the real one. So, it's time to eat and drink bitter things.

The village is no different from what we saw on our last trip to Baikal: the same unpaved streets, multi-colored roofs, and all the trash in the yard, as if the village of the Plyushkins lives here.

The hut, or rather the house, is a solid one made of solid larch. The inside is predictably cheap with Chinese light fixtures on the ceiling and linoleum. But still better. than in our Russian wilderness.

And the people are not old women with drunken grandfathers: they are relatively young (by the way, I found out the age of the driver - he is the same as me, 46, but he looks like my grandfather (may he rest in heaven).

The hostess rustled when she saw us. She placed low stools next to the painted chest, covered with oilcloth.

A buuz threw an aluminum basin onto the table - this is a variant of Buryat poses and a plagiarism of Chinese jiaozi - steamed dumplings. Hole at the top for steam to escape.

A simple filling made from chopped lamb, but sooo fresh. Yes, fresh, but from the cold and rain near the cheerfully crackling potbelly stove. This is what we need.

I take out a Finnish check. Will you? As you wish.
I take a bowl of tea and pour it cold. Afterwards, I put a few buuz on my plate with my hands and on top the lecho I brought with me (my inclusion, however).

I eat the first one and burn myself with juice. Inserts immediately and without vodka.
I drink a bowl in one fell swoop and another bottle in my mouth.
The whole face is covered in tomato paste. The driver gives a rag - there are no napkins. Will pull.

So, while talking about politics, economics and women, we finish off a bowl and half a bottle of vodka...
Woo!!!
Now I’d like to get some sleep... But there’s still 50 km of difficult road ahead

How to cook marmot in Mongolia

Legend has it that there once was a brave warrior who could hit any target with a bow. And then one day he told everyone - I will shoot the Sun. And he took aim at the Sun, and pulled a tight bowstring, and fired, and the arrow would definitely have hit the Sun, if not for the swallow.

The swallow turned out to be the last because it knocked down the aimed flight of the arrow. Nothing happened to her - she flew off about her business. And the brave and accurate shooter swore:
“If I don’t kill this damn bird, I’ll cut off my thumbs and live underground.”

A year has passed.
The shooter was never able to hit and kill the swallow.
So the groundhog was born...

It is prohibited to kill marmots since almost all of them have already been eaten. Therefore, you have to contact poachers to repeat the cooking process with video.

The process of buying a groundhog is reminiscent of the process of buying marijuana: looking around, we go into the gateway. There they hand us a plastic bag with the carcass, take 45,000 and disappear.

We need to check to see if the groundhog is sick. This is done by visually inspecting the paw pads. If they are black, everything is fine and the marmot was as healthy as an ox. Well, if they are red, then there is a chance of contracting some kind of plague or anthrax.

But we still screwed up - we were treated like students: we definitely had to make sure that the groundhog was shot in the head. This is done like this: you inflate the marmot like a balloon through the place where the head once was (do not confuse it with the opposite!) and it becomes clear whether your animal is airtight or not. Ours turned out to be full of holes like a sieve.

They hit him with shot, no less... But this can also be treated: we patch it with improvised means - such as a tourniquet for car tires.

Karakoram

The ancient capital of Mongolia - Karakorum
Is it worth visiting?
Not worth it. Nothing very interesting to travel 350 km from Ulan Bator here.

If only you stop for 30 minutes on the way. Take a photo of the wall, weeds on the territory and several buildings of non-original “pagoda” architecture.

Well, if you are a believing Buddhist, you can spin the drums with mantras, and also look at the large bronze pot in which food was prepared for 200 monks.

There are several restaurants nearby: Dream World (at the time of my visit here it was closed and the guard waved a broom in front of my nose, upset about something) and a couple more at the campsites.

Old men and women from Europe and the USA are brought to the campsites, so that they can live a little in the shoes of the Mongols. Yurts with air conditioning and heating. Tourists walk with their mouths open at a model of a Mongolian warrior in armor standing in a restaurant.

The food is disgusting - complex. The service is such that the staff are apparently so tired of these grandfathers that the smile has been erased from their faces forever and hatred towards visitors drips onto the floor like Botax

Instead of visiting the ancient capital of Mongolia, the city Karakoram, I would advise you to try milking a yak.
I'll tell you an exciting activity.

Gorkhi-Terelj National Park

It takes 30-40 minutes to drive from Ulaanbaatar. The main thing is to leave Ulaanbaatar. Traffic jams here are worse than in Moscow.

Having paid the entry fee and entered the park, you instantly relax after the capital. There are few cars here. Beautiful nature. There are many places to stay: I recommend the UB-2 golf hotel. Not expensive - about $80 for a single. In the forest. There are women standing on the road selling berries (blueberries are now available in Mongolia).

Using UB-2 as a base, you can wander or ride a horse around the area during the day. There is a lake and a river in the park. I don't know about fishing. I didn’t see it - the Mongols don’t fish.

The valley through which the road passes is surrounded by beautiful rounded rocks. Here is the famous turtle rock, near which annoying traders will offer you to take a photo with an eagle for 1000 tenge.

In general, you can spend day and night. Suitable for those who are transiting Mongolia and want to check in there.

Horhog

At this point I decided to try horhog. This is a national Mongolian dish of stewed lamb with potatoes, milk and cabbage. Made in a can.

Made for 6-10 people.
Since I ordered it for myself, they made me a light version.
I know what I did was wrong.
But more than the taste of the dish - I know this dish well as lamb under sachem in Montenegro and Croatia, or as kuerdak in Kazakhstan - I was interested in:

Why put hot stones in a pressure cooker if the meat is stewed on the fire anyway?

This question was never really answered. I suspect that earlier, when pressure cookers were in short supply, the Mongols actually cooked meat with hot stones, as they do or goat (they don’t make ram with stones, since its bed bursts from the heat).

Cooked in a family that has a plot of land in national park Gorkhi-Terelj. WITH
I inform you that every Mongolian has the right to a free plot of land measuring 70 by 70 meters.

This does not apply to land in Ulaanbaatar and national parks.
This family was just lucky that their ancestors lived here. The family rents out yurts to city residents who come to the park for a picnic.

One of the women squats by the road with a GER poster and, if there is interest, escorts guests to the place.

I don’t know why, but the Mongols are attached to these very yurts.
When we come for a picnic, it’s customary for us to sit in the open air, and they sit and lie in these same yurts.

Many yurts are equipped with a satellite dish and a solar battery. But I didn’t see a shower or toilet in any of the yurts.
Flaw. The Mongols need to work on this issue.

How to cut up and eat a lamb's head

Written in a separate article: .

47.921378 106.90554

From Barnaul to the capital of Genghis Khan’s homeland - 2372.51 km. Many Altai tourists are increasingly choosing this particular direction for travel. We tell you what Mongolia attracts, how to get there, what to see and how much the trip will cost.

Why Mongolia?

Not everyone will decide to rush to Mongolia. Despite the relative proximity to Altai region, the path ahead is not the closest. This direction is mainly preferred by independent tourists.

Mongolia is located on a vast territory, so the distances between settlements are quite impressive, and the quality of the road surface cannot always be called good. Travelers are attracted by wild, untouched nature, National character, gastronomic novelties and unusual landscapes.

And also endless steppes, clear lakes, the Gobi Desert, snowy peaks, hospitality local residents. Here yurts are not entertainment for tourists, but usual life, food at the fire.

It’s not for nothing that Mongolia is called the land of blue skies. There are more than 260 sunny days a year, and in the Gobi Desert it may not rain for several years.

How to get there?

If you are traveling by car from Barnaul, then it is better to split the trip into several days. For example, get to the village of Aktash in the Altai Mountains, stop there for the night and relax. Moreover, the road to the Ulagansky district of the republic runs through stunning beautiful places. And it’s simply impossible to drive without stopping.

For example, you will have to overcome two passes: Seminsky and Chike-Taman, where you must take a photo as a souvenir. This also applies to the place where Katun and Chuya merge, and a few kilometers from the village of Aktash there is the famous Geyser Lake, which has become popular among tourists.

The road along the Chuysky tract is in excellent condition, however, repairs are underway in some sections, so forced stops or even traffic jams are possible. Some travelers say they had to stand for up to four hours before being allowed to pass.

The road along the Chuysky tract, although good, is not easy, you won’t be able to drive fast, and few people want to accelerate on mountain serpentines and winding descents. So you can make the next stop, for example, in the village of Tashanta, relax, gain strength and move on.

What documents are needed to travel to Mongolia?

You need a passport, driver's license, and car documents. But you don’t need to apply for a visa. More precisely: if you are going to stay in Mongolia for less than 30 days, then you won’t need it. If you expect the trip to last more than a month, then a visa is needed.

Of course, the import of drugs, psychotropic drugs and explosives, weapons and ammunition, samples of animal and plant tissue, as well as pornography is prohibited. If you intend to export furs and skins, gold, precious metals and precious stones, as well as items of cultural or artistic value from Mongolia, they must be presented to customs. The cost of each item should not exceed 500 USD; if this amount is exceeded, a duty of 10% to 100% must be paid.

These are not all restrictions, but there are not many of them. Please read them carefully before your trip.

Where to live?

As interest in Mongolia has increased in recent years, there is plenty on offer for tourists. In cities, tourists are offered accommodation in hotels, inns, and recreation centers. Prices vary; on the Internet you can find both very inexpensive offers (from 700 rubles per day) and hotel rooms for 20 thousand rubles.

But outside of Ulaanbaatar and major cities everything is much more complicated. The only accommodation option is a yurt. Most yurt camps are owned by private individuals. There are both cheap and expensive ones. A range of services from basic camping-type accommodation to luxury options with all amenities. Meals are usually half board or full board. The cost of accommodation starts from 2000 rubles per day.

It is advisable to look for a place to spend the night in advance, having already planned the route.

What is?

National Mongolian cuisine. Everyone's attitude towards her is different. Some people recommend not hoping too much for gastronomic pleasure, so as not to be disappointed. Others fall in love once and for all with tea with cream and salt, koumiss, and lamb dishes. By the way, basically everything meat dishes They are prepared specifically from sheep, and they also love goat meat. Less commonly, horse meat and beef. The food is filling and fatty. So if you are on a special diet for health reasons, it is better to take cereals with you and cook them yourself.

By the way, food in a cafe will cost very little; for example, for a plate of noodles with lamb you will have to pay about 120 rubles.

When to go?

Officially best season in Mongolia - from June to early September. However, travelers who traveled at other times say that Mongolia is always beautiful. The main thing is to take the right clothes. The more warm clothes, the better.

What to see?

It depends on what interests you first. Some come for fishing and scenery, others consider it necessary to visit the Gobi Desert. Mongolia is different for everyone. And this country occupies a huge territory. So you won't be able to watch it completely in one go. Or it will take a very long time.

But there are still places that are highly recommended to visit.

Natural attractions of Mongolia: Lake Khovsgol, the deepest in Central Asia. By the way, it is very popular for fishing and ecotourism. Travelers also choose to visit the valley of the Selenga River, which flows into Lake Baikal. You can also visit the sacred mountain Bogdo-Ula, the birthplace of Genghis Khan, the surrounding area of ​​which has the status of a nature conservation zone. And, of course, if you are primarily interested in nature, go to the Gobi Desert. This, of course, is a drop in the ocean from what you can see in Mongolia.

One lunch or dinner in an inexpensive restaurant will cost about 190 rubles. In a higher class establishment - about 1200 rubles. Prices for food in supermarkets differ from those in Barnaul. It's more expensive in Mongolia. For example, a loaf of bread costs 44 rubles, a carton of milk costs approximately 62 rubles, eggs (12 pieces) cost 142 rubles. Vegetables and fruits are also more expensive than in Barnaul.

Accommodation, if you are not traveling with tents, is also a significant expense.

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I just want to drive off into the endless steppes. And so that the wind is in your head. Harness it.

The article is huge, you will need navigation:

Let's gallop.

When to go to Mongolia?

Thanks to the fiercely continental climate, the country has changeable and windy weather.In winter - frost, minus 25°С - 35°С. At this time of year, Ulaanbaatar leads the list of the coldest capitals in the world.In summer - up to plus 25°С - 35°. The heat is softened by the winds that blow across the steppe, but they also sometimes create sandstorms.In spring and autumn there are sharp temperature changes.Comfortable time is from May to October.

There is also an advantage: more than 250 clear days a year, which is why Mongolia is called the country of blue skies. A dream for those who like to have clear days and look at buckets of stars.

Do I need a visa

Since 2014, Russian citizens do not need a visa if you do not intend to travel for more than 30 days. All you need is a passport.

If you want to come for a couple of months, you need to apply for a visa.Embassies exist in Moscow, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, Kyzyl and Yekaterinburg.

How to get to Mongolia

By plane

There is only one international airport in Mongolia, in Ulaanbaatar. From Moscow you will find tickets with a bunch of transfers from Turkish Airlines.Cost from 29,000 rubles.

It is also easy to reach with direct flights from Aeroflot and Mongolian Airlines. The flight is about 6 hours.Cost from 35,000 rubles.

But from Buryatia you can find tickets from 6500 rubles.

From the airport to the city center, take a taxi for $5 or walk a kilometer to bus stop ( here) - for $0.2.

By bus

Cool option for composite trip to Baikal. Every day at 7:30 a.m. bus station Ulan-Ude to Ulaanbaatar heading off regular bus. The journey takes 12 hours, slight delays at the border are possible. Buy your ticket at the box office or at travel agency website.

Cost: from 1500 rubles one way.

During Pobeda Airlines sales, plane tickets to Ulan-Ud can be purchased for 6,500 rubles round trip.

By train

For those who want to take a ride on the legendary Trans-Siberian Railway: a train departs from Moscow every two weeks. You will have to listen to the sound of wheels for a little more than 4 days.Cost: from $200 one way.

Trains depart from Irkutsk 3 times a week. On the road – 1.5 days.Cost: from $80 one way.

You can buy tickets for this route only at the box office.

By car

There are a dozen border crossing points operating on the border with Russia. Main post - Kyakhta , 24/7. Works only with motorists; walking is not possible.

The distance from the border to Ulaanbaatar is 350 km. However, know that there are practically no roads there, if you love your “swallow”, then think twice.

Customs

It is important to remember that you can import no more than $2000, 200 cigarettes, 1 liter of strong alcohol or 3 liters of beer duty free.

It is also prohibited to carry with you: archaeological finds, meat or fish, metal detectors and anything that a decent traveler does not take on the road.

The time difference between our capitals is +5 hours

Money is not a question

The country's national currency is the tugrik (MNT). Exists only in paper form. Not here for coins.

Conditional conversion to other currencies (February 2019): 1$ = 2600.1₽ = 40, and 1€ = 3000.

Take dollars with you, in some places you can also pay with them. But there won’t be any big problems with other currencies either. You definitely need to have money in cash. If in the capital there are no problems with banks and cash machines, then in other parts of the country such amenities may not be found.

Immediately after crossing the border (or at the markets), street money changers will offer a favorable rate. It's a matter of risk.

Who will meet: about people

Population density - 1.7 people per square kilometer, and for every Mongol you meet there are 13 horses.

It's not possible to remain incognito. But that's actually great. Indeed, thanks to the harsh climate and nomadic lifestyle, the Mongolian people are super hospitable: giving a place to sleep and food to a stranger is considered commonplace. If you don’t know where to spend the night, you can always count on being “sheltered.” However, if you are invited to visit, remember some rules of Mongolian decency.

• Don't refuse the treat.
• Do not take gifts with your left hand.
• Do not lean on the supporting pillar of the yurt.
• Don't whistle.
• Don't stand with your back to the older generation.
• Don't throw trash into the fire.

All signs and names are readable for our people, since the Cyrillic alphabet is used. And Mongolian children study Russian as a foreign language. There are even those who speak well, but there is no need to rely on it.

U in English also the status “everything is complicated.” Therefore, download a phrasebook in advance or learn simple phrases:

• Hello - Sayn bayna uu
• Where is? - Ene gazar khaana baidag ve
• Do you know Russian? - Oros heliig ta madekh үү?
• I don’t understand - Bi oilyhguy baina
• Yes - Tiimee
• No, no
• Thank you - Bayarlalaa
• Sorry - Uuchlaaray
• What is the price? - Kher ikh baina ve?
• Expensive - Unetey
• Goodbye - Bayartay

Movement across the steppes

The area of ​​Mongolia is slightly more than 1.5 million km², and the distances between cities and attractions are sometimes prohibitive. You can't get away with it on foot.

• A truly Mongolian version of transportation is horseback riding. But this option is for the strong and brave, who have nowhere to rush.
• It’s more comfortable and cheaper to move between settlements by train. So from Ulaanbaatar you will travel 500 km to the Gobi Desert for only $3.5. You can find out the schedule and buy tickets at website.
• For about the same money you can travel by bus. But the lack of roads is unlikely to make travel more convenient than by train. If you still choose this route, buy tickets at the bus station.
• There are many small airports. But air tickets are not too cheap - from 4,000 rubles.
• Renting a car is a risky idea, you can get lost. If you still decide, then Russian rights will do. Also take cash for deposit.

In the usual rental cars the cost: from $70 per day, for a jeep - all of $100. In Mongolian Avito you'll find it much cheaper.

• The most reliable option is to rent a jeep or “loaf” with a local driver. Payment is around $100 per day.
• Or go to organized tour. Ask your hotel about these options.

Communication and Internet

Mongolia has normal cellular communications and the Internet, although it would seem.

Major operators: Unitel, Mobicom and Skytel. 2 GB internet are worth 1$. More profitable than connecting to Russian roaming.

Almost all hotels, cafes and other establishments offer free Wi-Fi.

Cuisine of Mongolia

Mongolian cuisine is nutritious and very tasty. Directly related to climate and nomadic lifestyle. Vegetables simply don't grow here. Therefore, if you point your finger at the menu, they will bring meat. They prepare lamb, beef, and, a little less often, horse meat and goat meat.

You can eat in numerous establishments throughout the country. And here's what you can say about them:

• They serve huge portions. If you order a dish with the prefix “khaan”, the size will be like that of Genghis Khan.
• Most a budget option- eat in the dining room. Find out by the sign “Tsayny gazar” or “Guanz”. The average check in such establishments is $2.
• The cafe is a little higher class - “Zoogiin Gazar”. The check is about $4.
• In “expensive-rich” establishments the average cost is $15.
• It is not customary to leave a tip here.
• There are also vegetarian establishments, where dishes are duplicated without meat.
• Most dishes are fatty, take medicine that can help with heaviness in the stomach.

Dishes you need to try

• Buuz - m Ongolian version of the usual manti. HTo fill up, you will need 2-3 pieces.
• Huitsaa. If they offer you a taste of dick, then do not rush to quarrel with the offenders. This is a rich soup made from fat tail fat and minced meat.
• Khuushuur. A word stuffed with the letters "u". And the dish represents chebureks stuffed with minced meat.
• Tsuiwan - noodles fried with meat and potatoes.
• Fighter - dried meat, which is cut into small strips.
• Boodog - about himself National dish. This is a lamb fried from the inside with hot stones. Finding this dish is not so easy. E the same as a whole lamb, roasted from the inside with hot stones, well.
• Aaruul - dried cottage cheese from the milk of various animals.

Drinks you need to try in Mongolia

• Suutei tsai is green tea that is boiled with milk, adding butter, salt and flour. If you eat it with dumplings, you get banshtai tsai.
• Airag is a foamy, refreshing, sweet and sour fermented milk drink. This is kumiss.
• Archi (Be healthy) is a national vodka infused with mare's milk. Strength - 38 degrees.

5 great establishments

1. Modern Nomads, on the map.
2. Luna Blanca Restaurant, on the map.
3. The Bull, on the map.
4. BD's Mongolian Barbeque, on the map.
5. Grand Khaan Irish Pub, on the map.

Mongolian shopping

In the spring, when mountain goats begin to shed, the animals disappearThey are shed, the undercoat is selected, the yarn is woven and fabric is made. This is how cashmere is made - the main hit of Mongolia. Things made from this fabric are amazingly soft and warm.However, the price for such a product is also amazing, but it is definitely worth it.Buy from factories:

• Gobi Cashmere, on the map
• Buyan, on the map
• Goyo, on the map

Also great gifts would be:

1. leather products;
2. wool socks from the Yanmal factory;
3. carpets;
4. National costumes;
5. goods from neighboring China.

You can find everything listed at the largest market Naran Tuul ( on the map ) or in souvenir shops.

Where to live?

Outside Ulaanbaatar the only living options are - camp sites working with sightseeing tours. Such unique yurt towns.

Hotels in the usual sense of the word (with separate numbers and other requests) - found only in the capital.

• A bed in a dormitory room will cost from 4$.
• Private room - from 7$.
• Room in a five-star hotel - from 58$.

Ulaanbaatar

This is not only the capital of the country, but also rightfully the “capital” of any trip to this state. Essentially the only one Big City, in standard representation. Now it is changing at a dizzying pace: new residential areas and even skyscrapers are appearing would.

Half of the country's citizens already live here - 1.4 million people.

Despite the rapid pace of construction, Ulaanbaatar is the only capital where yurt quarters are still preserved.

Transport

• The metro was not built right away. The opening is promised in 2020.
• It is convenient to travel around the city by buses, trolleybuses and minibuses. Here is the route map , will you be able to figure it out?
• Buy a card like the Moscow “troika” and top up your deposit. Travel within the city will cost about $0.2 , go to the region - about 1$ .
• Taxi - $0.3 per kilometer.

Gandan

The monastery around which the city once began to form. The full name is Gandantegchenlin, translated as “Great Chariot of Comprehensive Joy.” The main temple houses a renowned 26-meter tall bodhisattva statue.

Spin the prayer wheels as you walk clockwise around the stupa. Afterwards, “fumigate” your wallet for material well-being.

Monastery opening hours: from 9:00 to 16:00. Paid entrance only to the Magjid Janrayseg Temple. On the map .

A few more interesting places within the city:

• Winter Palace of Bogd Khan. Entrance fee is $3. On the map.
• Zaysan complex with an observation deck. On the map.
• Central Square of Sukhbaatar. On the map.

Near the capital

In the vicinity of Ulaanbaatar there is interesting program, and if you really want to, you can conquer everything in one day.

Get to most places by public transport maybe half. Therefore, you will have to catch a taxi or take a tour.

Monument to Genghis Khan

Tallest equestrian statue in the world. The main symbol of the state and one of the wonders of Mongolia. If you believe the legends, the history of the entire empire begins here, and the “steel conqueror” looks towards the home that was never destined to be reached.

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RTPYUYFBFSH LPNNEOFBTYY (2)

A line of dozens of cars lined up behind us, about 200 meters from the border. We made sure that our cars were not thrown into a ditch or had their tires punctured and mentally thanked the border guard.
At 9:00 the border opened, and we entered with the first batch of cars right after two buses that squeezed through oncoming traffic. As it turned out, we made a very successful stop - immediately after us the border was closed to cars and fuel tankers were allowed to bypass the traffic jam. This cost everyone else a couple of hours of wasted time on top of the normal queue. By the way, all gasoline in Mongolia is either ours or Chinese. The attitude towards Chinese in Mongolia is about the same as ours towards everything Chinese - “ugh, this is Chinese gasoline, go to that gas station, they may not have 95, but the gasoline is good (read: Russian)”
So, we stopped at the border. Looking ahead, the whole procedure took us 2 hours - about 1 hour or so at our border (from the moment of entering the checkpoint zone), then we need to drive through a clear zone of about 20 km, where we cannot stop, then we stood a little before entering the Mongolian checkpoint, filled out the papers in Mongolian (with duplication in English - this is important, because previously travelers complained that these forms were not translated at all - now at least something can be understood there) and crossed the Mongolian border two times faster than ours.

I’ll tell you more about crossing the border. 6 machines are started. They stand around three big metal tables on which absolutely everything from the cars will need to be shaken out. Well, that's all! They only allowed me not to turn the glove compartment inside out. First - passport control, then you return to the car, which in front of you is searched very closely with dogs, they ask you to open the hood and ask routine questions about drugs. I had a gas canister and had to throw it away. There were no problems with the rest. There were 3 20 liter canisters in the trunk, only one of which was full. I took out all 3 and placed them side by side. If my memory serves me right, then despite all the strictness of the procedure, no one even approached them. No one found or examined the secrets under the seats and under the floor in Kuga either. Essentially, from our side everything is more or less simple and clear, and if anything happens, they will tell you, the border guards are friendly and talkative. A small nuance - this border is only a car border and you cannot cross it on foot, so in front of the border you meet people who ask to get into a car to cross the border. I read that it was extremely unsafe - the people were different, including drug trafficking, so they didn’t take anyone, although there were seemingly decent-looking Europeans - the most dangerous type - you don’t expect a trick from them)
Standing with us in the queue at passport control was a local who makes money by taxing across the border. He told us that we almost ended up on the holiday of Naadam, when the border is simply closed for 4 days! The holiday is big. We didn’t feel it, because... They were mostly on the road, but they believed that the main attributes of the holiday were horse racing, archery tournaments and traditional wrestling. Wrestling, by the way, is very unique - there are no boundaries of the ring - everything happens on football fields(from what we saw on TV), there are no time limits, or rather, if there are, we used to change the channel)) The men are standing, pushing and trying to grab each other by the meager items of clothing. This differs from sumo at least in that the wrestlers are quite athletic and not so fat, although they are pot-bellied. In general, a spectacle for everyone)
At the border we observed the following picture: a thorn and a strip of sand for footprints stretch beyond the horizon as far as the eye can see. We look and see that a herd of cows is trudged across the border through some gate. And damn, they obviously don’t show anyone their passports or luggage)) We asked the border guards about this, and they said that yes, in the 20 km zone between the borders it is allowed to graze cattle within the framework of intergovernmental agreements) In short, cows migrate calmly)