“After that, after staying here, we went to two small islands, which are located in the south of the Big Solovetsky Island... they are visible from the shore... German and Russian Body. Here we found “tours” - stone pyramids made of boulders But the search for labyrinths turned out quite funny. We knew that they were described, that they existed on Zayatsky Island... we looked for this labyrinth for a long time... then we looked... we were standing in this very labyrinth... That's it. It was so overgrown that it wasn’t noticeable. It’s all cleared out now.” (. Solovki of the Sixties. Interview "Solovki Encyclopedia", Toronto. 04/04/2009)
Solovetsky witness
Briefly about Solovki
"The conference participants had the opportunity to get acquainted with the most interesting monuments ancient history Kuzova archipelago, visit the labyrinths on the island. Zayatsky (Solovetsky archipelago)... In order to preserve natural cultural heritage It was recommended to close some of the islands to the public." (Bodies that beckon. )Navigation, ships and the history of shipping off the Solovetsky shores
ELEPHANT Fleet
NevaNew Solovki
“The highest point of the rocky Kuzov archipelago is located on the largest of the islands - Russian Kuzov. Its height is 123 meters. It is like the roof of the entire Karelian White Sea region. Above this mark there is only the sky. It is difficult to say why these rocks remote from the mainland turned out to be attractive to our ancestors , but a couple of thousand years ago people lived on this harsh land. They left an amazing memory of themselves. Two percent of the entire territory of the archipelago is occupied by various kinds of religious objects: sacred stones (seids), mysterious labyrinths..." ( The author is unknown. About the monuments of the historical and cultural heritage of Northern Europe. Newspaper "Karelia", Petrozavodsk. 02/06/2001)
German and Russian Body:
"Kuzovki" - part of the Solovki archipelago
German Body or Legend
about petrified Swedes
“The stones are called seids. They are often found in the Kuzov area... Not far from Solovki there are Kuzov islands... These Kuzovs have the most luxurious stones, but the monks of the Solovetsky monastery did not take stones from the Kuzovs for the arrangement of the monastery, although they are much closer to them They preferred to travel 60 kilometers to pick them up...
Why?
- when one Swedish detachment decided to attack the Solovetsky Monastery. The Swedes landed on one of the islands (Kuzov) and decided to suddenly attack the monks. The Russian detachment tracked them down, the effect of surprise was broken, and the Swedes decided to abandon their plan, but... So the German Body and the Russian appeared... There are stones here and there." And you can’t touch them! ( Galina Sokhnova. As a child, she dreamed of learning the mysteries Egyptian pyramids. Newspaper "Karelia", Petrozavodsk. 02/20/2003)
“The labyrinths and holy seids on the Kuzov archipelago are evidence of the most ancient northern civilization. These amazing islands are located in the White Sea. From the old small ship on which you can get here, you first see only rocky shores and peaks, and then lonely spruce trees and unusual bush-like multi-trunked birches And there are so many berries and mushrooms here! Rare birds listed in the Red Book nest here.
But the main thing that literally attracts archaeologists from all over the North-West and from the Scandinavian countries is the mystery of the archipelago - ancient religious buildings. They testify that the Russian North was not a wild, barbaric region. It turns out that the islands in the White Sea are the cradle ancient culture, the main content of which was the spiritual insight of the aborigines - religious and, apparently, the same thing, cosmic. The first written evidence of historical monuments I wrote down body labyrinths and seids dating back to the nineteenth century, and then many Russian travelers talked about them. Locals have long known about the existence of bizarre stone structures and called them “petrified Germans,” connecting them with the events of the Swedish intervention in the White Sea region in 1611." ( Svetlana Tsygankova. Epiphany of the Lapps. Newspaper "Russia", Moscow. 05/22/2003)
Body - a combination of landscapes
and ancient monuments
“The Kuzova archipelago on the White Sea coast is distinguished by a unique combination of amazingly beautiful natural landscapes and numerous ancient monuments. Traces of ancient culture, various types of Sami shrines (seids, labyrinths) were discovered here. Man-made monuments are a kind of man-made addition to the natural environment.
Each island of the archipelago has its own unique appearance. Climatic conditions White Sea, more severe than those located to the north of the Barents Sea, contribute to the formation of specific natural communities here. On some islands there are unique spruce forests that have retained their original appearance. Animal and flora The archipelago is distinguished by the abundance and diversity of Arctic species compared to the mainland. Thus, in Kuzovy the proportion of Arctic birds is higher than in other areas of Karelia. The population of the auk (this species is listed in the Red Book of Eastern Fennoscandia) on one of the islands of the archipelago is the largest in the White Sea. Marine mammals such as seals, bearded seals, and beluga whales are found in coastal waters. The list of rare and vulnerable representatives of birds and mammals that are regularly found on the Kuzova archipelago and require special protection includes 27 species, of which 17 are listed in the Red Books of Russia, Karelia and Eastern Fennoscandia.
On the archipelago there are six ancient human sites of the late Mesolithic and Bronze Ages, 2 labyrinths, 2 large and 2 small religious complexes, as well as an abundance of sacred seid stones. In total, about 800 different ritual stone structures were discovered, traces of the life and activity of people who lived here thousands of years ago. According to Scandinavian archaeologists, the stone structures on Kuzovy are similar to the sacrificial complexes of Northern Fennoscandia, which suggests a common origin as a material manifestation of the ancient Sami culture. At the same time, the cultural heritage of the Karelian White Sea region is unique in terms of the number and diversity of archaeological finds.
Research by scientists indicates the international significance of cultural and natural heritage of the Kuzov archipelago, as well as the need for further comprehensive scientific research. Thus, from a botanical point of view, the islands continue to remain largely a blank spot; the inventory of religious objects has not been completed, and detailed excavations of settlements have not been carried out. There is no doubt that the study of the Kuzov archipelago by specialists of various profiles will reveal many of its secrets." ( Evgeny Ieshko, Nadezhda Mikhailova. Bodywork that beckons. Newspaper "Karelia", Petrozavodsk, 07/19/2001)
The Solovetsky regatta goes through the Kuzova archipelago
“The 32nd edition started today in the White Sea... Its length is 120 miles. The route ran from Blagopoluchiya harbor through the islands of Sennukha Bolshaya, Rovnyazhy, Beloguzikha, Verkhniy (Kuzova)... Before the first start of the regatta on Solovki, its grand opening took place. Yachtsmen race organizers and veteran submariners congratulated him, and flowers were laid.The 32nd will last until August 12 in the waters of Dvina, Onega Bay and Kandalaksha Bay of the White Sea. It is dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the Russian submarine fleet. The Solovetsky Regatta is the northernmost sailing regatta in Russia. Her route takes her just a few miles from the Arctic Circle. The first Solovetsky regatta started in the summer of 1974." ( Andrey Ruzhnikov. Solovetsky Regatta: all ages are submissive to the sea. News Agency "Dvina-Inform", 08/03/2006)
The warships of the Swedes and the British fell in love with Kuzov
“In the summer of 1611, a Swedish detachment entered the White Sea by boat; however, this time the Swedes did not dare to attack either Solovki or the Sumsky fort. After standing for some time near the Kuzov Islands, they turned back, destroying a number of settlements in Lop Pogosts." ( Zherbin A. Migration of Karelians to Russia in the 17th century. Gosizdat. Petrozavodsk, K-F SSR, 1956)
“In the summer of 1611, the Swedes made a second campaign to the White Sea, about which, unfortunately, fragmentary and meager information has reached us. It is only known that in June - July, along the river”, the Swedish infantry on boats sailed into the White Sea and landed on the Kuzov Islands, which is 30 versts west of Solovki, but did not dare to attack the fortress, guarded by artillery. Having stood near the monastery without any benefit until the fall, Stuart's bollards returned to their places." ( Froomenkov G. ).
“The last time during the navigation of 1855 the British appeared at the Solovetsky Monastery on September 9. As in previous visits, they landed on Bolshoi Zayatsky Island and stayed on it on September 9, 10 and 11... On the morning of September 11, the English frigate weighed anchor and went to the Kuzov Islands. The Solovetsky Monastery no longer saw enemy ships. The ships of the Anglo-French squadron left the northern waters of Russia..." ( Froomenkov G. Solovetsky Monastery and the defense of the White Sea region. Northwestern book publishing house. 1975).
From Krasnoyarsk via Solovki and Kuzova
kayak to St. Petersburg
Oleg Igoshin covered 6.5 thousand kilometers from Krasnoyarsk through Solovki and Kuzov to St. Petersburg in a kayak in 100 days... The White Sea, reached the Solovetsky Islands, and then to the Russian Kuzov Islands. Next is the White Sea-Baltic Canal, Lake Onega, the Svir River, the Novo-Ladoga Bypass Canal and the Neva! ( Love Cancer. Captain of the Polar Butterfly. "Truda", Moscow, 02/26/2004)
Actually, Kem is the one Gulag Archipelago described in the book Solzhenitsyn.
From Kemi we went many times to Solovki. This time the intermediate point before Solovki was. There are more than 200 islands in the archipelago, the largest are Russian and German Body.
As usual, after spending the night at the hotel " Berth“We, having agreed in advance with the boat, went to these islands.
The islands are already clearly visible from afar.
German island
And so we moor at German island. The boat cannot come close to the shore, as there is aground there, so we are dropped off right on the rocks. Now all our equipment (tents, cameras and most importantly - water - for a week for 10 people) must somehow be moved from the rocks to level ground.
Fortunately, there is a way out!
With the help of a kayak with a sail, all the equipment was successfully transported to a level place, where we set up camp.
There was even a small bathhouse not far from our camp.
After setting up camp and having lunch
we immediately got down to business.
Sanctuary of the Ancestors
The main attraction on the German island is Sanctuary of the Ancestors. This is the highest point not only of this island, but of the entire chain of islands Kem Skerries.
From here nature simply fascinates with its incredible power!
Birds of the Body Archipelago
There are a lot of different birds on the island,
and, of course, seagulls.
And there are berries everywhere where there is even a little bit of poor soil. True, not all of them are suitable for everyone. Some ate them by the handful, while others felt slightly ill after a short time (me, for example).
Rocks
And on the rocks you can see patterns like this.
In principle, fresh water can be collected from such pockets. But since we were warned that there were no springs here, we brought water with us.
Periodically, fog descended on us, transforming everything around us.
Russian Island
This is what it looks like in the fog Russian Island.
Seydy
And here you can see seids. These are sacred stones shaped like human figures.
Sunsets
And what sunsets!
The week flew by quickly, a boat came for us, and we set off.
Information about the Solovetsky Islands and the Kuzov Archipelago
The Solovetsky Archipelago, or Solovki, is located in the western part of the White Sea between Karelian Pomerania and the Summer Coast of the Onega Peninsula, not far from the Arctic Circle and consists of six large and many small islands. The most famous is Bolshoy Solovetsky Island - approximately 25 kilometers long and 16 kilometers wide (246 sq. km). Other islands are much smaller and located on either side of it: to the east - Anzersky Island (47 sq. km), to the south - the islands of Bolshaya and Malaya Muksalma (17 and 0.57 sq. km) and on the west - the islands of Bolshoy and Maly Zayatskie (1.25 and 1.02 sq. km). All islands have a relatively flat topography with small hills. The picturesque ruggedness of the Solovetsky shores, boulder deposits along the sea, wide tracts of mixed forests, and lakes scattered among them are unique.
Over the many years of living on the islands, people connected their individual parts with roads, connected lakes with canals, cleared hayfields, and built dams. Harbors, fishing grounds, fish tanks were built on the islands, a dock was built, and many trades and crafts were established. Today, every year many tourists and pilgrims visit Solovki - they rush to get acquainted with the sights of the islands and, first of all, to see the majestic buildings of the Solovetsky monastery, covered in legends.
Solovetsky Islands on the map:
Archipelago Kuzova
On the sea route from the port of Kem to the Solovetsky Islands lies the Kuzov archipelago, which includes 16 uninhabited islands, the largest of which are Russian and German Kuzov. Highest points archipelago - German Body (140 meters) and Russian Body (123 meters). These are the highest elevations in the entire Karelian White Sea region.
The archipelago surprises with its nature. Relief features, geographical location islands provide both the aesthetic and landscape uniqueness of each island, giving the overall impression of a harsh but harmonious world of northern nature. An integral part of the island landscapes are forests. Even the name of the archipelago, according to one version, comes from the Karelian “kuusi” - spruce, that is, “spruce islands”.
The place is famous for its ancient sites, labyrinths, religious complexes, as well as the abundance of sacred stones - seids. About 800 different stone structures were discovered here, occupying 2% of the entire territory of the archipelago. Religious objects were created by the ancient Sami population, which appeared in the White Sea region 2-2.5 thousand years ago, hunting, fishing and owning small herds of reindeer. Religious monuments of the ancient Sami are included in the list of protected sites of all-Russian significance.
Diverse and rich fauna islands. The coastline is undoubtedly dominated by seagulls. There are also ptarmigan, auk, guillemot, common eider, etc.
In the sea near Kuzov you can find ringed seals, bearded seals (the largest seal in Arctic waters) and beluga whales. In these places you can feel what a real holiday in Karelia is like.
The Kuzova Archipelago is a specially protected area
Not only mainland lands, but also islands have always played a major role in the history of the White Sea region. On the sea route from the port of Kem to the Solovetsky Islands lies the Kuzov archipelago, which includes 16 uninhabited islands, the largest of which are Russian and German Kuzov. The highest points of the archipelago are German Kuzov - 140 m and Russian Kuzov - 123 m. These are the highest points in the entire Karelian White Sea region.
The archipelago surprises with its nature. The peculiarities of the relief and geographical location of the islands provide both the aesthetic and landscape uniqueness of each island, giving rise to the overall impression of a harsh but harmonious world of northern nature. An integral part of the island landscapes are forests. Even the name of the archipelago, according to one version, comes from the Karelian “kuusi” - spruce, i.e. "Spruce Islands"
The archipelago is famous for its ancient sites, labyrinths, religious complexes, as well as the abundance of sacred stones - seids. About 800 different stone structures were discovered here, occupying 2% of the entire territory of the archipelago. Religious objects were created by the ancient Sami population, which appeared in the White Sea region 2-2.5 thousand years ago, hunting, fishing and owning small herds of reindeer. Religious monuments of the ancient Sami are included in the list of protected sites of all-Russian significance.
The seids and idols discovered on the Big German Body and the Russian Body have no equal either in the originality of their construction, or in their diversity, or in their quantitative composition throughout that large territory that was occupied by the Sami tribes at the turn of our chronology.
The “double-humped” island of Bolshoy Nemetskiy Kuzov stands before us majestic in its harsh beauty among the vast expanses of the White Sea. An indelible impression is left by the steep rocky mountain slopes covered with lichens and mosses, the huge sheer walls of broken rock in primordial chaos with bizarre figures of giant deities...
At the top of the Big German Body Mountain there was a real pantheon of Sami deities. Although some may best part, the monuments of the sanctuary were destroyed, up to one and a half hundred seids and other stone idols were preserved on the top of the mountain.
According to the belief of the Sami, the ancient inhabitants of the White Sea region, seids and other idols help people in fishing and hunting. Therefore, seids were placed on high banks and islands of reservoirs so that they were visible from afar. Sacrifices were made to seids and idols. Therefore, it is not surprising that the high rocky mountain of the Great German Body, dominating all the Kem Islands, became a sanctuary. And the places in the Kuzov area have been the center of marine industries since ancient times.
An interesting Pomeranian legend about “petrified Germans” is associated with idol seids. Tradition tells that once upon a time, “German people” (as the Pomors called the Swedes in the past) wanted to attack the “holy Solovki”. A storm overtook them at sea. The Germans took refuge in the northern Kuzovs. From the top of the mountain of the island they could see the white stone walls of the Solovetsky Monastery. But frequent storms at sea, sent from above, did not allow the Germans to sail further. One day, when the “German people” were sitting around a fire having a meal, God punished the enemies by turning them into stones. This is how the “petrified Germans” sit to this day on the top of the mountain of the island, which has since been called the Big German Body.
The basis of the legend was, on the one hand, a historical event of the beginning of the 17th century, when a Swedish detachment tried to attack the Solovetsky Monastery from the Kuzov side, and, on the other hand, the Sami belief about turning a person into stone.
Seids on the Big German Body are huge angular boulders placed on small stones - on “legs”. On the upper surface of the seid stone, as a rule, there are several small stones, and under them, in some cases, small multi-colored pebbles.
Other idols have different shapes and combinations of stones and are smaller in size. Notable among them are idols that have the appearance of a crude sculptural bust of a person; according to Pomeranian legend, “petrified Germans.” This is a boulder resembling the shape and size of the upper torso of a person. On it is a stone shaped like the head of a person, bird or dog. In front of such idols there are two cylindrical stones (only some have survived). They resemble arms extended forward.
The third, most numerous group of idols are usually medium-sized boulders different shapes, on the elevated part of which one or more stones the size of cobblestones are installed.
Monuments of the second Sami sanctuary have been preserved on the top of Bald Mountain on Russky Kuzov Island. There are also up to one and a half hundred idols, among them several unique ones, reminiscent in shape " Stone woman"This is a standing, oblong granite slab, supported on both sides by two rounded slabs. In addition, there are the remains of two burials, the walls of which are made of granite slabs.
Thus, on Kuzovy one can see monuments of two sanctuaries, which obviously belonged to two Sami clan groups, phratries. On other Kem Islands only single seids are found. Near such a seida you can sometimes find the so-called “Lopar pit”, the site of the ancient dwelling of a Sami family.
The fact that Kuzov in the distant past was a place of sea fishing is confirmed by the fact that on the shores of the interisland straits structures made of boulders have been preserved - shelters, behind which hunters and archers tracked down their prey - seals and bearded seals. These shelters are known among the Sami as “paahus”.
Ancient hunters and fishermen, after a successful fishery, came to the sanctuary, performed ceremonial rituals there, presented sacrifices to the idol deities, hoping for a successful fishery in the future.
A unique cult complex was discovered on the top of Oleshin Island. There are 2 labyrinths and 8 stone dolmens. One of the labyrinths in its own way design features has no analogues in Northern Europe. The very possibility of the appearance of primitive people in the middle of the sea far from the mainland is due to the presence of springs (sources of fresh water) and forests (source of fuel) on the islands.
In addition, the islands and coastal waters were convenient place hunting, fishing, picking berries and mushrooms.
The fauna of the islands is diverse and rich. The coastline is undoubtedly dominated by seagulls. Nests are located openly, as well as in coastal thickets of grass, between stones, bushes, especially on steep cliffs. There are also ptarmigan, auk, guillemot, common eider, etc. The largest auk colony in the entire White Sea nests on the archipelago.
In the sea near Kuzov you can find ringed seals, bearded seals (the largest seal in Arctic waters) and beluga whales. The beluga whale is a marine mammal of the dolphin family, the number of which in the White Sea ranges from 800 to 1000 individuals. These curious and sociable animals can be observed throughout the northern summer.
The Kuzova Archipelago is a specially protected area where valuable natural landscapes, unique flora and fauna and unique archaeological sites ancient Sami. In order to preserve the natural and cultural heritage, a state landscape reserve was established here in 1991, which in 1994 received the status of a wetland of international importance, and in 1993 protected zones of archaeological monuments were allocated.
Kuzova Archipelago on the map:
(I.V. Melnikov “Sanctuaries of Ancient Karelia”, Yu.V. Titov “Labyrinths and Seids”)
The first facts indicating the construction of large sanctuaries with cult stones in ancient times on the territory of Karelia were obtained in the late 60s, when Karelsky's expedition local history museum under the leadership of I.M. Mullo, the most interesting religious complexes were opened on the islands of the White Sea - German Kuzov and Russian Kuzov. These islands are small, one of them is more than a kilometer long, the second - more than two kilometers. The landscape of both islands is similar: they are based on granite rocks, towering tens of meters above the surrounding water area (the taller Russian Kuzov reaches 123 m).
Seids on the Big German Body are huge angular boulders placed on “legs” - small stones. On the upper surface of the seid, as a rule, there are several small stones, and under them, in some cases, multi-colored small stones.
Other seids, smaller in size, have different shapes. Seids in the form of a rough sculpted bust of a person stand out among them. These are boulders resembling the shape and size of the upper part of a human torso, on which lie stones shaped like the head of a person, bird or dog. The cylindrical stones placed in front resemble outstretched arms.
The third, most numerous group are medium-sized and variously shaped boulders, on the elevated part of which one or several cobble-sized stones are installed. An interesting Pomeranian legend about “petrified Germans” is associated with these seids. Tradition tells that once upon a time, “German people” (as the Pomors called the Swedes) wanted to attack the Solovetsky Monastery. They were caught in a storm at sea. The "Germans" took refuge on the northern bodies. From the top of the island's mountain they saw the white stone walls of the Solovetsky Monastery. But frequent storms at sea did not allow them to sail further. One day, when the “German people” were sitting around a fire at a meal, God punished the enemies by turning them into stones. Since then, that island has been called the Big German Body.
The basis of the legend was a historical event of the beginning of the 17th century associated with an attempt by a Swedish detachment to attack the Solovetsky Monastery from the Kuzov side, and the Sami belief about turning a person into stone.
Monuments of the second sanctuary have been preserved on the top of Bald Mountain on Russky Kuzov Island. There are up to two hundred seids, including several unique ones, reminiscent of a “baba” in shape.
We spent our last day in Solovki on the Kuzov Islands. We came to the boat straight with our things. Yes, there were only two backpacks. This excursion lasts seven hours, therefore, upon returning to the island, we had to reload onto the ship and sail again to Kemi.
At eight in the morning the boat “Savvaty” set sail from Solovetsky Island to the Kuzov archipelago. The weather was cloudy, and a cold wind was blowing at sea, as always. That's why he's north.
It takes about two hours to get to Kuzovy by boat. The people mostly scattered to their cabins, but I stayed on deck, because... The cabin is stuffy, the motion is more noticeable. But apparently it doesn’t have the same effect on children.
Captain's cabin. Let's follow the navigator 
An hour and a half later, round islands appeared on the horizon. It was as if oatmeal cookies were floating in the sea.
We were met on the island by the director of the film studio “Pharaoh” from the St. Petersburg University historical film studio. She and the group have been living on the island for several days and are filming some kind of scientific film. They greeted us very cheerfully with exclamations of “Hip-hip hurray!” Our group did not remain in debt and did the same. 
Next we had to climb to the very top of this island. Here we followed the saying: “a smart person won’t go up a mountain, a smart person will go around a mountain,” and we also went around, gradually gaining height. The ascent was carried out at a fast pace, but there were frequent breaks, and you could admire the sea views, as well as listen to exciting stories kodola
about the Sami seids. And the views from the mountain were simply cosmic. Of course, I wanted to wander around the island slowly, or even better, live there in a tent for a few days. 
The archipelago consists of sixteen islands. The largest known ones are the Russian Body and the German Body. We landed on the German Body. The islands are granite at their base. The island has many seids - sacred objects of the ancient Sami in the form of stones. There are many large boulder stones, as well as small ones built in the form of pyramids. But, unfortunately, almost all stone pyramids are remakes, made by tourists or tour guides. But a multi-ton boulder can hardly be moved from its place without the help of special equipment. 
And here these stones are delicately installed on 3 support points, and they were installed hundreds (if not thousands) of years ago…. Miracles, incredible things. No one lives on these islands except tourists. And even then there were only a few of them, but they managed to pile up a mountain of garbage.
Our guide gives a lecture about these places 
This is heather 
When we returned back, a strong wind was blowing and the sea was a little rough. Our boat rocked quite well to the sides, but these camouflaged women bravely withstood the bad weather. 
Get up at 7.00. There is sun outside the window. Great. We have breakfast with sandwiches with raw smoked sausage, thoughtfully brought from Moscow. Yes, and you need to cut sausages and bread with you and grab some tea in a thermos. And there won't be any extra water. At 8.50 we need to be at the Kheta pier; it’s a leisurely 7 minutes walk from our house.
Today we have a 2-hour journey by sea to the Kuzova archipelago. And on the spot - a climb to the rock of the German island of the archipelago with a height of 126 meters. Only 126 meters, someone will say, but for me, an unprepared person, and with a backpack on my shoulders, this climb seemed like conquering Everest.
We set sail at 9am sharp. We sit on the deck and admire the views. We put on all the warm clothes we had. I'm wearing a T-shirt, fleece, membrane jacket, jeans, hat, gloves and a stole on my knees. Not hot. But the beauty around does not allow you to go to a warm cabin.
Here and there the backs of beluga whales flash in the silvery calm water. I really want to see them closer. People are bragging that yesterday on an excursion to Cape Beluzhiy they saw a lot of beluga whales with their calves. Our desire increases even more, and we, of course, will fulfill it, no matter what. But more on that later.
Now there is a lighthouse on our right hand, and ahead are the outlines of a scattering of islands of the Kuzov archipelago. Why am I not an artist? This question came to me constantly during the trip.
We are approaching the island. The sea is calm and smooth like glass. The closer we get, the more beauty opens up to us. People take out cameras, they want to capture every moment.
The 2-hour journey passed unnoticed, and our boat moored to the rocky shore of the German island. One end of the gangplank lies on the bow of the ship, the other on a huge boulder. The adventure begins!
On the shore we are met by the guide Ivan, a young and colorful thin man, deeply in love with his work and passionate about research and discovery. He will accompany us all the time and introduce us to this wonderful place.
What is the Kuzova archipelago? This is a place of rare beauty, a scattering of islands on the blue surface of the sea. This place is amazing panoramic views. There are unique cultural and historical monuments here - seids, labyrinths, stone heaps, places of cult rites of the proto-Sami (that is, those who lived here before the Sami tribes). Unlike the Solovetsky archipelago, the Kuzova archipelago belongs territorially to the Republic of Karelia.
German island: dangerous ascent and descent to white sand beach
Well, finally everyone went ashore along the narrow, shaky gangplank. Ivan explains the rules of conduct and safety, asks if any of us suffer from a fear of heights, and we begin our ascent at a fairly fast and brisk pace. But literally after a couple of minutes you feel a strong lack of air, your breathing becomes labored, and your back under the backpack becomes covered in perspiration. After 10 minutes you dream of a rest stop. And here is the first stop, away with warm clothes! Ivan begins the story.
After a 5-minute break, having caught our breath a little, we continue our journey. We approach a sheer cliff and begin to climb. I’ll say right away: everyone who decided to rise did so. Both pensioners and families with small children. But still it is not so simple and not at all safe. There is no insurance, if you make a mistake, it’s hard to say what the outcome will be. There's an abyss below. You feel like a cow who, by chance, finds herself in the role of a graceful mountain goat.
But there is such beauty around that it takes your breath away. About halfway up the climb we notice an eagle soaring below. The spectacle is unforgettable. We rise to the very top, and then there is a feeling that you are standing on the edge of the earth and you are the ruler of the world. Delight, admiration, a feeling of unreality of what is happening, emotions are seething. I feel absolute happiness and delight. Why am I not an artist?! I'm trying to capture everything on my camera. Ivan says that not one photograph can convey all the beauty of this place. I think I agree.
At the top, in addition to a stunning view, seids, stone heaps, and a mysterious swinging boulder awaited us. How the ancient proto-Sami built this legacy and for what purposes they left behind remains a mystery. The excursion leaves behind more questions than answers.
In clear weather, you can also observe the Solovetsky Archipelago from the top; it seems so distant and unreal, like a mirage in the desert. But we know for sure that it exists.
Ivan's story was interesting and educational. He was happy to point out vantage points for photos and answer all questions. The islands are uninhabited by humans, but hares, foxes, a huge number of bird species, and beluga whales live here. Ivan also said that a bear lives on Russian Island. I don't know if this is true or a joke. I didn’t see it myself.
It's time to make the descent. It is located on the other side of the island and is quite flat. At the end of the descent, a beach with snow-white sand awaited us. Several people decided to swim. The children happily splashed at the edge of the water, and it felt like we were somewhere on the shore warm sea. The sun was burning mercilessly. They say that you need to take everything to Solovki, from a swimsuit to felt boots.
While the people were swimming, we fed our guide sandwiches and tea, because he was too thin. By the way, if you wish, you can stay on the island for a couple of days. Tents and everything you need will be provided to you. They even turn on the generator to recharge gadgets. I found all the information.
Return to Solovki. Souvenirs and monastery shop
The return journey awaits us. We take a last farewell look at the top of the island, the sea around us is still just as calm and smooth. We put on all our warm clothes, and this despite the fact that it was hot on the shore and, it seems, our noses were badly burned today.
Approaching the pier on Solovki, we admire with admiration the opening, one of the best, views of the monastery. I hear my friend whisper: “I feel like we went back in time in a time machine.” I look at the monastery and catch myself thinking the same thought. We are no longer in the 21st century; we have been thrown back several centuries, into the past. He stands so majestic, proud and independent, as if time has no power over him. The monastery is shrouded in mystery and mystery; it beckons and attracts you. It seems that Abbot Philip is about to come out to greet us.
The cries of seagulls drive away the vision. But the sweet feeling of bliss remains. What can I say, this is the most picturesque excursion, one of the most emotional.
On the shore there are cows and a herd of bulls. This living creature calmly walks around the village; we saw them all the time at different points. It looks like this is the herd of a monastery. There are no homeless cows, or is everything possible on Solovki?
Tired, we went into the store. We bought apples, bread and water. Near our house there is a tent with monastic pastries. I often read in reviews that the baked goods are so-so, but, in my opinion, the baked goods are good. If it's a fishmonger, you'll find a decent piece of fish inside. They don’t skimp on the filling for pies with dried apricots and prunes. As for the cost, I have forgotten the prices a little, but I remember exactly that a fishmonger cost 50 rubles, pies with potatoes, cabbage, dried apricots, prunes, jam cost about 25 rubles. In the same tent they sell delicious live monastery kvass. And as souvenirs I brought home honey and marmalade produced by the monastery, the children liked it.
After buying some pies, we went home, drank tea and went on for a walk. Since today we have received our quarterly quota of emotions, we decide to just wander around the souvenir shops.
Souvenirs on Solovki are sold mainly by manufacturers Arkhangelsk region or Karelia. There are a lot of linen products, birch bark, northern “roe” gingerbread, bone products, teas, magnets, etc. We bought a guidebook and a book about nightingales by Oleg Kodola. He will sign this book for me the next day, during the excursion. I bought a cat brooch made from mammoth bone, my daughter loves cats, so I bought it for her, I couldn’t resist. For my son, a keychain made of deer antler. For my husband, a mug painted by the artist.
How to see beluga whales?
During the walk, I call “Independent Guides” and ask them to take us to Cape Beluzhiy tomorrow. In fact, belugas are usually on Solovki until mid-August, but today is already the 21st. According to all forecasts, they should have left by now, but perhaps the warm weather delayed them, or maybe they simply don’t have a calendar. And the poor animals don’t know that they have been swimming in the open sea for 6 days now.
We are eager to see these amazing creatures. But the guides answer that there will be no excursion. The boat on which they go to Beluzhiy at this time will be occupied by another excursion. But they immediately report good news. Tomorrow our program includes “Solovetsky Monasteries. History and legends." And today Oleg Kodola returned. This is his own excursion, and he will lead it.
I read a lot of reviews about this person. Mostly laudable. And I really wanted to find out if he really is as good as rumor says about him. I rejoice and again raise the issue of beluga whales. I want to, I can’t, let’s decide something.
And then the girl offers a solution. Our car excursion will pass through the monasteries, and on the way back we will pass the trail to Cape Beluga. They can drop us off and we only have 6 km to go. through the forest along the path. “The tide is low tomorrow at 4 pm, take off your shoes, walk along the intertidal zone all the way to the cape - and enjoy.” True, you will have to walk back 6 km along the trail to the road and another 6 km along the road to the village, but this is nothing compared to the opportunity to see beluga whales.
The thought of whales was very strong, and a great desire urged us on. Shall we go? Of course, let's go. Moreover, after the excursion we have the whole day free, and we also wanted to walk through the forest to pick mushrooms and eat berries. And this route won’t scare us. And then an idea came to us: what if we asked our hostess’s husband to meet us on the way back, driving his car to the beginning of the trail? And then in total we will walk only 12-13 km. Looking ahead, I will say that Alexey kindly agreed.
Hurray, beluga whales are waiting for us tomorrow! Thank you, girl on the other end mobile communications! You gave us the opportunity to see beluga whales. And do it for free.
It was time for dinner, and we wandered to the Wardroom Cafe. There are different reviews about this establishment. I'll write mine. Let's go. Almost all the seats in the cafe were occupied. The smell was like in a simple canteen. We find a free place. There are crumbs on my chair, I try to sweep them away and I get something oily on my hand. It's good that I didn't sit on that chair. The table is sticky and not very clean. I look at Lena, there is a question in her eyes: “Maybe we should go to yesterday’s establishment?” We get up and leave. So we can’t say anything about the kitchen. Perhaps the food there is very tasty, there are a lot of people sitting there.
Solovetskaya Sloboda is also crowded, but cozy and clean. Today we treat ourselves to the famous Solovetsky herring - these are small fish weighing about 100 g, we take kelp salad, baked zucchini and the right 50 g of berry tincture. Everything is very tasty. The bill for two is around 1200 rubles.
We go home at dusk. The moon is in the sky and the stars sparkle mysteriously. On the left are the mighty walls of the monastery, on the right Holy Lake. Silence. You can hear the water splashing, in the evening otters swim along the shore in the lake... What is this, a dream or reality?
Ininsky “Rock Garden” - amazing, created by nature itself landscape monument, resembling an archipelago of islands in the ocean or mountain peaks, protruding above the sea of clouds. We will visit the caves of Cape Turali and see the “Singing Sands”...
The roads on the island are 99% dirt. You drive and remember the joke “Oh, our roads... I got behind the wheel... and... rode off... ... nothing has changed in 200 years.” We take a photo. Oleg signs his book “History” for me Solovetsky archipelago" We remind him that we will be needed...
There, on the spot, we will have to climb the rock of the German island of the archipelago with a height of 126 meters. Someone might say it’s only 126 meters, but for me, an unprepared person with a backpack on my back, this climb...
For some, one day on the island is enough, while others return here many times. But everyone leaves a piece of their soul on Also, this excursion is known as “when at the end of the excursion they catch and eat mussels”) 24.08 at 12.00 “History of the Solovetsky Archipelago” (cape...
Bikini, Janusz Wisniewski, and Bikini in this context are not panties :), but an island in Pacific Ocean 10/23/2015 13:59:51, Australian Echidna. You are not authorized. To send a message you must log in. I'm reading "The German Boy" now, I >.
We also went to the Semilan Islands, which are among the ten most beautiful archipelagos in the world: And finally, the lotuses that bloomed right in the hotel, this flower is very respected in Thailand. And, as they say at the Oscars, I express my gratitude...
A. Solzhenitsyn "The Gulag Archipelago" A. Solzhenitsyn "Cancer Ward" R.-L. Stevenson "Treasure Island" A. and B. Strugatsky "Roadside Picnic" A. and B. Strugatsky "It's Hard to Be a God" D. Sallinger " The Catcher in the Rye" by E. Tarle "Napoleon" by A. Tvardovsky "Vasily Terkin"...
Dear girls, help me complete this task! I studied German, but today the child doesn’t think at all and is making a fuss. To send a message you must log in. no, Len, we are behind the “Island”, or rather “Children” now:) 02/16/2011 22:08:45, Kitasha.
If there were no conditions visa-free country, I would also suggest Fr. Tenerife, Canary archipelago. The climate is amazing, the tan too, shopping (the entire island is duty-free), entertainment - everything is super.
