The length is 10 km. Net running time 8:00. Pedestrian area: peaks 2B kt. Waste 1b-2A k.t. Snow 1A k.t. Ice 1B k.t. The temperature at night is -20, in the afternoon +20, the wind is medium and strong. Strong wind, snow, thunderstorm since lunchtime. Visibility 30 m. Snow 30 cm at night.
Early in the morning the next day we set out for the ascent. In the morning the weather is fine as usual. The sun is shining, there is almost no wind. We choose the safest route in terms of avalanches and rockfalls. We split into two bundles: the first - Bazhenov, Mokhov and Ponomarev - will go to the peak at 6200 m, and Korolev and Kotelnikov - to the peak at 6100 m.
The beginning of the rise
We climb the steep scree straight from the tent to the ridge of the summit and further along it. Everything is covered with snow. We have to go in bundles and cats. Above from the ridge there are cornices, you have to walk very carefully so as not to collapse them. On the other side of the ridge, an avalanche-prone slope begins - you cannot take too much in that direction, because you can lower an avalanche.
Assault camp
So, maneuvering along this ridge, we get to the top. On it we lay out a tour of stones, in which we hide a waterproof capsule with a note, where we indicate information about ourselves, and that this peak is 6200 m high, we call Przewalski Peak. We are photographed at the summit with the flags of "Forward", "Mens Health" and our command "Pole of Inaccessibility", and descend along the path of the ascent. As soon as we had time to take a picture, a hurricane with snow and clouds flies in from the west again. By touch and with the help of a satellite navigator, we safely go down to the assault camp.
Przewalski Peak
In the same way, we climb the second peak, towering above our camp. Its height turns out to be 6100 m. We think to call it the peak of Roborovsky - this is Przhevalsky's main ally, who traveled with him to Kun-Lun and Tibet and, after his death, organized expeditions to these very remote places of Central Asia. In the evening, the snowfall increases and the maximum amount of snow falls for the entire trip - 30 cm.
Western face of Przewalski peak.
I continue to present the nominees for "Crystal Peak-2011".
This time it is Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko. With a story aboutWestern face of Przewalski peak!
Route information
Przhevalsky Peak (6240 m, Central Tien Shan), Western Wall. Estimated category of complexity 6A.The route belongs to the category of high-altitude and technical. The ascent starts from bergschrund at an altitude of 4760 meters. The difference in height is 1480 meters. The length of the route is 2427 meters. Climbing on July 22 at 03:00. Summit on July 25 at 12:00. Descent to the foot of the mountain on July 27 at 20:00.
On the first day we worked 21.5 pitches (1225.5 meters) on ice up to 60 degrees steep. Second day 2 pitches (114 meters) of ice up to 45 degrees steep and 3.5 pitches (192.5 meters) of rocks M4 F5b-6a. Third day 6 pitches (330 meters) of rocks M5 F5b-6b. Fourth day 3 pitches (165 meters) of F5b M4 rocks and 400 meters along a snow ridge up to 50 degrees.
The first day was difficult physically, because I had to climb the ice for a very long time and quickly.
The pieces were difficult on the second day, where we had to climb with traverses, but there was a reliable insurance. Dangerous on the third day were areas of mixed relief above the AID area, when the hammer beaks were loaded only by 5-7 mm, with unreliable and rare belay. The beginning of the fourth day turned out to be difficult, when immediately from the tent I had to climb out a steep short wall without working, tired after the previous part of the journey. And the logical and simple ascent to the top in the final part of the route became brilliant in beauty. We were relatively lucky with the weather, there were no heavy snowfalls. The temperature during the day was up to + -0, at night it did not drop below -15.
Boris Dedeshko answers questions site
The impressions are the most positive. A very difficult and fast ascent to the limit of your physical and mental strength. But not a single mistake. I remember how everything went, and I think - there is not a single detail, not a single trifle that I would like to change if I knew everything in advance. Beautiful views on Khan and Victory from an unusual angle. Sunsets and sunrises are just a fairy tale! Even the bad weather was beautiful. In the snow, we worked up the ice, being in a continuous stream of snow grains flowing down, uniformly filling the entire surface of the ice couloir from one rocky edge to another - as if trying to swim against the current of a stormy river. And it is impossible to describe in words the feelings experienced at the summit, especially when I took out Boris Solomatov's note, carefully packed in a tin can, which had been lying there for 37 years!
- Were there any sharp moments during the ascent?
First of all, these are traverses. They are so scary! There were several of them on the wall and one on the descent. Whenever possible, he tried to give himself away. Once, having removed the point in the middle, it flew 8 meters back and down. And Den laughs. He says that he launches a snake like that. Descent from the top resembled descent from Cho-Oyu. It was avalanche dangerous up to the pass, then the wall overhang and threw away before reaching the ice.
What are you guided by when choosing a line for climbing? Whose idea of \u200b\u200bthe route was it - yours or Denis's? Or was it a collaboration?
The ascent line should be logical, beautiful and challenging. She should catch the eye and not leave doubts like - why exactly, and not here, for example? By the way, we named our route "Lightning!" The idea of \u200b\u200bpassing this line belongs to Denis. Together we worked out only the details of the ascent.
- Is Denis Urubko an "easy" person and partner? Is it easy to work with on the route?
Of course, he is an easy partner. We are divided by 10 kg of live weight. Therefore, if, God forbid, the first is disrupted, it is much more logical that I was in the place of the insurer.
And as a person, in my opinion, he is heavier. Like all strong extraordinary personalities, Denis has a complex character. Sometimes she gets offended because of nonsense. But we have been walking together for a long time. And we are not just teammates, but also friends. It is often easier for me to nip a conflict in the bud than to swear, although this does not always work out. The ability to compromise is one of the main qualities when working in a team.
On the route it is easy and confident with him. For me, Den's presence is already the key to the success and safety of the ascent. It was only for the arrangement of sites for overnight stays that I had to argue and fight with its minimalism. Den is ready to go to bed on any curved little shelf with sharp protruding stones. At the same time, he will really sleep there. I also need to bring her to mind in order to sleep and rest.
- Do you have any special system of communication on the mountain during work?
During work, we are not verbose. Traditional commands - issue, choose, secure, work, insurance ready, etc. Although it should be noted that after dozens of joint ascents, if Den is in sight, I often already know what command will come now, a couple of seconds before its submission. Denis also. Therefore, we use "repeat", mainly, if the partner is not visible or audible.
What is easy style for you? Do you manage to meet these ideas during your first ascents? Did you climb the Przewalski Peak in the style you wanted?
I can't say more clearly about the light style than Aleksndr Ruchkin did, so I'll just quote him:
“… Progress is moving forward, and the ascents do not stand still. 100 years ago they walked like this, 50 years ago they climbed differently, now they go even further. People break barriers, as they once broke the barriers of the possible, M. Erzog, V. Bonnatti, G. Buhl, R. Messner….
If then they said that two climbers would take 2 small gas cylinders for an eight-thousander, cutting off all unnecessary, with a minimum of equipment, along the wall, along a new, unfamiliar route, they would twirl at the temple. And bad weather, but a lot of things. But when you see that there are two healthy guys in front of you, Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko from CSKA Kazakhstan, you know, these guys can. "
In this ascent, everything was like that, except for CSKA - unfortunately, our army has eliminated mountaineering as a sport.
A very lightweight single layer small tent. One sleeping bag for two and one puff, which they put on to warm up in turns. After the Summit, for dinner we had one energy drink and 2 tea bags. The entire next day of descent was unloading. No supplies for gas, food and equipment. Definitely, this is completely in line with my understanding of light style. And the speed of passage speaks for itself.
For you, climbing in a pair is the ideal alignment in terms of the number of participants? Was this number of participants optimal on this mountain?
In principle, a three is more optimal for a light style. Almost the same amount of weight is divided not by two, but by three. The safety of the entire ascent is increased, as well as the speed of descent by adding another rope. But in this particular case, it was more logical to go in a two-pair: lying overnight would turn into sedentary, and sedentary - into a hanging one. An increase in the descent speed would give an advantage of a couple of hours, which is not essential. But the pleasure and joy of passing this route with maximum comfort were worth the risk and pass it in Deuce!
Denis Urubko. Express interview for the site
- Are there many routes on this wall and this mountain? How popular is it with climbers? And what attracted you?
There are routes to this peak, completed in 1974. This is the line of Popenko's group along the Western Wall. And the path of Solomatov's team from the south-western bulkhead, along the ridge in the Khan-Tengri traverse - the Marble Wall. Since then, the mountain has no longer obeyed people. Although, I know of one more attempt. It was interesting to me that the wall is very difficult and steep. Przewalski Peak is very beautiful. And named after a worthy person.
- Tell us about your partner and what attracts you to climbing with him? What qualities do you value in a partner?
Boris Dedeshko, with whom we have been friends for several years, was gifted by fate with the talent to find a common language with other people. This guy is focused on the positive. And inhumanly hardy :) With Borka I am never afraid to work at the limit of strength and capabilities, because I trust his reliability and skill. It is very important that Boris likes to be “on the edge”, he likes to take risks for the sake of an idea, and not just :) for money or other momentary values. Again, he knows how to furnish everyday life with elegant things with glamorous ease. A music player, delicacies, wet wipes are an indispensable attribute of his personal equipment for the mountain. It used to annoy me a lot. Now I look at it as pampering, fun.
What tactics did you follow during the ascent? Leading alternately? Or have you decided in advance who will climb which section first?
If the question is about the Alpine style, then you can call it that, despite the fact that almost all wall routes by the teams of the USSR "walked" like that. We worked from dawn (and on the first day from the middle of the night) to the stop. Leading alternately - experience allowed. There was no preliminary distribution to the sites - as the soul sang. Borka quickly and reliably climbed through the ice, and I got rocks. Plus, I really wanted to work out the combo first! And Boris indulgently did not interfere.
You are writing about a 60 m rope - why did you choose this rope length? Was the choice random or do you just always go with that length? Is a long rope always justified?
Long rope is always better for descending. 30 meters are more humane than 25 meters. The rope is very lightweight, 9 mm "single". In this case (however, in my opinion, in the rest) it was justified so that the first one could work with less restriction. There were enough safety elements, guys too. Usually the guys in our team work on ropes of 50-60 meters. Longer rope becomes too heavy and it can be difficult to shout to a partner from a distance.
- AID or free climbing? Does the entire route climb freely? How difficult was the passage for you?
There was an AID section of approximately A2 15 meters long at an altitude of approximately 5700 meters. We climbed it on the third day of the ascent. There were cold overhangs with a good crack through them, with a slight deviation to the left. The passage was normal, the main thing was not to leave extra friends for insurance, but to work for them along the cracks.
Compare this climb with others you've accomplished this season and earlier? On what grounds can it be classified as one of the strongest achievements of this year?
We can say that the line to Przewalski Peak has become a strong and beautiful independent route. I would compare it to the climb to Kali Himal in the Himalayas along the north face in 2004. But unlike the route to the Himalayan mountain, this route was passed without setting up intermediate camps and fixing ropes. It was very important for me that the wall is located in Kazakhstan - this is “our” mountain, and there are other interesting objects around. That is, there are prospects. After passing the wall of Eight climbers peak in 2008, I hoped that this example would encourage other athletes to search, discover ... However, after three years I realized that I wanted to go to the Inylchek glacier again, that the line to Przewalski peak attracts me. Despite the fact that the area was mastered long ago, the last ascent to this peak took place in 1974, there were only two ascents, as I have already said. Our route turned out to be easier than Popenkovsky ... but it was done in a different style. There were two of us, not eight, we climbed three and a half days, not eight, the line turned out to be logical, elegant in its own way.
Attributed to best climbing it is possible because it is wall with complex rocky (including overhanging) sections. The line is beautiful, passed with a friend Boris in a beautiful style. No perennial pumps. In a long-developed area, where an interesting discovery was made, where there was a place for creativity.
Denis Urubko sent a story about this ascent. It seems to me that it would be right for them to supplement the publication!
After Boris Dedeshko and I crossed the Eleven Pass (from Bayankol on foot with all the equipment to the Base Camp on North Inylchek), primary acclimatization was obtained.
After resting, Boris and I moved under the wall of Przewalski Peak. This peak was climbed twice in 1974, but since then no one has climbed it. The way to the circus of the glacier turned out to be quite long. Fortunately, we didn’t have to rely too much on snowshoes, but in the icefall we wandered around the gullies. The path between the cracks was found easy, and after 15 hours we got to the flat part of the glacier. The wall soared above us for 1480 meters of drop. The sunset kept us warm for a long time - the sun was beating on the tent, so that it was warm and cozy. But this bulk in the height, where he had to climb, threatened with cold and uncertainty.
On July 22 at 03:00 am we started our route.
I worked 7 pitches on the ice couloir, then Boris came forward. The pitches were long because we had 60 meters of rope. Borya worked powerfully and quickly. Sometimes I made only one gap on the rope - I was so confident on the slope. And I understood that this was enough, because I completely trusted. The same as he told me. The sun illuminated us in the middle of the couloir, but stones did not fall from the wall, because the weather had been normal for several days before. By the end of the day, we had worked 21½ pitches, and on a rocky ridge at the base of the lower "Triangle" we settled in a tent on a small ledge for the night. Boris drove me into the warm interior of the tent, and he settled down on the edge.
It was foggy in the morning, but we started moving briskly - two more pitches on the ice. And then we went to the rocks. They often had to work with traverses to the right. Because the idea was to go along the edge of this very bottom "Triangle". The rock was fragile, badly destroyed, with shallow cracks. But on the other hand it was comparatively warm, sometimes it was possible to climb with bare hands. The difficulty of the rocks is 5b-6a according to the French system. The mixed was not difficult - M4. But the final pitch took us straight up, and we ran into overhangs. We climbed 5½ pitches in a day.
Here we managed to find a small shelf on which they could only sit, without a chance to stretch the tent. The night was supposed to be warm, and we nestled in the open air, legs dangling in a sleeping bag into the abyss.
We met the morning in a rather “major” way. The choice was - either to climb on good for belaying, but difficult overhanging and vertical blocks, or to try to traverse to the right on non-steep peeling slabs on the verge of falling off without a good belay. We chose the first option - straight from the shelf. Climbing 15 meters is free. Then, under the cornices, I switched to AID, fortunately there was a good broken crack that led far up. Friend after friend ... and another 15 meters of the wall was again brought to the relief, passable in these conditions by free climbing. This pitch, as it turned out later, was the key of the route. Difficulty of the section - A2, F6b, M5.
Boris, in general, is the first to navigate the routes very reliably and confidently. Therefore, here, when he belayed, it was done so competently that sometimes I forgot that I was working on a rope. It seemed that I was not bound by the bonds of reality.
A flat horizontal traverse of 60 m led from the station to the right ... at the end I even had to go down a little. And we ended up on the ice cap of a small bastion. Then they again took to the right. There were small areas of ice, but mostly there was an uncomplicated M4 mix. The difficulty arose when organizing safety points, because the past centuries have smoothed the surface, splitting it, however, into small plates.
Already in the evening, exhausted, we saw a good place for spending the night - a snow comb protruding from the general relief of the wall. And in the dark they set up a tent on it. My friend, seeing that I was very tired, continued to selflessly expand the site until the last moment. Prepared ice for the kitchen. And then we easily heated up a lot of water to drink for a crazy day. For which we worked 6 pitches.
The weather continued to pamper us with its good mood. We met dawn on our feet, and through three M4 pitches we got to the ridge of the mountain. It so happened that we passed the wall completely in accordance with the plan - along the left side of the lower "Triangle".
Then everything was simple. We left our backpacks under a small rock, and, having contacted, moved under the bright sun along the white plane upwards. After 400 meters of the path, alternately trailing shallow, ankle-deep, snow on July 25 at 12:00 reached the highest point of Przewalski Peak. Cloudiness fell from the west, but not dangerous. Boris and I spent about half an hour on the summit, enjoying the views, feeling safe and winning, taking pictures.
We descended to the West, to the saddle to the Tent. There in the evening on a flat plateau we set up a tent, and fell asleep without safety systems. And in the morning we began to descend along the rocky wall to the north. It would be possible to go down the ice couloir, but from above I did not find the correct entrance to it. So it turned out 14 rappels of 30 meters (half rope) on the rocks, and then 15 descents on the ice of the lower part. Borya masterfully organized self-twisting, and I hammered my hands, wrapping ice screws in rock chips in the ice. And in the evening, under a snowfall, we found ourselves below the bergschrund. Visibility was extremely limited, however, Boris managed to find our tracks leading to the drop. And that was good, because we completely ran out of food and gas. But now there are a lot of them. And already by the light of the lanterns, we made ourselves a festive feast of crackers, smoked fish and cheese.
In the morning, putting on our favorite snowshoes, we briskly slipped through the icefall, and along the Northern Inylchek glacier we reached Base camp... Everyone there - from the head of Uncle Hudaibergen to the waitress Regina - fed us, watered us and congratulated us.
Denis Urubko's website
 The first day |
I worked 7 pitches on the ice couloir, then Boris came forward. The pitches were long because we had 60 meters of rope. Borya worked powerfully and quickly. Sometimes I made only one gap on the rope - I was so confident on the slope. And I understood that this was enough, because I completely trusted. The same as he did to me. The sun illuminated us in the middle of the couloir, but stones did not fall from the wall, because the weather had been normal for several days before. By the end of the day we had worked 21½ pitches, and on a rocky ridge at the base of the lower "Triangle" we settled in a tent on a small ledge for the night. Boris drove me into the warm interior of the tent, and he himself settled down on the edge.
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
Ak - Sai Travel Company is a fully licensed travel company located in the capital of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek. The company was founded in 1998.
In 2017, Ak-Sai Travel was awarded the title of "Best Travel Company".
Ak Sai Travel company organizes group and individual tours, both in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.
Transport is a very important attribute of every tour. Ak Sai Travel Company offers its own vehicle fleet for tours in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Our advantage is our extensive experience in conducting various types of tours, as well as a proven base of experienced drivers. This allows us to provide the best cars for our tourists.
We offer:
- Tourist buses 35-50 seats;
- Minibuses "Mercedes Sprinter" 8-18 seats;
- SUVs - Toyota Sequoia (4x4), 4WD
- Executive cars
Ak Sai Travel annually puts its own yurt and tent camps in the most picturesque places in Kyrgyzstan:
- Base camp Achik Tash (under Lenin Peak 7134 m.)
- Base camp South Inylchek (under the peaks Khan Tengri 7010 m. And Pobeda 7439 m.)
- Karkara base camp (Karkara gorge. Helicopter tours are possible here)
- Base camp in the Karavshin gorge
Our partners are leading travel companies from all over the world. Our services are used by diplomatic missions, state and international companies, large corporations and prominent businessmen. Ak-Sai Travel is an active participant in annual international exhibitions and conferences, which help to exchange experience and attract new partners for cooperation.
Ak Sai Travel takes an active part in the development active tourism, as well as protection of the nature of Kyrgyzstan. Over the past few years, we have taken part in several environmental campaigns and launched 2 projects aimed at development active rest, as well as helping children from orphanages.
