MMP-1966 - 2008 Heroic Fisherman. (Part 1).
I was practically connected with the Rybachy Peninsula most of of my life. I first came to Rybachy in July 1966 on the steamship Ilya Repin, when I arrived in Murmansk as a cadet of LMU for a year of practice. Later, I went to the Rybachy Peninsula already in navigator and captain positions on MMP passenger ships: Ilya Repin, Petrodvorets, Hakob Akopyan, Vologda, Klavdiya Elanskaya, Kanin and mx "Polaris". My last visit to Rybachy was on mv "Polaris" in the summer of 2007, when Rybachy was being mastered by specialists from the Murmansk Shipping Company, who were looking for oil on the peninsula. I then told Kulikov N.V. that he would not produce oil in these places. And so it happened...
I have the best memories of this sacred land for all Murmansk residents. Many of my years were devoted to the peninsula, when the ships of the shipping company were on the regular passenger line Murmansk - Ozerko, providing residents living throughout the peninsula with everything they needed. Communication with the mainland was carried out in those days mainly through passenger ships MMP. Another year I visited Ozerko up to a hundred times a year, went around and traveled the peninsula far and wide. I have special and best memories for the period 1988-2003, when Colonel Viktor Viktorovich Kudelya, my good friend and last commander the entire peninsula. Despite the fact that a lot has been written about the Rybachy Peninsula in the literature, and especially about its heroic pages during the Great Patriotic War, I want to pay my attention to my beloved land in terms of my memories. I also want to make a short historical digression into the past of the Rybachy Peninsula.
The Rybachy Peninsula (Sami Giehkirnjrga, Finnish Kalastajasaarento, Norwegian Fiskerhalvya) is a peninsula in the north of the Kola Peninsula. Administratively, Rybachy is part of the Pechenga district of the Murmansk region. It is washed by the Barents Sea and Motovsky Bay. It is a plateau, abruptly breaking off to the sea. The plateau is composed of shales, sandstones and limestones. Altitude up to 300 m. Tundra vegetation. Off the coast of the peninsula, the sea is due to the warm North Cape Current all year round does not freeze. Coastal waters are rich in fish (herring, cod, capelin, etc.). To the south of the peninsula is the Sredny Peninsula. From the north, a relatively large bay, the Zubov Bay, protrudes into the peninsula for 3.5 kilometers.
From ancient times in the coastal waters of the Rybachy Pomors fished. In the 17th century there were 16 fishing camps with 109 fishing huts. Since the 16th century, the name Rybachy Peninsula has already been mentioned. The Dutch traveler Guyen van Linschoten (English), a member of the expedition of 1594, mentions that he saw "the land of Kegot, called the Fisherman's Peninsula." Stephen Barrow (English) On June 23, 1576, after traveling to the northern shores of Russia, he claims during interrogation that he was in the village of Kigor, and in his diaries for 1555 he mentions Cape Kegor (now German). At this place there was a lively bargaining, through which the Russian state traded with Europe. In 1826, when drawing the border between the Russian Empire and Norway, the peninsula was assigned to Russia, despite the fact that Norwegian settlers lived on the peninsula. At the beginning of the 20th century, there were 9 colonies of Norwegians and Finns on the peninsula, in which 500 people lived. After Finland gained independence, the western part of the peninsula was ceded to the Finns, which was returned to the Soviet Union after the Soviet-Finnish war.
During the Great Patriotic War, fierce battles between Soviet and German troops took place on the peninsula and coastal waters. In Murmansk, a street was named after the soldiers who defended the strategic peninsula. After the end of the war, the peninsula was heavily militarized, as it was located in close proximity to the NATO member country Norway. Currently, most of the military garrisons here are completely closed. More recently, the territory of the Rybachy Peninsula was finally open to the public. And immediately dozens of jeeps, all-terrain vehicles and hundreds of northern extreme lovers poured here ...
The Rybachy Peninsula is truly the end of the earth. Here is the most north point European part of Russia. You feel it especially sharply, standing on a rocky cliff, at the edge of the ocean, squinting from the strong north wind. Behind the back are the "space balls" of the radar station and the pointing finger of the lighthouse, and in front, as far as the eye can see, is the expanse of water. Naturally, Rybachy is a closed area. But here, it was possible to get absolutely legally, having requested the appropriate permission from the border guards in advance. The only ones who are still closed here are foreigners. Previously, this small bare piece of land, surrounded on all sides by water, was literally stuffed with military units. Norway, a NATO member, is within easy reach, and all waterways to our northern ports pass by. Now everything has changed.
The troops were withdrawn, the remaining small units look frightening: gloomy shabby barracks, the remains of equipment scattered everywhere, dirty conscripts looking like a wolf from under their brows. I really don't want to look at all this.
From Murmansk to Rybachy, if you go by car, it's only a few hours' journey. But this path is extremely interesting. The landscape changes literally every ten kilometers. Dense still forests give way to light forests, they are replaced by "northern dwarfs", and further north - and they disappear from view. Thin shrubs can only be found in the lowlands between the rocks, and everywhere dominated by mosses, lichens and some strangely established grasses that still manage to bloom here. This is the real tundra. Only the tundra is not low and swampy, but rocky. Small mountain ranges go through the entire peninsula, forming a fantastic unique relief. In the valleys, if you can call them that, there are a great many transparent lakes, swamps, streams and streams. All this, following the usual cliche, I would like to call a cosmic landscape, but in fact, of course, the landscape is the most earthly, it is simply difficult to find the appropriate epithets to describe it. It is much easier to talk about the tropics, where there is a riot of colors and a constant celebration of life. And here there seems to be nothing but wind, rocks, stones, water and moss, but all this fascinates so that sometimes you want to look at this picture without stopping for hours.
But back in the thirties it was crowded here, Russians, Finns, Sami lived here, there was even a whole Norwegian village with the "bird" name Tsyp-Navolok. Here is what is written about the former population of Rybachy in the Guide to the North of Russia (St. Petersburg, 1898, p. 78):
- On the east coast Fishing Peninsula near Tsip Navolok there is Korabelnaya Bay, which for a long time was enlivened by the activity of the trading post founded here by the St. Petersburg merchant Pallizen, which then passed to the merchant Zebek and from him to the Rybak society. The ship trading post left a noticeable trace of its activity in our Murmansk and White Sea fisheries by using the American purse seine to catch herring and capelin and introducing hellebore to save bait. I borrowed this quote from the book of my friend, a great connoisseur of the Kola land, the Murmansk writer Mikhail. Oreshets "Orphaned Shores", published online on his own website. The photograph posted there shows Mikhail Oreshet with a beard and a megaphone in his hands, along with an unnamed border guard, as well as our former enemy, and now a German friend, Gerhard Dagh, and the leader of the North Sea schoolchildren, Galina Penkova. Misha is a local historian and historian who devoted his life to our northern region.
Walking on the tundra is a pleasure - everything is visible for many kilometers ahead and at almost every step you meet something unusual and different, either an exotic beast, or an unexploded mine that has lain from the war. Here, literally, a motley partridge hen jumps out from under your feet and, diligently pretending that everything is not all right with her health, begins to take you away from her brood. Usually, pretending to believe, I follow her, keeping a distance, not moving away, but not letting her close either. Then I turn around and see how she, having made sure that I am at a safe distance for her family, squeaking loudly, hurries back to the children with both her paws.
Fish here, too, of course, is found - where would the name come from then - the Fishing Peninsula? And this fish is truly royal: brown trout, trout, delicacy salmon.
Throughout Rybachye there are hundreds of streams, rivers and lakes with this beautiful fish. I constantly fished on Rybachy in all seasons and with great success.
And once, in the middle of the 19th century, on Rybachy and on the whales they “swung” not without success. The last time, in my memory, a real whale threw itself onto a sandbank near Zubovka in 1993. I saw this whale east of the island Kildin, when he went to Gremikha on the Kanin, and even approached him at a very close distance in order to film him, popping up and fantasizing, on a video camera.
In the 80s and 90s, you didn’t have to go far for fish. I caught it in the Korabelny stream, and in Poltyn, and in Ein with their crystal and cold waters. The fish could be seen directly from the shore. If tropical islands are called a coconut or banana-lemon paradise, then Rybachy is undoubtedly a cloudberry-blueberry-mushroom paradise. To collect mushrooms for roast or berries for jam, we did not need to go further than 200-250 meters from the pier where the ship was moored - there were a great many mushrooms and berries. And if Viktor Viktorovich gave me a car, then there were so many mushrooms that you simply couldn’t carry them away on yourself. They paid attention to russula only at the very beginning of the mushroom season, until the boletus boletus went, but they also ceased to be interested when they crawled out into the light of day and immediately in such quantity that “at least their oblique mow”, strong red-headed boletus.
I knew places where white mushrooms grew in abundance, but, of course, I tried not to give them out to anyone. And who knows northern ginseng? Along the valleys of streams, among stones, sometimes right on sheer cliffs, our northern “ginseng” grows - pink radiola, or, in a simple way, “golden root”. I had to meet him more than once - it was a quarter of an hour's leisurely walk from the pier to my nearest plantations. At the golden root, rhizomes and roots harvested in the second half of July-first half of August are used for medicinal purposes only from large specimens with at least 2 stems. The rhizomes and roots of the plant contain tyrosol, radioloside glycoside, essential oils, tannins, anthraglycosides, malic, gallic, citric, succinic, oxalic acids, lactones, sterols, flavonols (hyperazid, quercetin, isoquercetin, kaempferol), sugars (mainly glucose and sucrose), lipids.
Pharmacological studies have established that the extract from rhizomes at 40% alcohol not only has a stimulating and adaptogenic effect, similar to ginseng and eleutherococcus preparations, but also increases blood pressure.
Autumn on Rybachy comes quickly, hastily, not fussily, but in a businesslike way. The tundra becomes somehow dark and inhospitable, as it was in summer, and I didn’t have time to look back, and the sun is almost gone. Darkness comes quickly. It is clear that there will be no return: it is said, and that's it, that's serious. She will not, as in St. Petersburg, rush back and forth, but will do her autumn work and immediately hand over the work to winter. Gloomy and unfriendly, it reminds of seriousness with its winds, bringing down its power on Rybachy. In 1968, I saw when a hurricane demolished and destroyed half of the buildings along the coast of Ozerko Bay.
All seasons in the North are fairly well defined. Do not rush and do not shy away from one to another. Winter immediately grabs a stranglehold and will not let go until the end. Here winter does not rush anywhere. Claim and get it right away. Severe frosts, dense and some kind of hard blizzards immediately show who is the boss here. If not in the spirit, he can spin his devilish dance so that you involuntarily start to respect him.
The forest on Rybachy and Sredny - alder and birch - grows only along the valleys of streams, where the winds are not so strong, but even here they make the trees bend intricately. In August, the slopes are covered with lilac-purple willow-tea. Autumn begins in September, the tundra turns burgundy red, lingonberries ripen, replacing blueberries and blueberries, cloudberries leave even earlier, in mid-August. In October, the lingonberries will go under the snow, so that the partridges have something to profit from in the spring - the almighty Nature has everything thought out in this regard.
Ein Bay is a kind of oasis on Rybachy. In contrast to the central and northern regions of the peninsula, even lush grass is found here, where cattle were even grazed before. Guba is surrounded by high hills with steep cliffs, which are worth standing here overnight. During the war, the bay was the main source of supply for the garrison on Rybachy - for this, a pier was built, the remains of which are still visible. Another attraction of the bay is the sunken research vessel Perseus. A two-masted sail-steam schooner with ice lines was built in Onega in 1918 as a hunting ship, but in 1922 in Arkhangelsk the unfinished ship was modernized and became a research ship. For its intended purpose, the vessel operated in the seas of the Arctic Ocean from 1923 to 1941. It was a real floating marine scientific institute. I even managed to find some technical data of the ship: displacement - 550 tons, length - 41.5 meters, width - 8 meters, draft - 3.2 meters. There were 7 laboratories on this ship, including 1 meteorological one. It was on this ship that echo sounders were first used to detect schools of fish (1939)! From the beginning of the war (since 1941), the Perseus was handed over to the military, and in the same year it was sunk by German aircraft. So the ship and the scientific laboratory became the basis for the pier mentioned above. At low tide, his remains are still visible ...
"Big Lake" - ... arose as a colony in 1860 on the southwestern coast of Rybachy ... In the 1920s it was the center of the Novoozerkovskaya volost. The population in 1926 was 247 people, in 1938 - 127 people. In 1930, the collective farm “Border Fisherman” was organized ... In 1960, the village of Ozerko was marked by a row of prefabricated panel houses, popularly called “Finnish” ... Over the years of existence, anti-aircraft missile systems located on Sredny and Rybachy have become morally and tactically outdated. In the late eighties - early nineties, they began to reduce them ... In the fall of 1994, the last group of soldiers and officers left the village of Ozerko. There came a period of pogrom of everything that had been created with such difficulty for years. At this time, the worst features of our national character appeared - to take everything that is badly lying, to beat what cannot be carried away.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union, we inherited a dubious legacy: missile silos scattered here and there, barracks, submarine bases. The construction of these sensitive facilities cost the state many billions, and now they are being destroyed under the prickly winds of the Arctic. It hurts that incredibly complex, expensive mechanisms that could still be restored were completely abandoned, as if it were a barn no one needed. But I myself took part in the Soviet era in the construction of many military facilities on Rybachy, transporting thousands of tons of building materials on mv "Hakop Hakobyan", as well as on other cargo-passenger ships of the shipping company. Therefore, it was doubly painful for me to look at what had become of the peninsula after 1995.
I want to walk along Rybachy in 2007, when I was there for the last time, having traveled more than a hundred kilometers on an ATV, through my native places.
From the buildings abandoned by the inhabitants of the Sredny and Rybachy peninsulas, one can study the history of the rise and fall of the Soviet Union, the history of unfulfilled hopes and unfulfilled plans. An abandoned village is like a lonely sick person: it seems to live, but there is no joy. We have always been extravagant. It is especially acute here, on the Rybachy and Sredny peninsulas, on our strategic maritime border. This is a frozen museum of the Soviet era. Abandoned garrisons and defensive fortifications are like scars on the body of the tundra. Alien. There are many of them, but each of them is lonely in his own way and each has his own story of escape.
Garrisons in which, at first glance, there is everything necessary for life - high-rise buildings, clubs, gyms, but there is not a single living soul. Ghost villages, lost on the map, orphaned overnight, which are only occasionally visited by lone travelers. Yes, even monuments - with the drooping head of the heroes-fishermen. They are the shadows of the past, militant, saturated with glory, which has become useless to anyone. Nothing to say. Now the village looks like an abandoned military field. And it will collapse and deteriorate as long as there is at least one more gram of metal that can be handed over, or one more brick that you can take with you. The plundering process is put on a grand scale ... But, even if there were no plunderers, I do not believe that life could ever return to these houses. Our reality is such that even a good house that loses one owner does not always find a new one. This applies in particular to structures owned by the armed forces.
Rybachy is very favorably located, alas, not only in terms of fishing: the peninsula overlooking Norway is an excellent springboard for our troops. It is unlikely that in the near future he or at least part of him will become civilian.
Villages on the Rybachy Peninsula, almost all destroyed. Several metalworkers now live in Bolshoy Ozerko, who collect the remains of metal. It's beautiful and creepy, like a graveyard.
Here I started my last journey along Rybachy in the summer of 2007 on a quad bike, reaching the camp of geologists and back. Practically, starting from Big Ozerko, there is a road built during the Second World War, and it is radically different from all other "roads" on the peninsula. Compared to them, this is a full-fledged dirt highway; it is through it that cars get to the peninsula (well, of course, only those that could pass through the pass)!
The village of Zemlyanoye (Pummanki), located in the very center of Sredny, was generally surrounded by something that remotely resembled a real forest. Somewhere I heard that Zemlyanoye is still a residential village ... but as soon as I entered the outskirts, there was no doubt left: there had been no one there for a long time. Abandoned houses, equipment left right in the middle of the road ... If I didn’t know the history of these places, I would assume that a war broke out here 15-20 years ago and the inhabitants fled, leaving everything they had. But the reality is sadder - such a well-located village with capital buildings was simply abandoned due to the redeployment of military units. But here I have been so many times with my friends of the border guards. Here we bathed in a wonderful sauna, fished, hunted, picked mushrooms and berries. There was an excellent shooting range here, where I fired at almost all types of weapons, from TT to machine guns and grenade launchers. On the Vykat stream, I set up nets and caught salmon. Naturally, now the bridge over Vykat has been destroyed, but nearby the cars have already “trampled” a quite acceptable ford and I was able to drive further ...
A few hours later, I reached the former camp of geologists, turned back to Sredny to return to Ozerko again.
But for now, from Cape Zemlyanoy, I am going along the western coast along a long 30-meter cliff, made of the thinnest shale plates, through which many small springs make their way. The famous "Two Brothers". Some kind of mysticism is blowing here - it is not without reason that the Sami have since ancient times considered Mount Pummanki to be the habitat of sorcerers (noids). According to legend, two of them - the brothers Noid-Ukko and Noid-Akka - were punished for their atrocities and turned into these stone statues. The most beautiful places! Declaring the Rybachy Peninsula a national park with its mandatory transfer from the Department of the Ministry of Defense, as a mismanaged and inept owner, to the relevant structures involved in the conservation of natural and other heritage, could contribute to the development of tourism on the coast of the Barents Sea, which in turn would have a positive effect on preservation and military heritage sites. Tourists still visit these places with pleasure, but only in a wild way.
Traces of the presence of hydrocarbons, characteristic of gas and oil fields, were discovered on Sredny several decades ago. In the 70s, the USSR Ministry of Geology recommended that drilling be started there, but even sufficient geophysical studies were not carried out on the peninsula.
In 1994, with the support of several oil firms, the regional administration registered the Severshelf company, which carried out seismic surveys on Rybachy. They gave hopeful results for the oilmen. Apparently, the oil field stretches from the peninsula into the sea - to the Rybachinskoye oil field. According to experts, in principle, subject to all the rules, drilling and oil production on land is much safer than offshore drilling.
In 2002, one of the co-owners of the Murmansk shipping company Nikolai Kulikov, former general director of Lukoil-Arctic-Tanker, founded a new company, Murmanskneftegaz, which received licenses to operate on the peninsula a year later. The company was even registered and located in a building owned by the shipping company. Having issued only a license (MUR series number 11451 NP) in March 2003 to start operations and organize work on the profile, in the fall of the same year, Murmanskneftegaz began prospecting on the Sredny Peninsula, actually on the isthmus between Sredny and Rybachy. Equipment began to be imported to the peninsula - a disassembled drilling rig, tractors and other equipment. At the same time, the project for the work and the necessary documents determined by the terms of the license for geological exploration drilling were not developed. The administration of the Pechenga district of the Murmansk region was not informed about the timing of the start of work, which did not prevent the death of part of the tundra and the conflict situation in connection with this. The opinions of local reindeer herders were not taken into account either.
And all this - despite the fact that, for example, the following clause was included in the terms of the license: “3.1.4. Start field geophysical work and well construction only after the development of ... projects of the relevant types of work. Organize and conduct a procedure for assessing the impact of the planned activities on environment(EIA). Include EIA materials in the composition of the object of state environmental expertise. “Apparently, the leaders of the limited liability company did not even look at the document,” comments Sergei Zhavoronkin, head of the environmental organization Bellona-Murmansk.
As it turned out, since 1991 the land on which Murmanskneftegaz began to develop vigorous activity has been leased from the Rangifer reindeer herding farm, which has more than 500 deer. Having learned about the expansion of the oil workers, the reindeer herders turned to the regional land committee. “The reindeer herders could not have done otherwise, since they, the tenants, are primarily responsible for the outrages on the territory they rent,” says Sergey Zhavoronkin. In December 2003, the land committee of the Murmansk region found that the oilmen had seized land plot illegally, and brought "Murmanskneftegaz" to a fine with the obligation to eliminate the discovered deficiencies within three months. In addition, as established by the inspectors of the regional administration natural resources, as a result of the activities of Murmanskneftegaz on the peninsula, about 4 hectares of soil cover with reindeer moss, which is the main food of reindeer, were destroyed. The Department of Natural Resources issued an order to suspend the preparatory work, and provide the department with all the necessary documents.
However, work, as I know, is being carried out on the Middle, to this day. There are no guns and tanks against the new capitalists, and those that are have not fired for a long time.
I still have a map of the places where, over the many years of visiting Rybachy, I have passed and examined almost every square, every stream, every swamp with berries and every lake with fish. All these are native places. All this is the heroic Rybachy. All this is our common memory - for those who want to remember and to whom it is all dear. I hope that Rybachy will someday be reborn. But that will be later.
And where is it happy today? Maybe this "happy today" was seen by the last commander of Rybachy - Kudel Viktor Viktorovich? Or thousands of other Fishermen? Why did millions of our fathers and grandfathers die in 1941-1945? To be winners or, in the end, defeated? There is no clear answer to these questions. But still! Glory to the heroes of the Rybachy Peninsula! And eternal memory to them!
I returned to Ozerko, having traveled more than a hundred kilometers with bitterness in my soul ...
In the evening we were already there.
The Rybachy and Sredny peninsulas have been a specially protected military area for decades. Then probably no one even dreamed of traveling along them. They knew that there, in the northernmost mainland of Russia, near the shores of the Arctic Ocean, there are peninsulas on which the military, missilemen and border guards are stationed, who guard against European enemies.
The first desire that immediately arose when setting up the tent was to save these flowers and grass. Do not trample them with your feet and even more so with wheels.
They already got to be born in these most severe climatic conditions.
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In the 90s, Gorbachev made concessions to the civilized worlds and withdrew the military from the peninsula. Since then, the Russians have another huge area for travel, recreation and fishing.
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The military left then left, but the territories were not transferred with status. The Rybachy and Sredny peninsulas hung in the air without a definite status of ownership. Military settlements were abandoned. Valuable things were stolen by marauders, and time and northern winds picked up this baton.
Wherever you look, there are remnants of military equipment, garbage from the military and from new travelers. From these objects only rushing sadness and disappointment. I didn't want to take pictures.
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Along the entire shores of the Rybachy Bay, a log from some kind of structure was thrown out by a wave.
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When we stopped in Murmansk to buy tackle for sea fishing and picked up food along the way, I noticed that the city had not yet had time to repair the city after the German bombing.
The road from Murmansk to the turning point to the peninsulas took a couple of hours.
From the paved road leading to Norway after the checkpoint, after a few hundred meters, as they turned right, they immediately ended up in the USSR of 1943.
Although I was warned, I was still shocked by such hellish roads. It turns out that "German bombers targeted the roads."
100 km to the destination, we passed in 10 hours. Although our car is a real SUV, it still hit the bottom hundreds of times.
Given that such hellish roads were not only on our way, but in all directions. As in that fairy tale: if you go there, you will break the wheels, here go - car leave.
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Only real extreme people travel along these so-called roads, where there is danger at every meter.
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They crossed rivers, small surviving bridges, fords, puddles and mud alternated. Therefore, the peninsulas are held in high esteem among travelers, jeepers, fishermen, squares, snowmobiles.
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Here and there broken cars on the road...
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Nature, with its, at first glance, scarcity, did not allow looking away from itself. It is a pity that it was not possible to take pictures especially, we stopped a couple of times. It wasn't before.
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In a couple of places on our way there were some stencils that did not deserve respect, that this territory seemed to be natural Park. So, somewhere there are offices, employees who receive a salary.
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What are they doing, maybe they built a gazebo, and that is unlikely.
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At another monument.
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Thousands of soldiers died on the peninsulas. Many monuments. Some of them are in good condition.
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Abandoned monuments are many in the peninsulas, like this one.
On closer inspection, you can see a dozen tombstones overgrown with grass.
And in the cities, on the other hand, we pompously celebrate Victory Day and organize an immortal regiment.
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It's really not surprising that the monuments are abandoned. If near the city of the hero of Murmansk, the monuments are being destroyed and there is no one to repair them, then one should not expect a better attitude towards them in the distance.
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There is no one to get permission to fish. So catch at least how much, even harvest tons of fish, crabs, shrimp.
Perhaps we were in the status of a poacher once fishing without a license.
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The fish in the sea was sea-re ..))
Different fish at a depth seemed to be waiting for a lure to be immediately attacked and to be hooked.
There were also strangers, like this, seemingly terrible, fish.
Just in case, we let her go back to the sea. Then they learned that the delicacy is rare.
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Caught here are such freaks from the depths of the sea
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The fish was caught so well that from the very first day the question arose "what to do with it?"
The most cunning fishermen from the team on the very first day hurriedly went to sea and fished with their hearts as many as two boxes of different fish. So on the second, third day fishing was taboo. Don't throw it away?
Then they caught as much as they could eat. And they caught fish selectively, which they did not eat yesterday.
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Fried flounder fish oh what a yummy!
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Cooked food on gas. By the way, there are no trees, as such, on Rybachy at all. Some small artisanal ones, of which there is no way to make a full-fledged fire.
Semeshkin Anatoly Konstantinovich at the workplace.
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Keith liked our presence on the shore and every day he approached us a hundred meters and defiantly blew the boiling water away from himself through the nozzles. To give out his body was perforated and water seeped through.
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Wanted to catch a whale for dinner. They consulted and consulted and decided not to.
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Shashlik of some large fish and Armenian vodka went well together.
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A group of fishermen from Arkhangelsk specialized in crabs in two cars and trailers. They had conditions for keeping fish. Therefore, they boldly caught both fish and crabs.
Moreover, they knew where and how to set up nets and traps.
I even helped them for a minute to let the crab out of the net. But I ate as much as I could. Before that, I only knew the taste of crab from those sticks that they sell in stores. Delicious unbelievable.
It turns out that there are too many crabs in these parts. Once brought from Kamchatka to breed, divorced so much that either through the bay, or through the isthmus, they crossed into the waters of Norway.
The paradox is that the Norwegians industrially catch crabs and sell them wholesale, including to Russia.
And in Russia, mafiosi are responsible officials, they don’t even allow amateur fishing. Although unofficially, but quite legally, crabs are sold in Murmansk on every corner, wholesale and retail, and in any form.
Our team did not know how and did not catch crabs. But, they ate when the Arkhangelsk peasants treated us, and they always treated us.
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The crab, which I lowered to the ground, turned out to be warlike and attacked me and wanted to eat me. But I managed to get away..
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It turns out that in order for crabs to be stored longer, they must be boiled in sea water.
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When on the way back at the airport I saw what they sell crabs for and counted how many rubles I ate in those 10 days, I already felt sick. It was possible to buy a supported foreign car for this money.
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Although the Arkhangelsk people showed us a way to fish for crabs, it was an impossible dream for us Uralians. Bring things like this with you.
By the way, sometimes, but very rarely and only when they come to Rybachy good people, then the peninsula becomes warm, so much so that you can sunbathe and dive into the sea. What we were doing.
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It was so hot that only watermelons and cooled. Like this watermelon eater.
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We swam in the northernmost mainland of Russia near the coast of the Arctic Ocean. Since there were no women within a radius of a hundred kilometers, they bathed without bathing suits.
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The sea water was very clear! All the fish in it off the coast was visible despite the fact that fish and crabs relieve their need here, not counting the whale.
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On Rybachy the weather is extremely changeable. Then, as it should be in the northern part of Russia, it is windy, cold, rains with snow, then the sun with heavy wind and rain.
Which is what we experienced. A heavy wind instantly tore off the tent of the fishermen, though I don’t remember where they came from to drink vodka on the peninsula.
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It turned out that the sea here ebbs and flows back every day at the same time, no matter what the weather is like outside.
A wave from the sea instantly flooded the rubber boats. Then a lot of people could not drag their shore.
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In the photo is the caretaker of the Izhevsk group. The cruelest person. He always looked into the distance and commanded: "Bring a ton of fish here, take a ton of crabs there! .."
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For the slightest disobedience, he nearly tore my friend to pieces.
Just kidding, staged footage. kindest person
45.
Some Izhevsk guys picked cloudberries and cooked jam in the camp. What do you say, well done, prudently brought sugar and dishes with them.
And cloudberries were very tasty and sweet with sourness.
46.
47.
I wonder how all this junk in the photo fit in one car, as well as four healthy men and another nasty dog. Otherwise, it is expensive for everyone to drive their own car to such a distance. And still ditch the car on these roads.
48.
The only houses on the peninsula built over the past 20 years for tourists. Toilet outside. Wash in the sea .. The conditions are slightly better than in a tent.
49.
But in my tent, although the mess is constant all the time, it is cozy and warm ...
Because its own!!!
50.
The peninsulas for the USSR during the war with the Germans were important in defense. Then the defense of Rybachy, Sredny was built in such a way as to repel attacks from the sea. From the shores, our troops controlled the movements of the German fleet in the Barents Sea and did not allow them to reach Murmansk.
And now various kinds of structures were visible at every meter, if you look closely.
Unexploded anti-submarine bombing boats on the shores of the Barents Sea.
51.
Classic technical solutions.
52.
It is not clear the purpose of this nail, 4-5 cm thick, pierced into the stone. Probably from the time of the Vikings.
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It is for this reason that the peninsulas have truly become a historical museum territory.
On the road to Zubovka, in the most continental northern region of Russia, on the side of the roads, our "guide" showed rock paintings of the Stone Age.
Who in those centuries drew in these harsh lands, Finns, Russians or Norwegians, did not figure it out.
55.
Vikings (Norwegians) used to live on the peninsulas, and they left their cultural mark in the form of the ruins of trading posts, mounds of graves.
56.
A fresh and boldly uncultured trace was left by our military in the form of destroyed structures.
Norwegians at home, even further north than the peninsula, have created heavenly conditions for life. They became one of the lucky ones in the world.
In the meantime, there are only frightening ruins around on the peninsulas.
57.
But off the coast, here and there, submarines ..
59.
He left Rybachy with a complete frustration, but with intentions to return here someday.
I would like to return, but not in a jeep with a trailer. Stay in a cozy hotel, catch fish without fear of being a poacher, eat crabs, travel around the peninsula, go to your room in the evening, look out the window at the cold winds, wrap yourself in a blanket and sleep until dawn.
60.
Can the Vikings or the Finns give the peninsulas for rent? And we, on account of offsetting, come for a couple of weeks for free to relax in a human way?
Surely there will be inaccuracies in the story, so correct it.
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I am sure that all of you, well, or almost all of you, have heard about this place at least once, but perhaps did not attach any importance to this. Remember the line from the song "Rybachy melted in the distant fog ..."? So this is what they say about him - about the Rybachy peninsula, covered with eternal glory, located in the very north of the European part of Russia
I have been to the Kola Peninsula many times. But all these trips were in autumn, winter or spring. It was impossible to go there in the summer. But - I wanted to. And not just in summer, but always on a polar day, when the sun does not go down below the horizon. And now the trip planned a few months ago seems to be taking shape - and proven friends are ready to keep company, and there is a suitable car, and the boss does not mind. Let's go! Our goal is the Rybachy Peninsula.
The Rybachy Peninsula is the northernmost part of European Russia. This is a border area, so to visit it, you need to issue passes at the Murmansk border detachment or at the FSB Directorate for the Murmansk region - the procedure is simple, but can take up to a month to wait.
TITOVKA
We got out of Murmansk only in the late afternoon - buying food, fuel, packing luggage and canisters took almost half a day. We flew about a hundred kilometers along the asphalt and behind the border control post, crossed the Titovka River over the bridge, turned right off the road - the journey began! There are four of us - Vladimir Kondratiev from Murmansk, Alexander and Evgeny Zarodov (father and son), as well as the author of these notes. Transport units - prepared for the trophy "UAZ" on the "collective farm" bridges and 500 cc ATV Polaris.
We move along Titovka. The history of the name of this river and the bay of the same name in the Motovsky Bay goes back to the 16th century, however, then it was called Kitovka because of the mass release of whales onto land. In ancient times, Sredny and Rybachy were islands and there was a “whale crossing” between them and the mainland. Over time, the land rose, but the age-old instincts of the animals remained.
The exact purpose of these seid stones in the Saami culture is still not clear. Whether they served as landmarks in the desert tundra, or were used as religious attributes
Soon we stopped on the shore to the parking lot. We had a bite, admired the completely shameless ducks stealing our bread, and drove on - there is nothing to waste precious time sleeping. Light after all, a polar day!
PASS
The only road with big land monks of the Pechenga monastery were also building on Rybachy for their horse carts. Then, after the Soviet sappers, in 1940, the first tank passed through it. During the war, it was occupied by the Germans - until now, fortifications and barbed wire are everywhere around. And left and right, under the slopes, the remains of equipment are lying around, serving as a sobering factor for any driver. The road is tricky - winding turns, then rises, then descends from hill to hill. I can imagine how hard it is here in winter in ice or blizzard. It’s not for nothing that, probably, since the war times, the stream before the ascent is called Drunk - here it was supposed to pass a glass for good luck, and on the descent Sober - in order to drink cold water and rest, wiping sweat from your forehead ... Around the amazing beauty of northern landscapes with saucers of lakes looking into the sky between the hills covered with soft moss and reflected in the water with some unreal green color. True, having barely descended from the pass, we found ourselves under low dense clouds and a fine, sluggish rain, which later accompanied us throughout the trip.
HISTORY LESSONS
We go around the Motovsky Bay. To the east goes the legendary Musta-Tunturi - a four-kilometer ridge, the only section where German troops could not cross our land border. From June 29, 1941 until the end of the war, the front line here remained unchanged! But the names of all the dead defenders of Musta-Tunturi are still unknown. Every year, searchers pick up and rebury their remains. But to the right of the road is the camp of one of these teams. Despite the early morning, the attendants are on their feet, water in the cauldron gurgles on the fire. They invite you to sit down, treat you with tea, show you your find yesterday - a military-style flask with the surname of a soldier scrawled on it. We get acquainted with the leaders of the group - Alexander and Ksenia. They are from Nikel, they have been working with schoolchildren here for more than a year. The city administration supports - allocates tents, equipment. Yes, such history lessons will be remembered by the guys for a lifetime!
STRICTLY NORTH
We skip Big Lake - the former garrison of anti-aircraft gunners, almost a city. In 1959, an air defense regiment with a missile system was transferred here from Tallinn, the same one from which a U-2 spy plane was shot down near Sverdlovsk a year later. And in the fall of 1994, the last residents left the village.
The vector of our further route points strictly to the north along the Bolshaya Volokovaya Bay. We drive along the coast, breathing in the real Arctic wind at the stops. Even inclement weather does not spoil the joyful mood from the anticipation of meeting with the peak point of the trip. And that's all, they've arrived! Vaidaguba, German Cape - only the Arctic Ocean and the North Pole are farther! Historians believe that people have lived here since the Stone Age. In the 16th century, merchant ships moored on Vaida (translated from Finnish as “change”), trade was carried out. German is usually interpreted as "foreign". It seems that everything is mixed up on this small piece: the ruins of an old pier and a monument to the defenders of the Fatherland, a Sami well and a completely modern weather station, stones with mysterious signs and ... a solar-powered payphone.
DESERT COASTS
We collect water from an ancient well in an eggplant and head to Cape Skorbeevsky. Another Cold War legacy, another abandoned garrison. An eerie sight...
We spend the night near the waterfall on Zubovka. I can’t even believe that earlier these lands were so populated that the Dutch traveler, enveloping Rybachy by the sea in 1594, seemed to be alone big city- there were so many buildings on the shore.
SECRET PLANS
It's time to reveal a little secret here. In addition to the usual desire to visit Rybachy, I had one more goal. Now that the “secrecy stamp has been lifted” and the system for issuing passes to the border zone has been worked out, it is a real pilgrimage here in the summer. Jeepers, motorcyclists, cyclists, walkers… But almost everyone travels along the same route in the central and northwestern parts of the peninsula. There are even firms that specialize in off-road tourism, taking clients to predetermined points, almost like along the Golden Ring, only with planned adventures in the form of fords and destroyed bridges. But nowhere did I find any mention of their visit to the eastern part of Rybachy. Even in Google Earth, this area is hidden for some reason by a veil of "illegibility". So let it be "our little edge of the Earth"!
Roads in the tundra are unpredictable. This is hardly vehicle someday he will ride - his destiny is to become the prey of "metal hunters"
BPM
Leaving the Zubov Bay, we rush to the east, towards Tsyp-Navolok, along the rocky coast of the sea. After a couple of kilometers we see smooth sandy surfaces and the remains of many fortifications - during the war there was an alternate airfield. And soon we find ourselves on the VRM. This abbreviation is deciphered both as “Let's drink, guys,“ Moskovskaya ”, and as“ The patrimony of meteorological fishermen ”, and as“ Here are the ruins of the lighthouse. The latest version is now the most correct - since 1953 there was a fan radio beacon (BRM). According to the signals sent by him, warships were guided and cargo ships. Some analogue of the modern GPS system. In 1979, the outdated design of the lighthouse was replaced by a new one, but soon no one needed it. From the former genius of human thought, in addition to the ruins of a two-story building, auxiliary and outbuildings a few 75-meter towers remained, placed for almost five kilometers along the sea.
CHICK-PILLOW
We entered Tsyp-Navolok after midnight. As expected at this time of day, normal people were already asleep. We stopped in the center of the village near the lighthouse, looked around. Nobody. Only a couple of dogs run around the car and beg, barking softly. We notice that a door opens in a house nearby and a figure of a young guy in a shirt and camouflage pants appears on the threshold. The building is located behind a low fence and a gate with a star. Let's go and say hello. It is difficult to talk, because the cold, almost icy wind almost knocks you down. Visiting guests are rare here, so the conversation is quite official: “Who are they, where from, why, do you have passes to the closed zone?” We are at a military facility where civilians are not supposed to be. Zhenya is jokingly interested in the presence of a store or a stall in the village, which immediately defuses the tense situation - we are invited to the house to drink tea. I have never eaten such delicious bread that sailors bake in Tsyp-Navolok! Better than any croissants! Andrei is a midshipman-contractor and has been serving here for several years. He grumbles that they pay little, but is not going to leave yet: “I feel at home here, and who will teach these young people? All the same, it rests on the midshipmen. ” Although most of the strength of 27 years, no more. And the philosopher: “What is there to do in winter besides work? I’m writing poetry out of boredom - last year I wrote the whole notebook!” And after tea, he gives us a real apartment for the night with six almost closely standing soldiers' beds and a stove.
VISIT MIHALYCH
The usual drizzle is pouring from the sky, and sleeping under a warm roof, and not in a wet tent, is the height of bliss. Therefore, the morning begins closer to dinner and ... with one more check - this midshipman dropped in and said that we should show up with documents at the outpost. The border guards in these parts own all the functions of power - from the priority for the protection of borders to the police and "fish supervision". While we were washing and getting ready, the head of the garrison himself visited us. A serious mustachioed officer meticulously studied the papers, but after looking at the "calling card" - a magazine with material about our March trip to Cape Svyatoi Nos, his eyes softened and the tips of his mustache crawled up - everything is fine, his own! It's time to sit down at the table together, because besides getting to know each other, there is another reason - the most important, perhaps, in this situation - today is Navy Day! After a small buffet, Andrey Mikhailovich proudly showed his farm. Behind the shabby facade of an outwardly unsightly barracks, it turns out that there is a completely modern building with all the amenities and with a European-style renovation. There is a sauna and a la swimming pool on the street. It is difficult to imagine with what difficulty all this was built and delivered along the “roads” on which the military “Ural” “takes off” three wheels per trip, and the same VRM masts serve as landmarks in winter. But nevertheless people live and work. On the territory of the village there is a weather station, founded already in 1921, a functioning lighthouse, from which we have an amazing view of the stormy Barents Sea, Anikievsky Island (oh, the weather would be better!) And the deserted coast for many, many kilometers around. But even at the beginning of the last century, there was a fishing post of the Savin brothers, the largest buyers of fish in Murman, there were houses of the colonists, a church and even a Red Cross hospital.
STONE CHRONICLE
Weather conditions did not allow us to get to Anikievsky Island. Here is what is written about him in the Guide to the Russian North, published in 1898: “During the stop of the steamer in Tsyp-Navolok, it is curious to visit the Anikeev island lying near it, one of the plates of which is a stone chronicle of Murman. It is all carefully and beautifully covered… with carved names of Danish, German and Dutch skippers who came to Murman for fish in the 16th, 17th and XVIII centuries. The inscriptions are especially beautiful: Berent Gundersen 1595, 1596, 1597, 1610, 1611, 1615 blef jeg frataget skif (“they took away my ship”). Below, under the inscription, a warrior is depicted ... "And even further:" The Russian inscription carved in a curly letter is beautiful and interesting: Summer 7158 (according to the new chronology, this is 1650. - Approx. ed.) Grishka Dudin grieved. And the expedition of M. Oreshty in 1995 discovered even an earlier Pomeranian autograph: “Shurechanin Vasily Malashov was standing in 1630.”
ON THE BACK WAY
Almost a day spent in Tsyp-Navolok flew by unnoticed. In two days we definitely had to return to Murmansk. We say goodbye to the hospitable hosts and, as usual at night, we start. Although what kind of night it is, rather a light twilight.
If you look at the map, then there are several roads leading to Ozerok - the nodal "crossroad" of Rybachy. We choose the shortest, but, as it turns out later, the most difficult - "Zubovsky tract". He goes through the mountains among the tundra swamps flooded with multi-day rains. Puddles, often as deep as the hood of a lifted UAZ on 35 wheels, come across every 50-100 meters. And stones, stones, stones! The speed of advance is about 3-5 km / h. It is sometimes even easier to ride a quadric, as you can go around obstacles along the edge, but the wind and rain make it a very difficult walk.
STONE GIANTS
After 12 hours of non-stop travel, the loop along Rybachy closed, and we went down to Sredny. Now the direction of movement is counterclockwise. From Cape Zemlyanoy we drive along the western coast along a long 30-meter cliff, made of the thinnest slate plates, through which many small springs make their way. The famous "Two Brothers" are gigantic remnants. Some kind of mysticism is blowing here - it is not without reason that the Sami have since ancient times considered Mount Pummanki to be the habitat of sorcerers (noids). According to legend, two of them - the brothers Noid-Ukko and Noid-Akka - were punished for their atrocities and turned into these stone statues.
38 STARS
A little further on the high bank we meet a practically untouched coastal battery of the 1950s (judging by the nameplate on the gun, it was made in 1946). Multi-level system of moves, mechanisms in lubrication. During the war, the 221st battery was also based here, which destroyed a German minesweeper on June 22, 1941 and thereby opened the combat account of the USSR Navy. The barrel from one of her guns with 38 stars (according to the number of enemy ships sunk) now lies in a ship cemetery about four kilometers from this place.
GLORY TO THE HEROES!
We spend the last night on this trip at the exit from Sredny, on the bank of the river under the Musta-Tunturi ridge. Sanya Zarodov tells how, while still a schoolboy, he participated in the installation of the first obelisk on it. Carried sand upstairs in a backpack for the foundation of the monument. Suddenly, our camp is illuminated by the sun peeping out of the clouds - in a week we have already weaned from it. We look at the brightened mountains and somehow automatically begin to discuss the route of the next trip to the North. Severe beauty, the attraction of the North, the end of the Earth - seemingly banal phrases, but ... oddly enough, very honest and appropriate here.
"Two brothers", who were worshiped and feared by the Saami, considering them to be petrified evil sorcerers. Now, at the base of the northern remnant, a geocache cache is hidden
The song of the war years “Farewell, Rocky Mountains” was heard by many, and some, perhaps, even remember the words of this song, which mentions the Rybachy Peninsula, melting in the distant fog. But at the same time, few people thought: where is this land? It is located in the very north of the Arctic Circle, 150 km from regional center Murmansk. And the German Cape, located on the peninsula, is the northernmost geographical point of the mainland of the European territory.
History of the peninsula
In this harsh but beautiful place, located on the shore and Motovsky Bay, people began to settle a long time ago. The name of the Rybachy Peninsula, according to surviving documents, was given back in the 16th century. And indeed, in the waters surrounding the peninsula, which do not freeze all year round thanks to the North Cape current, Pomors have been fishing since ancient times (herring, capelin, cod, etc.). The peninsula began to belong to the Russian Empire in 1826, when the state border with Norway was finally established. After the 1917 revolution, the western part of the island went to Finland, which was later annexed to the USSR after
During the Great Patriotic War, the Soviet Arctic became the scene of fierce battles between Soviet troops and Wehrmacht troops. The German command attached great importance to the capture of the Kola Peninsula, rich in nickel deposits, and planned to capture Murmansk, the main base of the Northern Fleet, as soon as possible, but these plans were not destined to come true. The Rybachy Peninsula stood in the way of the invaders, which is the most important strategic point from which the entrance to the Pechenga, Kola and Motovsky bays was controlled. Rybachy remained for them an unsinkable battleship, which played a decisive role in protecting the northern borders of our Motherland.
At the end of the war, Soviet military garrisons were located on the Rybachy Peninsula, located almost on the very border with Norway, and entry into its territory was limited. Currently, most of the garrisons are closed, and almost everyone can get there.
Peninsula today
The Rybachy Peninsula, whose map is replete with bays and bays, rivers and lakes, has become a place of pilgrimage for ecotourism lovers. Fans of off-road racing and fans of extreme diving come here not only from Russia, but also from other countries.
Also, many representatives of youth patriotic clubs arrive on the Rybachy Peninsula in the summer season to visit the places of bloody battles of the Second World War and maintain the monuments to the fallen soldiers in proper condition.
This is really the real End of the Earth - further only the boundless expanses of the Arctic Ocean, against which everyone arriving here is sure to take memorable photos. The Rybachy Peninsula and the Sredny Peninsula adjacent to it are also attractive because here you can most often observe here. It is not without reason that the longest polar nights on the mainland (42 days) and (59 days) are here.
It consists of two parts, the Rybachy Peninsula itself and the Sredny Peninsula. They are connected by an isthmus, the length of which reaches about 1 km. These peninsulas are connected to the mainland by another isthmus, which is about 2 km long. The length of the Rybachy Peninsula from Cape Gordeev to Cape Nemecki is about 60 km, the width at the northwestern end reaches up to 10 km, and at the southeastern end up to 25 km.
The shores of the peninsula consist of black slate rocks, above which low hills and mountains are located inside the peninsula, partially covered with grass. Along the banks of the rivers and in the valleys between the hills are partly, partly dry with good grass. Also here are small copses of birch, willow and other shrubs.
There are many lakes in the northern part of the peninsula. Of the latter, the most significant lake is Bezymyannoye, the length of which reaches up to 10 kilometers, and the width is up to 1 kilometer. The Mainavolok River flows out of it, the length of which is up to 10 km. Of the other rivers on the Rybachy Peninsula, there are the Zubova (about 13 km long), Olenka (about 12 km), the source of Lake Olenka and other water bodies.
The peninsula has a large number of different bays and coves. Although few of them can serve as safe havens for ships. Starting from the south-west, there are bays: Malaya Volokovaya, Bolshaya Volokovaya, on the north-western coast - Vaida Bay. On the northeastern part of the peninsula there are bays: Skarbeeva, Zubova, Mainavolotskaya, on the eastern coast of the bay: Tsyp-Navolok, Korabelnaya, Anikieva and Sergeeva.
On south coast The fishing peninsula has a vast Mitavsky Bay with the bays of Eina, Mocha, Motka and the harbor of Novaya Zemlya; on the southwestern coast there is Kutovaya Bay. Of the capes, the most famous are: Cape Gordeev, located on the southeastern tip of the peninsula, capes Sharapov, Bashenka and Sergeev, located on the eastern coast. On the northeastern part of the peninsula there are capes Tsyp-Navolok and Lavysh, Lok, Lazar, Mainavolok, Skorbeev; in the northwestern region - capes Kekur and German; on the western part of the peninsula is Zemlyanoy Cape and some others.
The highest points of the peninsula are located on capes: Gordeev, Kekur and Gremyashchinskaya buttermilk (its height reaches about 1450 m above sea level). Other capes have a height of 900 to 1800 m. The northeastern coast of the peninsula is low. The northwestern shore is elevated and in some places reaches 6000 m. Beyond the Bolshaya Volokova Bay, the shores again become sloping. The middle peninsula approaches the fiord with tundra shoals.
The fishing peninsula was formerly inhabited by the Lapps (the population of the Finnish tribe). Since 1865, colonies of free settlers began to settle here, mainly Finnish and from the western coast of Varangerfjord and Norwegian Finmarken. These peoples passed into Russian citizenship, but economically gravitated towards their former homeland. The Rybatsky and Sredny peninsulas constituted the Fishing Rural Society. Lapps almost all migrated from the peninsula to the mainland. Russians (up to 600 people) came here only in the summer, for fishing, in some fishing camps, for example: Vaida-guba, Zubovo and Tsyp-Navolok.
Then both Norwegian and Finnish colonies settled down well. Many of them prospered thanks to fishing, cattle breeding, trade and other crafts. In total, there were about 9 colonies on the Rybachy Peninsula. They numbered about 500 inhabitants. On the Rybachy Peninsula in the colony of Vaida Bay, which is considered one of the main places in Murmansk in terms of the abundance of cod fishing, from 400 to 500 thousand kg were caught per year. The colonists had up to 100 fishing vessels, on which they harvest up to 1130 thousand kg of marine fish and up to 80 thousand kg of fish oil. On the same ships they traded with the Norwegian towns of Varangerfjord.
In the second half of the 19th century, the famous thinker Nikolai Fedorovich (he was Tsiolkovsky's teacher) proposed to found the capitals of Russia on the territory of the Rybachy Peninsula. After the revolution at the beginning of the 20th century, the territories of the western zone of the Rybachy Peninsula and the Middle Peninsula began to belong. In 1940, after the Soviet-Finnish war, these territories were again returned to our country.
On the territory of the Rybachy Peninsula there are deposits of hydrocarbons, oil and. In the 70s of the last century, searches were carried out here, but as a result of insufficient research, these searches were unsuccessful. In 1994, seismic surveys were made on the peninsula, which revealed oil deposits. Oil deposits are located from the peninsula into the sea. The expanses of Rybachy and Sredny are used for deer grazing.
A feature of the waters washed by the shores of the Rybachy Peninsula is that they do not freeze even in winter. The rise in water here is influenced by the North Cape. At present, following the results of the expedition of scientists to the territory of the Rybachy Peninsula, it was decided to make protected areas here in order to preserve the fauna of these places.
